Ya, definitely gear it so that you are using all your gears. That will get you the most potential out of your quad.
yamaha blaster race quad, what will make it faster??
- Thread starter ruairiyblaster
- Start date
lower the front sprocket (12t) for more low end, less top speed, but gets there quickly
raise the front sprocket (14t) for more top speed, but less torque and bottom end quickness...takes longer to get up to top speed, unless you've got the motor to support it, which you don't
you are looking for quickness off the line and out of the turns, not top speed at 300' +
believe it or not, unless your compression requires it, that race fuel may be hurting more than your wallet,
anything below about 165 psi. compression does not require anything higher than 93 octane, run the lowest octane you can that doesn't cause detonation for best results,
match the octane to your compression.
the general findings on here are....
stock blaster compression can easily run best on 89 octane
after 150ish to 165 psi should be on 93 octane
165+ - 185 psi. could use a mix of 110 and 93
anything 185+ psi. should be on a strict diet of 110+
these are just general findings, you're results may vary, plug chop, plug chop, plug chop and listen very closely for any signs of detonation
but i highly doubt you need to run straight 110 unless your compression is over 185 psi.
EDIT...i deleted my theory on octanes, and will let you do the reading and come to your own conclusion if you need to run higher octane race fuel or not..........
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/high-octane-fuel-definition-detonation-43860/
raise the front sprocket (14t) for more top speed, but less torque and bottom end quickness...takes longer to get up to top speed, unless you've got the motor to support it, which you don't
you are looking for quickness off the line and out of the turns, not top speed at 300' +
believe it or not, unless your compression requires it, that race fuel may be hurting more than your wallet,
anything below about 165 psi. compression does not require anything higher than 93 octane, run the lowest octane you can that doesn't cause detonation for best results,
match the octane to your compression.
the general findings on here are....
stock blaster compression can easily run best on 89 octane
after 150ish to 165 psi should be on 93 octane
165+ - 185 psi. could use a mix of 110 and 93
anything 185+ psi. should be on a strict diet of 110+
these are just general findings, you're results may vary, plug chop, plug chop, plug chop and listen very closely for any signs of detonation
but i highly doubt you need to run straight 110 unless your compression is over 185 psi.
EDIT...i deleted my theory on octanes, and will let you do the reading and come to your own conclusion if you need to run higher octane race fuel or not..........
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/high-octane-fuel-definition-detonation-43860/
Last edited:
Go for the 12 front, putting a 15 on and you will never get out of 4th.
With a 12 you still have 6th gear to get the speed you need.
It's around 165 and I am putting a wiseco piston in and giving it a hone within the next month, ( end of the racing season ). And I'll get the 12 what about this .
Yamaha Blaster 200, 1997 1998 1999 2000, 12 Tooth More Power Front Sprocket | eBay
Or
FRONT SPROCKET YAMAHA BLASTER 12T 12 TOOTH ALL YEAR NEW | eBay
Yamaha Blaster 200, 1997 1998 1999 2000, 12 Tooth More Power Front Sprocket | eBay
Or
FRONT SPROCKET YAMAHA BLASTER 12T 12 TOOTH ALL YEAR NEW | eBay
Last edited by a moderator:
either of those sprockets will work, and ecatv and sledpartsguy are both on my list of top sellers on ebay.
165 psi requires no more than 93 octane, thats what i run, mixed 32:1 with maxima super M
i'd lose that castrol stuff, unless thats all thats available and move on to a good race oil...maxima, klotz or amsoil
165 psi requires no more than 93 octane, thats what i run, mixed 32:1 with maxima super M
i'd lose that castrol stuff, unless thats all thats available and move on to a good race oil...maxima, klotz or amsoil
I'm over in Ireland and the castrol is considered the best all the riders use and my bike has been run on the same oil since it left the showroom, apart from one miner change when castrol TTS was discontinued I moved to castrol power one racing.
I'm not sure if use even have them oils just don't want to change what its always been run on I'm the second owner and I knew the 1st owner it's never blew up so I think I'll stick to the castrol.
But thank you for the other advice the I've just ordered the 12 sprocket and the coil anyone tried this?
AMR RACING PERFORMANCE MONSTER IGNITION COIL- YAMAHA BLASTER 200 UPGRADE PART | eBay
I'm not sure if use even have them oils just don't want to change what its always been run on I'm the second owner and I knew the 1st owner it's never blew up so I think I'll stick to the castrol.
But thank you for the other advice the I've just ordered the 12 sprocket and the coil anyone tried this?
AMR RACING PERFORMANCE MONSTER IGNITION COIL- YAMAHA BLASTER 200 UPGRADE PART | eBay
Last edited by a moderator:
Tyre size and tread pattern also play a major role in the get up and go senario.
Contrary to public belief, shooting a great roost of dirt out the back on acceleration does not mean you are getting all the available power to forward motion.
Although earthworks look impressive they are not always productive.
Tyres should be chosen to suit the surface to be ridden, and to promote maxiimum traction.
If the tyres are throwing a large amount of dirt out the back, power is being put into earthmoving not forward motion.
The idea is to grab as much terrain with the rubber as possible, and by careful use of the throttle, control maximum forward movement with minimum earth works.
Spinning tyres are slipping tyres
Contrary to public belief, shooting a great roost of dirt out the back on acceleration does not mean you are getting all the available power to forward motion.
Although earthworks look impressive they are not always productive.
Tyres should be chosen to suit the surface to be ridden, and to promote maxiimum traction.
If the tyres are throwing a large amount of dirt out the back, power is being put into earthmoving not forward motion.
The idea is to grab as much terrain with the rubber as possible, and by careful use of the throttle, control maximum forward movement with minimum earth works.
Spinning tyres are slipping tyres
mannn..... this wont help you atall.... its a replacement coil that says amr monster racing. is no upgrade its probobly cheaper then a factory coil.....
liston to the boys here if you are racing on an mx track you wont need a 15t sprocket. i recommend the factory 13/40 gearing, 12t might be abit too short the guys on the track with stock gearing be spankin ya.
to make more power you need to optimize your head squish and chamber, porting or anything along those lines. checking this all is a great idea aswell as to you have no idea whats into ur motor onless you check. Have you checked your cylinder head to see if it actually is rechambered?? aswell what sorta work is done to your ports???
Last edited by a moderator:
Im runnnig on turf tamer tyres, after that it will be goldspeeds.
Ive checked the porting, in the intake port it has a hole drilled at each side which i think you guys call a boyeson port?
The rest are done to I have the full spec here but dont really understand it the guys not bullsh*tting hes the best boy in the country without getting it shipped over to us, heres the spec;
Ill just use ' as a degress sign because that symbol isnt on my keyboard
Decked 0.0095"
transfer ports; open 44.80mm atdc = 124.0' Duration
Boost port open 45.2mm atdc = 119'0' atdc 122'0' duration
Exhaust port opens 30mm atdc= 85.5' atdc 189' duration
Cylinder head 0.0045''
Squish clearance 0.0035''
Squish angle 15' / 18'
Squish area ( 50%-15')
Volume 16.3cc to top of plus hole, 14.7cc under plus
Compression ratio 14.26-1
Trapped compression ratio 7.98-1
Jet 250 start and work down
Most of that mayaswell be a different language to me but maybe use will understand it?
Ive checked the porting, in the intake port it has a hole drilled at each side which i think you guys call a boyeson port?
The rest are done to I have the full spec here but dont really understand it the guys not bullsh*tting hes the best boy in the country without getting it shipped over to us, heres the spec;
Ill just use ' as a degress sign because that symbol isnt on my keyboard
Decked 0.0095"
transfer ports; open 44.80mm atdc = 124.0' Duration
Boost port open 45.2mm atdc = 119'0' atdc 122'0' duration
Exhaust port opens 30mm atdc= 85.5' atdc 189' duration
Cylinder head 0.0045''
Squish clearance 0.0035''
Squish angle 15' / 18'
Squish area ( 50%-15')
Volume 16.3cc to top of plus hole, 14.7cc under plus
Compression ratio 14.26-1
Trapped compression ratio 7.98-1
Jet 250 start and work down
Most of that mayaswell be a different language to me but maybe use will understand it?
Last edited:
OK, I see some problems.
Squish angle should be 11' not 15'(which is stock, not good)
Volume should be 18-22cc, 16.3 sounds like a stock planed head.
Squish clearance should be 0.035" or larger, so I hope that is a typo.
Here are examples of rechambered heads, note the bowl shapes:
The head on the right is the stock chamber, just shaving it closer for more compression is not a good thing to do. You have to rechamber the bowl.
Forget the DT200 gearbox, It is sh*te. Blaster gears are fine.
Now the DT200 top end is a different story...
But you can duplicate it with a re-chamber and raised exhaust port.
You can surpass it with a stuffed intake and torroidal head chamber and a bit of exhaust work.
All on the stock carb.
Listen to these guys, I heard all good advice, go smaller front sprocket, go heavier oil mixture and a caster (not just Castrol) mix. Use a thin oil in the gearbox, like a synthetic ATF. Use a thin grease or oil in the rear carrier with the inner seals removed. Use a non-"O"ring chain lubed and set up loose before every race. Play with different basegasket thicknesses to adjust the powerband. Thicker = high and peaky, thinner or none = lowend torque but no revs. Stuff your intake. It ain't pretty but it gave her a pile of guts:
The port on the right is epoxy ADDED, not metal cut away.
If it doesn't launch the front end up into the air HARD, you ain't making power or putting it to the ground.
It should spin or lift in the first three gear or you are not making power.
If it spins, you need better tires.
You can't get .035" squish with a stock stroke engine unless the head has material sticking down into the cylinder, there's no base gasket, or the top of the cylinder has been decked.
He told you to start on a 250 main but this has no performance parts to speak of? Does it retain the stock airbox lid?
Maybe there's a stroker in it there's a picture of my crank in my albums, I'm not really sure what mores done to it all I know is it's a very fast blaster, beats my friends which has an fmf and proper jetting.
My air box is drilled and there's a half inch gap around the top of the box.
My air box is drilled and there's a half inch gap around the top of the box.
If it doesn't launch the front end up into the air HARD, you ain't making power or putting it to the ground.
It should spin or lift in the first three gear or you are not making power.
If it spins, you need better tires.[/QUOTE]
In 3rd gear it would throw you straight of the back with a good rev
It should spin or lift in the first three gear or you are not making power.
If it spins, you need better tires.[/QUOTE]
In 3rd gear it would throw you straight of the back with a good rev
Ruairiyblaster,
You got some pictures of your mean machine ?
I have some comments and thoughts here. While I know less than many on here, in regards to mods to the blaster and how they will perform.
I wanted to share a story of my cousins son, who races a blaster, racing here in Illinois.
His blaster is stock, except for a fmf pipe and silencer and a different main jet. Still runs oil injection, A good set of tires.
Now I know you class does not allow some of those mods, but sounds like, you really have allot more mods than he does.
He is able to place 1st or 2nd or 3rd on a regular basis around here. And he races against faster and better quads.
Many say, he knows when to change gears, how to handle the quad thru the turns. When to punch it and when not to.
How are you placing in the races ?
And I hope not to agitate you none, but perhaps the key might be, improving you're timing, on when you shift or accelerate, ect.
I watched (chase) ride a little bit the other day. And what is interesting, Is they he keeps that atv ready for the power band sweet spot almost all the time, he manages to keep it throttled all the time. but I dont mean wide open.
Im not a racer, so Im trying my best to convey this, Any jump, or shift, anytme hes pulling in that clutch, hes lightly thumping the throttle, it sounds like hes revving it up all the time lightly. to keep it right at the sweat spot on the power band.
Now, since I am no racer, Maybe this is common for all riders, I dont really know, this may be nothing new.
So, I hope this tid bit is not a waisted read.
Sporty
You got some pictures of your mean machine ?
I have some comments and thoughts here. While I know less than many on here, in regards to mods to the blaster and how they will perform.
I wanted to share a story of my cousins son, who races a blaster, racing here in Illinois.
His blaster is stock, except for a fmf pipe and silencer and a different main jet. Still runs oil injection, A good set of tires.
Now I know you class does not allow some of those mods, but sounds like, you really have allot more mods than he does.
He is able to place 1st or 2nd or 3rd on a regular basis around here. And he races against faster and better quads.
Many say, he knows when to change gears, how to handle the quad thru the turns. When to punch it and when not to.
How are you placing in the races ?
And I hope not to agitate you none, but perhaps the key might be, improving you're timing, on when you shift or accelerate, ect.
I watched (chase) ride a little bit the other day. And what is interesting, Is they he keeps that atv ready for the power band sweet spot almost all the time, he manages to keep it throttled all the time. but I dont mean wide open.
Im not a racer, so Im trying my best to convey this, Any jump, or shift, anytme hes pulling in that clutch, hes lightly thumping the throttle, it sounds like hes revving it up all the time lightly. to keep it right at the sweat spot on the power band.
Now, since I am no racer, Maybe this is common for all riders, I dont really know, this may be nothing new.
So, I hope this tid bit is not a waisted read.
Sporty
Ah, good! I didn't mean any of what I said as a criticism, just trying to convey in text what 30-45 hp feels like. I suppose I could also mention my (45hp?) KTM powered Blaster will click through its gears pretty much as fast as you want to jam them and that wheelies or spin are decided by where you sit your weight on the seat. I have a 2" extension on the swingarm which has really helped to keep the front end down, especially on hills. If you are allowed this mod, a 2-4" extension really tends to help a Blaster on a track too. A good rear shock has been a benefit for high speed riding too.
With Triplecrown's Blaster engine we have been been trying to find 40hp with a full broad powerband. We have made high sharp power peaks, but they make for hard riding as you try to stay on the powerband. You have to ride like Sporty suggests, shifting and revving and dumping clutch to keep the revs up. This motor we have now is well into the 30hp range (with worn cylinder and rings!) but very full midrange like a bigger displacement engine. This is very important for a trail machine, but I think you'd like it on a racer as well. No sudden falling off powerband, less gearchanges and much better throttle response (which is pretty good with the stock carb to begin with).
I am not racing, which means there is not an immediacy to my need for speed, but I have a 45hp Blaster to compare with how we are doing on Triplecrown's engine, and since I am not racing or selling anything have no motive to keep what I learn secret.
In our future:
To increase max power we are looking at opening up the intake and exhaust port window area, may raise exhaust to raise rpm too, but this is a balancing act.
To broaden midrange without killing top end power will look at dividing the intake tract and stuffing the carb side of the reed block ala KTM.
Hey, you got any pictures?
They got a rule around here, if you can't show us a picture...
Steve
Last edited:
Yeah there is pics in my albums I'll try get a link now
And I know even if I have the fast blaster there and I can't ride it I won't win, but I have until next February to practise so a fast bike+lots of practise should help start winning.
And I know even if I have the fast blaster there and I can't ride it I won't win, but I have until next February to practise so a fast bike+lots of practise should help start winning.
When you go into a burn how do you hit it do you use your weight to throw the bike somewhat into the turn? Quadrider10 kinda throws the bike with his weight sothebike kind cocks sideways into the turn and keeps it tapped out in thepowerbad witch is like wat sporty said that power band staying in helps more than most people think when it hits coming outa turn your bike gets more of a dig than on bottom unless you bikes geared like a tractor and pulls on bottom end like its gonna jerk your arms out of socket. Try gearing down and what size rear tires are you running? I run stock gearing and 18s but then again I'm running a fmf fatty that you can run and that pipes all bottom.
I am just an old guy, and I do not race, but I typically do not eat a lot of other people's dust while trail riding.
We have witnesses on this forum.
First of all, it is called a BERM. That is a low wall made by tires cutting a rut.
I'd suggest unlike anything on pavement, doing the braking you need before you hit the turn. Enter the berm at the speed you are going to carry through it in the gear you are going to leave it, transfer your weight forward through the pegs. 60% of your weight is on the inside peg,10% is on the outside peg, 20% is on the bars and 10% your thighs clamping the tank, 0% on your butt. Gas it as you enter the berm, ride the rear wheel along the berm and keep the weight on the front so you can steer. As you exit the apex transfer your weight rearward to gain traction and speed, giving up steering for traction as you shoot out of the corner. SHIFT DAMMIT, SHIFT!
We have witnesses on this forum.
First of all, it is called a BERM. That is a low wall made by tires cutting a rut.
I'd suggest unlike anything on pavement, doing the braking you need before you hit the turn. Enter the berm at the speed you are going to carry through it in the gear you are going to leave it, transfer your weight forward through the pegs. 60% of your weight is on the inside peg,10% is on the outside peg, 20% is on the bars and 10% your thighs clamping the tank, 0% on your butt. Gas it as you enter the berm, ride the rear wheel along the berm and keep the weight on the front so you can steer. As you exit the apex transfer your weight rearward to gain traction and speed, giving up steering for traction as you shoot out of the corner. SHIFT DAMMIT, SHIFT!
