What am I doing wrong here?

DirtBlaster03

New Member
Jun 22, 2008
195
3
23
Georgia, USA
So I'm finally finding time to work on the blaster. Starting up front with the SCD a-arms. The problem I'm running into is the angle of the tire. I'm a lil rusty on terms but I think the camber is too positive. The top is farther out than the bottom. Is this a shock issue (shocks are off a YFZ450X)? Did I set up the a- arms improperly? I'd like to have a lil negative or neutral camber if possible.
 

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I don't know why the pic is upside down. Here's another of the side in question. Looks like Quagmire after he discovered the Internet.
 

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Did James build them for the YFZ450 shocks? The 450 shocks are somewhere around 2" longer. That is camber, BTW. You will either have to move the top ball joints in or the bottom out. Toe is set with the tie rods and I don't think SCD arms are caster adjustable. I'm sure SCD will see this thread and take care of you, he seems like a real stand up guy. I like the way he builds them, not using the heim joints.
 
I'll make sure I mention this thread to Civic, when he gets inside. I won't let him miss it.
 
Hey good buddy, glad to see you got around to working on it!

The problem is pretty simple, you need to install the jamnut on the outside of the a-arm and leave approximately 3 threads sticking out from there. Should set you up just about perfect ;)

Looking good man!
 
SCD, where these arms built for the 450 shocks? I think I had read that you were doing some LT's but didn't know who was getting them.

I think he only made/is making those for people who wants them, specifically.
 
Yes, I understood that. Is this a set he did for the longer shocks? Typo in the first question, I was asking "were these made for long travel" where should have been were.

Gotcha! I don't think they were, but I lose track of what he's doing and who for, so there's a very real possibility that I'm wrong. :)
 
Yes, these a-arms are made for YFZ450 front shocks.

The jamnut doesn't hold the ball joints in at all, the bungs that the ball joints thread into are threaded the entire way. The jamnut only keeps the ball joint from spinning once it's installed.

If you have a ball joint press, you can remove the ball joint from the spindle and switch the jamnut around. If not, remove the lower a-arm and unscrew it from the ball joint that way. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" tie rod end remover on those ball joints, you will tear the boot on those brand new ball joints.
 
Pickle forks should be banned.

Agreed!

I bought a KD Tools #3916 press a while back and haven't looked back since. They're inexpensive, super effective, and have no risk to the joint, threads, boot, or life and limb.

KD Tools Universal Ball Joint Separator - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

$19 at sears.

I've used it on BIG jobs too..... I used it to press the track bar out of the front end of my dodge (limited space, couldn't get it out easily with anything else) but it did it!
 
Agreed!

I bought a KD Tools #3916 press a while back and haven't looked back since. They're inexpensive, super effective, and have no risk to the joint, threads, boot, or life and limb.

KD Tools Universal Ball Joint Separator - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

$19 at sears.

I've used it on BIG jobs too..... I used it to press the track bar out of the front end of my dodge (limited space, couldn't get it out easily with anything else) but it did it!

I got one of those too! Pickle forks are good for Pickles!
 
I haven't had a chance to get the other a-arms on.

But I did get a 400ex rear shock installed. Once I had KOR's bushings the hardest part was drilling out the bottom bolt holes on the shock.

Tonight when I get home from work I'll get goin on the other a-arm set. So hopefully when everyone wakes up tomorrow there will be some more pics up. I:I
 

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