How to block off the oil injection thing

I did heat cycles but never re tightened. They weren't that lose I only got like half a turn until it went all the way down... The gaskets are like a Goldish volor
 
Stock base gasket yamaha is metal. And yes, an air leak through the head gasket or cylinder base gasket, WILL cause a problem, 20 ft lbs on the head and 18ft lbs on the base.
 
If they were loose enough for fluid to get out, they were certainly loose enough for air to get in!

180 deg of rotation on a bolt, is way too loose.

Cylinder head 20 ft lbs

Jug 18 ft lbs.

Torque them down.

Do a leak down test,

Then, and only then, report back with your findings and we will advise further.:(:(:(
 
Sounds to me like your problem is almost solved.Carbs got a good cleanin and good job noticing the air leak.
 
I went ahead and did some extensive reading on break in with oil injection.Allthough it is not listed in the owners manual itself it is listed in every other machine from watercraft,Snow mobiles,atv,and so on running oil injection.And they all state to premix 50:1 in the first tank of gas for beak in(only use injection suitable oil)I have also read that when these bikes are purchased new they premix the tank as well from the dealership.A lot of people even add a little to there premix with out oil injection for break in.Point beeing its not going to blow your motor.All its going to do is foul the plug and not run.Enrichening the oil mixture so we dont get confuesed on leaning or enrichening the fuel as yes this does change the afr but there is more oil to add to the cooling one tank for break in only.There are a lot of variables with that in which I have been sevearly bashed for it.Its an argument even outside the thread.Its all theory.Google it is all I can say my logic is there.Sorry for the name calling but you guys should read up on it outside this thread.On how it works.From real people that do this for a living and actually build these machines.No pun intended no one has been wrong.But I do not give wrong advise.Google it.Discussion closed and membership done.
 
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On reading the links provided, I am not convinced that one should add extra oil to the tank during the breakin proceedure.

Some of it was pretty heavy reading, and if I skipped over it, I apologise and would appreciate it being brought my attention.

All but one write up stated that any changes made would require a change in jetting.

One actually stated the following!

"A new piston will run slightly hotter because it does not have any carbon to slow heat transfer into the piston, also new rings will allow some blow-by which causes the piston to run hotter. Do not add extra oil to the gas or do anything different. Extra oil changes the fuel mixture."

And another one read.

"Here are some more things to consider. Most 2-stroke, motorcycle engines have fixed carb jets. This means changing the ratios will change the air fuel mix as oil is not gas ! Change the ratios and you may need to rejet the carb."

I could find no reference from any link that recommended adding extra oil to the tank for break in, but there again some of it was heavy reading, and I may have missed it.

However, it was stated in one link.

"We have mixed extra oil in the gas for the break-in process and must verify that your oil injection is functioning before you can resume using unmixed gas in the fuel tank. If at the end of the tank of fuel, you can not verify a drop in oil level in the tank, we ask that you contact us to determine how to best proceed."

I read this as a butt covering statement.
 
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That Gordon Jennings article was very informative and cleared up a myth that I have been concerned about for a while, as I run 25:1 bean oil, that more oil causes more carbon deposits.

Gordon stated that piston cleanliness actually improves as the percentage of oil in the pre mix increases, at least in the 15:1 to 30:1 ratio range.

The 30:1 ratio produced more varnish than mixes with more oil content.

And that more oil does appreciatably increase power.