When it rains it pours!

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sicivicdude

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Apr 7, 2010
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North Carolina
I'm a glutton for punishment...

I went and looked at it a month ago but the guy wanted too much for it ($500 apparently he thought he had gold) It had snagged a ring and the top end was off of it. It's rough!

He called me back Friday at lunch (who waits a month+ to accept an offer anyway?!) and told me he would take the $300 I offered (which was generous honestly)

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I had it exactly 4 hours before THIS happened!

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Oh, someone had some FUNNNNN with this one...

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The chain was in adjustment (so not so stretched out there isn't anything left) but they had it TIGHT to keep that front sprocket grabbing anything. I laughed when I took the sprocket off...

Oh, I should say, the importance of the "4 hours" part was that the top end was off the but the bottom end was in the quad when I picked it up.
 
Alright so I figured out it has maier aftermarket plastics on it. The front are both broken but stock blasty front fenders aren't hard to source. At least the back plastics are in decent shape, I just have to do something about an airbox...

So I have a few update pics. Apparently the bolts holding the retaining plate to the front sprocket came off at some point and the chain ground into the "case saver" area (<-- I call it that because no one ever has one until it's past time to NEED one) making a nice big hole in the area where the clutch arm goes down into. I cleaned it out a bunch and "tinned" it using the HTS-2000 rod and then stuck a washer and part of a steel can down into the hole (to simulate the areas where the alloy could not be because other things needed to occupy those spaces) and began to braze it up. I had a LOT of trouble because the heat was a little hot for that area and the alloy always wants to puddle up against itself until it has enough mass built up to run down like hot lead and fall out of where I'm trying to get it to stay. I made a mess of the repair but I think it's taken well enough to finish it off with some quicksteel. I have one hole about as big around as a BB and one pinhole plus a little low area where the BB sized hole is. The quicksteel should take care of this light work easily.

I think it turned out well considering I could see most of the input shaft's end bearing, the clutch pushrod could fall out of the left side of the case once the clutch arm was removed and I could see over half of the clutch arm from the outside...

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I'm going to quicksteel and reassembly the bottom end tomorrow if I get a chance. The end product should be sealed and completely hidden from plain sight.
 
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That was a nice hole.
I got a question for you. In the second pic, in the middle at the very bottom, see that bolt? What is that for? I have one case the has it like that one and another that doesn't.
 
WELLLLL, I didn't realize it had this many troubles when I got it. Only dealing now with the trouble I found after I tore it apart.

By the time I'm done, it will be like new.

Cole, the older cases have that bolt and the newer ones don't. Like an access hole for when this bottom end was used for something else. Perhaps the motorcycle the cases were sourced from had a neutral light? Once the cases were no longer be used for whatever they were shared with, yamaha stopped drilling them out.
 
Just think 88, this is after owning it for 36 hours... I'll have it back running in a week or two and that's after I find a decent crank for it and have a spare top end bored to slap down on it.
 
Oh, well I thought you were being serious.

And after seeing all the trouble it has under the skin, I shouldn't have given him $300 for it but you live and learn.....
 
I'm thinking of starting this kinda stuff with lt250r's LOL. after I finish mine I'll have it down and I can redo another. then after that is a hybrid or zilla :D can't wait. IF I do a hybrid and it works out to be reliable I'm probably gonna let go of my 450 :)
 
I should have taken a before picture of the damage but this is the original hole size here:

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I may be able to finish up the hole with some quicksteel tonight and get some pics. I'll have to see how busy I am tonight!
 
So that set of cases ended up getting repaired more than satisfactorily and sold on Ebay. It brought a hefty price and I "re-invested" that into more blasty parts. Always more blasty parts!!!!

So now I have a blaster frame sitting out there looking all sad like. With all of the other drag blaster builds going on with all the fancy dancy new parts and HUGE budgets I have decided to build a drag blasty but not the conventional method... (calling up RDZ and writing a blank check)

My plan is to build a "stock" blaster for use on the drag track. I'm shooting for a 300' sand drag monster. My plan is to use a stock bore stock stroke and completely stock frame. In other words, this machine will be completely convertible back to a completely stock blaster with enough wrenching.

I have a few goodies already piled up for this. I traded JonS for a set of busted cases which are going into this build. I have a Driveline 240HD clutch (and may end up getting RDZ 80% overstock springs).

I also have a plan for fuel for this monster.... I will run this on alcohol but my plan is to install enough fuel capacity to run this machine on at least 25% nitromethane. Methanol is 23% oxygen by volume and its stoich air-to-fuel ratio is 8:1. Nitromethane is 53% oxygen by volume and it's stoich AFR is a WHOPPING 3.2:1 because nitromethane is a partial mono-propellant. A small blend of nitromethane doesn't have the literally "explosive" power potential of 90% nitromethane (top fuel) but the way I figure it, there's a theoretical limit to the power output of a stock blaster jug before it rips the jug mounting ears off the sleeve and that magic number is somewhere JUST northward of 70hp. I'm shooting there and I think 25% nitromethane might get me there.

I plan on running a small battery and powering a 12V ignition coil (MSD blaster2 coil perhaps just because everything needs to be "blaster" on this thing)

I also plan on making single plane suspension for the front. I will be running spindle mount rims and tires (I'll get to the application later)

I will be making an extended swing arm with a solid strut and a wheelie bar mount using a stock carrier and axle. The only brakes on the machine will be mechanical disc brakes on the rear.

This one is for all us poor fuggers who can't do it big style...

For the first installment:

A Keihin PJ38 carburetor. This carb has a rich history on this forum. I have managed to trade carb for carb 4 times to get here. I started with an OKO 30mil with a clear plastic bowl. I traded that for a PWK36, then I traded that for a PWK33, and then I traded THAT for this 38PJ. Considering the shear amount of fuel needed to power a dragger engine, I immediately went for methods to increase fuel flow. My modifications so far: A mikuni powerjet and a Mikuni DF52 fuel pump.


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Down the throat slide closed:

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Looking down the throat slide open:

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The powerjet mounting, it's just a tight drilled hole with an o-ring against the body. I bent the mounting tab back to match the curve of the carburetor body. I tapped a 8-32 hole into the body carefully.

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The mikuni powerjet kit comes designed to install in a VM series carburetor but I stuck this thing into a PJ carburetor. The fuel supply for the powerjet is supplied from the bottom of the float bowl. Mikuni supplied a "press fit" nipple:

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Gonna be a minute.... I have a LOTTTTTT of work to do including fabricating a pipe and getting the engine tuned out on this fuel (I have NO idea where to start on jetting just shooting in the dark)
 
Wow, I will def be tuned in on any info you are sharing in this thread. I was planning to do some radical stuff with my blaster. Stuff thats never been done before... Problem is, Im a college student and dont have all the funds now. Glad to see someone with the funds going crazy. Doin what everyone else does is just plain boring lol.
 
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