When it rains it pours!

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I worked most all afternoon getting the set of cases lapped and things taken care of.

More thoughts!

The crank seals are going to be a weak point. Honestly, there's little other than rubber resistance holding against the crank pressure especially on the stator side. With what's going to be some volume of liquid going into this engine, I'm thinking some modifications will be necessary to make sure that the crank seals don't simply blow out from the pressure the first time the engine is run hard.

I'm thinking about making some strategic bosses on the inside of both seal lips (on the cases themselves) to make sure the seal bodies can't get sucked into the engine. On the clutch side there is already a plate bolted down to hold half of the seal in. I'm going to see about how much room there is to fab one up that goes all the way across and bolts into the other blind M8 hole. I believe there is enough room as long as the piece made is reasonably thin to fit under the primary drive gears.

I removed the cylinder studs two came willingly. The other two not so much but nothing some heat from a torch, some ATF, the Irwin screw extractors, and a pull bar couldn't handle. Both with a loud POP and then unscrewed right out. I believe there is enough meat in the cases to put a M10 fine thread hole in there without breaching anywhere. I'm going to do some measuring tomorrow to see...
 
Damn this this is gonna have some really crazy work done to it. Stuff that not even full out drag bikes do and seems like for alot cheaper. i like!
 
Full out drag bikes DO have this type of thing done but they're so secretive about the process they don't talk about it... more like they WON'T talk about it.
 
lol didnt know that ive always figured they had something kinda secrative about there motors becuase they almost never talk about them. Well im just glad to see someone se educated share it with every idiot like me.

Also should start a build thread about it or are you just gonna make this your build thread?
 
I'm kind of liking the whole "history of" beginning to this thread. I may just get this thread moved over to the "build" section. That's probably where it needs to be now...
 
Sounds like some serious stuff is going on in this bike. Deinately going to be taking notes for this one. Lots of good info has been divulged on this already. Much more to come it seems.

You truly are the man civic. Thanks for sharing all this info. I mean you could have showed up to busco, spanked some ass on the drag strip, then laughed your ass off for days while everyone pondered on how the hell it even happened lol.
 
I'd rathter people be impressed because of what they do know, than confused by what they don't know.

I'm in that very small group of people who is dangerous enough to attempt things but also not so peculiar I won't share and devulge. MUHAHAHA not saying I'll discover all the secrets but I'm going to work my butt off to discover what I can and share what I do run across.
 
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Look what was on my front porch after lunch!

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It comes fully assembled minus the handle, and the two guide bars.

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Out of the plastic!

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The end has thumb screw for material thickness adjustment and then another thumb screw to allow the whole end to spin around and get back out of the way of the top roll so the top roll can come up and allow materials rolled tighter than can slip off to come out the end.

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Like this:

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Just some stuff I cut out with the aviation shears real quick. Just some quick tests!

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So far far the ONLY thing I see that I don't like is a nit picky sort of thing.... the handle is taller than the base. It means you have to mount the machine on the edge of the workbench. Not a huge deal, but a minor inconvenience if shop table space is at a premium like mine is. I'm thinking I could make a small wooden base for it to raise it up OR mount to the presto lift rolly cart. Haven't made up my mind where it's going to be mounted just yet... I just know I love it!
 
It's really for this winter (I gave myself until April to have this ready to test and tune) but the majority of that time is allotted to hide most of my purchases for this from my wife.

I'm hoping to design and build a pipe using this roller that's an out of frame drag pipe. I'm then hoping to sell that pipe to some unsuspecting fool.....er..... I mean customer (MUHAHAH!) and build an in frame drag pipe using the same specifications.
 
It's gonna take a while to get the desired shapes out of the machine. I'm going to make a stop and support piece for rolling cones should make this a lot faster. I'll try to make the piece tomorrow and take pictures so everyone will understand why the stock brackets don't do a good job and what you'd need to roll a cone on a slip roll like this.

I've got a while of tinkering before I can get a whole pipe out of this thing but by the time I'm done, this machine will have made two pipes.
 
sweet. Cant wait to see this pipe all done and finished with a video possibly. I might be interested in a pipe, wether it be the trial pipe or another, I would pay pretty good for a custom pipe made by a blasty bro with such care about his blasty.
 
hey civic remember that pipe design program i showed you? might come in handy with this especially because it allows you to print cone templates, etc. its pretty slick
 
MORE thoughts!

I was talking to mmajay earlier about 520 chain. Most people who build these type of things automatically upgrade the chain out of a simple yet unjustified fear of snapping chains like swizzle sticks. The fact is that the torque of an engine isn't what breaks chains. If it was the torque of the engine that broke the chain, the chains would always break at the first link behind the front sprocket and there wouldn't be a need for case savers as the chain would only shoot straight out the bottom. What ACTUALLY breaks chains is the snapping motion of loading and unloading. Think of a moving chain as an experiment in wave motion. Each individual link is whizzing past and doesn't know the movement of the chain but as anyone who has seen a chain driven motorcycle with too loose a chain can attest to, the chain as a whole can use the random energy to travel. Usually chains "slink" in a wave motion when they're loose.... but you have to think of what causes tsunami's. Tsunami's are only a foot high or so way out in the ocean. It's the lack of available space that drive a tsunami skyward. Chains work in the same way, a loose chain is allowed to wiggle all over everywhere but there are still limits to how far the chain can wiggle before it can't go any further. That's when the "height" of the "wave" starts building until the "wave" hits one sprocket of the other and the full energy is unleashed. It's the snapping motion that breaks chains. The one exception to that rule is the masterlink. It's the weakest link in any chain because it's the one that's not welded/swaged together.

So, my plan is to run a solid suspension front and rear on this beast. The idea being that any lift that the suspension goes through is wasted energy on a drag strip.

In order to keep chains from popping like firewood, I'm going to make a chain tray for the return. Yamaha did what they could with the suspension travel the way it is from the factory.... three rollers and a feeder. I'm going to make two trays minimum along the swing arm but almost certainly do away with the rollers design.

Anyone have any thoughts on material and design of the slides?
 
sweet. Cant wait to see this pipe all done and finished with a video possibly. I might be interested in a pipe, wether it be the trial pipe or another, I would pay pretty good for a custom pipe made by a blasty bro with such care about his blasty.

Gonna be a while before we have any pics or videos but they'll be right here when I do have them.

Let me get a handle on how this thing works first. We can discuss a pipe later.

Oh geez, I see the start of a pipe making business in the future.

If it is, it'll be like the a-arms.... I'm not making a job out of it, just doing it as a hobby LOL

hey civic remember that pipe design program i showed you? might come in handy with this especially because it allows you to print cone templates, etc. its pretty slick

I actually went back and found that post and did some searching. That program is mainly for smaller displacement engines.

There is a program that is written specifically for larger engines but it's not free.

2 stroke wizard pro 3 from Exhaust Design Software Wizards The program isn't very expensive and apparently will allow you to change any parameter for the design you want, plus it has the same cone function and will even print out a paper copy of the cone shape so you can cut it without having to think about it hard. LOL Just my kind of program!
 
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