If I may add.I would try to give a complete discription of what you have done this far with getting the bike togeather(was its a shop that did head work).What kind of condition it is in and has it been sitting for a long period of time.Imo from what you have said is you had to put some new studs or something and I have this impression its been sitting for quite some time.With that info I can see where blaaster is coming from with the leak down test.May be a leaky gasket and again sounds like your going to possibly need to rebuild carb and it would not hurt to pic some reads up as well.In all honesty It would be a great help if you could post a video and a walk around of your bike then start it up.Post it to utube then copy the link to the forum.Its hard for every one to determine what is going on with out clear information on the bikes simptoms.It sounds like crap at high speed just is not enouph information.There can be many things from rich to lean to poor spark pluged air filter worn piston(piston slap)Just to many variables that make it sounds like crap.Show these guys what your dealing with and let them hear whats going on with your motor so that they can better help you.
How to block off the oil injection thing
- Thread starter Connorfab
- Start date
I'll try and get a video. It hasn't sat for more then a day. It has a clean air filter good plug and It was fine then all of sudden it went lean. I chane plugs and added a
Tab bit of oil in the tank thinking it wasnt getting oil. It sorted right up an now it's wiked rich. I drained the gas tank and put fresh gas without oil. It isnt premix just saying. I let it idle an got the idle and the air screw fixed so that when it's idling it's a little bit rich but when I start driving its snappy as hell which is normal but once I get any faster it starts bogging and just doesn't seem right.. Hope that clears things up a little bit. I'm gunna go home and clean the carb and check the piston. When the carbs off shoul I inspect the reeds?
Tab bit of oil in the tank thinking it wasnt getting oil. It sorted right up an now it's wiked rich. I drained the gas tank and put fresh gas without oil. It isnt premix just saying. I let it idle an got the idle and the air screw fixed so that when it's idling it's a little bit rich but when I start driving its snappy as hell which is normal but once I get any faster it starts bogging and just doesn't seem right.. Hope that clears things up a little bit. I'm gunna go home and clean the carb and check the piston. When the carbs off shoul I inspect the reeds?
Hmm.Yeah first check your float it may be sticking.There should be a little screw on bottom of float bowl with a tube hanging off of it for the over flow.If no tube pute one on ther that is clear so you can see the fuel.Hold the tube up next to the carb upward next to the float bowl.Crack the scew open letting fuel out and use the tube as a measuring device.The fuel in the tube should be about equal with the top of the float bowl gasket.This would be the first thing to check before going any further.If its low then yes at high speed there would not be enouph supply of fuel to feed the motor causing it to lean out.
After you check the float level as its the most common and you should always start with the easy stuff first when your doing the elimination process.If thats not it and you half to pull and clean the carb then yes imo while the carb is off inspect your reeds.What year is your blaster.
Because your float is sticking in one spot its not opening or closing the valve.In this case you know its sicking.This would be the first thing to look into.This may not cure the problem but its the first thing to fix before you go any further.
Here is a small problem, the idle must be set correctly as it affects all the circuits above it.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
.....................................................................
Take the reed block out to check the reeds and have a look at the piston as well.
The carb trick Rich is describing won't work. The float bowl vent tube does not unscrew. If you have a fitting on the bottom of your carb, or a large hex nut, those are your float bowl drains and you don't need a tube on those. If you have the stock carb, I don't think you will have either though, but I'm not 100%. My carb, which is a 28mm Mikuni, doesn't have the fitting, but has a 22mm Hex on the bottom, taking that out allows me access to the jets without messing with taking the bowl off. The only way to measure the fuel in the float bowl the way Rich is describing is to make a tool that fits that, then you loop the hose back up to the carb, fuel shouldn't be any higher than the gasket of the float bowl.
Try this http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/
When you cleaned carb did you take it COMPLETELY apart? Or just give it a quick douche with carb spray and called it clean? Are the little holes on side of pilot jet clean? Holes in emulsion tube? Blow ALL passages with compressed air?
When you cleaned carb did you take it COMPLETELY apart? Or just give it a quick douche with carb spray and called it clean? Are the little holes on side of pilot jet clean? Holes in emulsion tube? Blow ALL passages with compressed air?
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
For fuel level setting, See section 5-11.
Take note is should be done with the motor running to make sure the fuel supply is constant.
For fuel level setting, See section 5-11.
Take note is should be done with the motor running to make sure the fuel supply is constant.
It's where the crank case and the jug meet. When j got the rebuild i do remember him saying that I might have to tighten them. It was much I tighten it. And I have he metal gaskets I believe
Are you saying that you forgot to tighten the bolts after the heat cycles.
We have been through 120 posts and countless hours trying to assist, all because you forgot to tighten some bolts.
Go stand in the corner, you naughty boy!
I am not aware of any company who manufactures metal gaskets for that purpose.
If you have the green paper ones, they are bad news as well as they have been known to leak.
The head should have also been re tourqued as well.
You definatly need to leak test that thing, make it number one priority.
We have been through 120 posts and countless hours trying to assist, all because you forgot to tighten some bolts.
Go stand in the corner, you naughty boy!
I am not aware of any company who manufactures metal gaskets for that purpose.
If you have the green paper ones, they are bad news as well as they have been known to leak.
The head should have also been re tourqued as well.
You definatly need to leak test that thing, make it number one priority.
Similar threads
