My 90 Blaster Rebuild ( First Ever!)

First coat of paint is down... Its hanging to dry for a bit... then ill slap the second coat on this afternoon... i think three coats is the ticket on this baby.. but the lime sure didnt have a problem blocking out that red..and it made it much easier to see where i was missing....

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Its actually Key Lime... which is a light green neon kinda thing...

Funny you should say that.... they had this special reflective clear coat at home depot i was thinking of trying on it.... but not much need since i dont have a light for my blaster as of yet for night riding..

Back to the Garage for second coat shortly..

Cheers
 
do you think i should do the A-arms the same color... or black... most my plastic will be black..so im thinking key lime hubs..black rims..and black a-arms and steering stem... also black swing arm..key lime hubs and black axle?? Sound about right??
 
second coat is done now... she is just baking in the sun... but of a breeze so im hoping dirt an debris doesnt come in the garage front door...... Think ill let her dry overnight..and hit it with one last coat of key lime tomorrow... then ill figure out if clear coat is a good idea or not...
 
Im just not sure if that reflective clear will be okay over this paint im still not sure if i can clear coat or not.... I started to do the a-arms.. got the lowers with first coat of primer.. i cant do them in the shop..so they are out in teh elements.. so i hope they are ok.... im going to do them black.. so ill wait until the frame is done and dried..so i can move it outta the shop before i spray the a-arms..

More pics to come..
 
Looking good so far Leines! Just remember, if you paint something with a rattle can that is going to be cleared, use the same brand of clear and paint. You shouldn't have any trouble if you use Rustoleum Crystal Clear with any Rustoleum paint. Your airbox doesn't look that bad to me. if you want to paint any plastic, you can use Krylon Fusion. Just don't clear over it, it doesn't shine much more with clear anyway. You should always wet sand between any color coats and between clear coats as well. Use a 2000 grit wet/dry paper just to knock down the shine. The more coats you put on, the better it will look. I still have a crap load of parts if you need anything, give me a shout. I just bought a running (but crappy looking) '94 the other day for $200. I will send you some pics. It was running kind of weak so I ordered new rings for it and am putting it back together today maybe. Later bro.
 
Well they didnt have any clear coat made by rustoleum at the home depot beside that reflective stuff and i wasnt gonna chance that... so i ended up getting some tremclad clear coat.. that says to let paint cure for 48 hours then clear... ive primed and painted my a-arms both uppers and lowers black rustoleum they are drying now.. i not sure if i should wait 48 hours or if 24hrs is enough... on the cans it says you can clear within one hour or wait 24hrs... and on the clear is says let paint cure 48 hours....

Im going to need that front setup from you for sure... also still on the hunt for something for a rear brake.... front fenders and rear plastic also...

Continuing on.... Im thinking maybe i should be replacing the bearings and seals in these a-arms... any idea where the cheapest place to get replacements is??

Cheers
 
sounds like the project is going well. these damn things will nickle and dime you to death. speaking of nickles and dimes I have a stock carb with a few brand new main and pilot jets plus it has a moose racing tors elimination kit with the air screw. the cable is steel braided also. selling the whole thing for 100 bucks. check the wanted tread for pics
 
Well as you guys maybe have been able to tell.. ive had to slow down just a bit... started a new job where i have to drive to the city everyday... and this is now officially a weekend project...i really wanted to get majority of the painting done while the weather is good....


Ive got my manual and i talked to my uncle about taking the engine to his shop to bench so i can work on it there....this will be a slow weekend build over the course of the fall maybe extend into winter.... I have a feeling it will be done when there is tons of snow on the ground and i wont be able to ride her till spring...


So i have the frame painted lime and the a-arms painted black... next thing i will try to do it rebuild the a-arms...also have to send off a paypal for the front brake setup so i can get the front end back together...

Cheers
 
love the frame color, looks like a work in progress, it'll be worth it in the end, i'm runnin into a few nickel and dime'rs rebuildin mine too but thats the way it goes i suppose, it's a good thing i love turnin wrench as much as i do ridin.............well almost as much as ridin
 
I hear you... this is the first time ive ever attempted to rebuild anything with an engine... hell i didnt even fix bicycles when i was younger... so i wanna make sure i dont rush thru things..and i do it properly... or at least to the best of my ability....

My plan is to paint the front and rear hubs the lime...the rims will be black... steering stem and tie rods will be black... the swingarm black..the carrier on the axle lime...and the rear axle black... with all black plastics... a black and lime seat cover....


I havent decided between black handle bars..and lime grips... or lime bars and black grips....
 
i took mine completly down to the bare frame in 2 hours it looked like there was a crack on the case half you might want to get that looked at you could get it tig welded for about 40 bucks or jb weld holds up to were are you located i might have some extra parts laying around
 
powdercoating is outta the budget... ive done two coats of clear on the lime... i may hit it with one more... im in ontario canada near toronto... my case is cracked hear the shifter spot... so i bought two perfect cases off of a member here to do the rebuild... but i may keep the old cases around to see if someone can fix them..