My 90 Blaster Rebuild ( First Ever!)

Leines

New Member
Jul 12, 2010
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Well ive made a few posts here and there... but i think its time to make my own thread... im a technology junkie... who hasnt worked on an engine or a atv or even a weed eater in my life... I got this blaster in trade... and over the last couple days.. ive been in the process of tearing it down to the frame... and then start the task of putting her back together.... So far.. it looks like im going to be into a sh*tload of parts... ill try to source as much online from this forum and ebay to try to keep some costs down..... Ive order the cylmer manual and it should arrive in the next week or so... so between then and now.. my goal is to get the bike into piece and the engine out.. so i can start sanding etc on the frame parts....

Let the Pictures begin...

This is my Tent Garage thingy.... Few Snowblowers around... The new cubby is my main one..
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So i got all the plastic off, gas tank off, the wiring was totally crapped, got the carb off, exhaust etc... i did this yesterday..
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I realized im missing a bolt in the head..... Yikes.... Yet another thing ill have to cover..

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Since the gas in this blaster was mixed already... i gotta assume it has the oil block off?? can you tell by the side view??
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Not sure if it will show up.. by the case is cracked and broken away where the shifter enters... ( bought engines cases from blasterforum, stuck in customs)
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Other side view.... jb weld on the side cover... also broken from chain slip... ( add one to the list i guess)
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carb threads were stripped.. so this genius drilled holes and it was held ( loose term) by screws.... ( maybe fix?? or add it to the list..)

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My box of parts... FMF gold series exhaust which doesnt seem to have any holes... suppose to be fmf silencer.. but no label i can see.. twist throttle somewhere in there... cables and other stuff that might be junk..
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another shot of box.
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The piston seems to move freely inside the case.... so thats a bonus i guess.

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to be continued.
 
are these stock reeds??? i assume so.. but there was a v-force sticker on the frame..so who knows....
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Ok so this is where im stuck for the day... I cant get the hub away from the A-arm??? two pictures of that..

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It prolly just need a bit more love then im giving it.. but the rear shock bottom bolt wont come completely out either

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I also have the bottom bolt on the other shock which doesnt wanna move at all... I put the jig-a-loo to it... and im letting it sit... even with the corded impact that baby doesnt wanna spin... not sure whats next to try.. you can see the completely crapped plastics in the background... ( add to the list i guess.... )

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So basically my plan is to get the engine out.. and then rip the rest apart down to frame.. so i can sand/grind and paint it nice and shiny... i can do this stuff at home as long as the weather stays nice... the engine i might take to my uncles shop where the tool selection is much better.. but ill document that as much as i can as well.. keeping in mind i know very little about engines in general if i used a wrong term or something please do correct me..


Im thinking of a black and orange color combo...anyone have any pictures of one done up like that??

Cheers
LeineS
 
Ok so i went back out.. i have the engine out of the frame..and the swing arm with rear tires still on it... just resting.... I cant for the life of me get the front hubs off the bottom a-arms at that rubber joint thing.... also i have a bolt that is seized.. i put jig a loo and wd40 to it.. and let it sit.. but im thinking i need the next step.. is that a torch??

Any help is appreciated... Im almost right down to the frame.. so ill be sanding away over the course of the week getting prepped for paint....


Ill post a pic of what she looks like now...

Cheers
 
As she sits right now... this is whats left for me to strip..

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On both sides of the blaster i cant get the front hubs from the a-arms at the spot in this picture..

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And this bolt on the front shock also is being a pain... how exactly should i go about getting it loose???

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Tomorrow i should be able to get a few more hours into it.. so look for updates..

Cheers
 
As she sits right now... this is whats left for me to strip..

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On both sides of the blaster i cant get the front hubs from the a-arms at the spot in this picture..

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And this bolt on the front shock also is being a pain... how exactly should i go about getting it loose???

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Tomorrow i should be able to get a few more hours into it.. so look for updates..

Cheers

Put some muscle into it I:I
Try using a breaker bar for the shock.
As for the rear shock get a chisel or a long screw driver and drive it out with a hammer.
For the a-arms that can be a bit tricky. You can try the ole 2x4 and sludge to beat it out or get a tie rod fork and GENTLY and CAREFULLY tap it out. Let us know how it goes.
 
Ive put more then enough muscle into it... and i also used a corded impact gun... no luck... I tried that with the shock.. but now that the rear swing arm is away from the frame.. should be a bit easier...


so for the a-arm... it does just come up and away from that bolt... i was hitting it pretty good with the hammer.. but it wasnt coming.. ill go get a good rubber mallet to hit it with so i can get more power without thinking about breaking it....both sides are pretty stuck... same with the hubs.. i took off the nut on outside.. but i cant get the hubs apart either... Tomorrow is another.. so ill try the mallet and post the results..

Thanks for the help..

Cheers
 
Hi Leines,

Try this. First if you can put the upper A-arms back on temporarily do it. It'll help hold the spindle while you get the back plate off the spindle. Take the Brake cable off to get it out of the way.

1) Take the crown nut off that's holding the brake drum on and disassemble the whole hub if you can get the upper A-arms back on. If not then just skip this step.
2) In the red circle, you'll see a "slot" that's about the size of a med. size flat blade screw driver. Drive a screw driver in here as a wedge. you should see a little space open up by the arrow. Spray some WD-40 in here as well as ALL the way around it, including the slotted section on the other side and let it soak over night.
3) Tomorrow, alternate between driving the screwdriver in and pounding the back plate with a rubber mallet and adding more WD-40 until it comes off.
4) Grease the threads on a flange nut. Put the flange nut (upside down) on the ball-joint screw in the yellow circle. Tread it down until the end of the bolt is just even with the surface of the flange nut.
5) Now you have a surface that can take the pounding of a hammer without wrecking your threads.
6) So support the edge of the back plate and pound the flange nut with a regular or ball-peen hammer. Once the bolt gives way, take the nut off and simply remove the bolt.

Hope this helps
George
 
I think i get what your saying.... tomorrow ill give it a go with getting the hub away from the A-arms... then ill work on getting the hub apart after its removed by getting the wd-40 in there and letting it sit overnight..

Thanks for the help... Ill post my progress tomorrow..
 
ok well i went at it pretty good early today.... i got the steering column out no problems... but those damn front hubs and the shock bolt arent being soo nice...

I took the torch to the bolt on the shock... it was hot enough that the shock was getting hot.. not bright red.. but it should have been hot enough to get the rust broken... the nut still wont come off..... i dunno what else to do.. i hit it with more wd40 and let it sit overnight again maybe... my girlfriend is bringing me home some krown 53 which apparently is an anti seize... so maybe that will work... or maybe get the bolt cut off.. and just replace the bolt and shock.. ( found two front shocks for $30 in the local classifieds from a 2003 blaster.. which seems is a good deal)

as for the front hubs... i put the top a arm back on... and put the nut onto the bolt till it was flush... i put a piece of firewood under the front hub... and i hit the piss outta the bolt with the rubber mallet. and it didnt even budge... both sides... im wondering if they have ever been removed in 20 years... i gave them a small torch treatment but nothing crazy.. but still no movement.....

Ive found a front brakes set including hubs here on blasterforum for sale which im going to need anyway.... so id have to buy two bottom A-arms and the shocks....and i could just forget about fighting this seized stuff..... but id like to avoid the added cost since these ones look fine to me..

Any suggestions now?? more torch??? stronger impact gun maybe?? mine is just a corded i think 3amp one?

Cheers
 
Well i put the rachet into the metal bar from my jack... and gave it a good pull again... little more heat... and then tried again.. and it came loose.... now im going back to try and get the bolt thru and the shock off... then maybe if i still cant get a-arms away from the front hubs... ill just remove them..and then start to sand the frame while i look for a way to get the hubs off.....
 
i have a complete carb with cable and 270 and 300 main jets if youre interested... i also have a clutch cover if interested
 
does the carb already have the tors off it? im not sure if the one i have here will be usable still.. i dont see why i cant figure out a better way too get the cap to stay on.. or worse case buy one of the moose racing cap kits.... maybe.. ill keep it in mind tho...
 
Ok well after putting some Krown 56 on the ball joint bolts.... and some sound advice some sheeblast.. i went back out to the garage this morning and got the front hubs/spindles away from the a-arms... now looking at the ball joints on these a-arms.. there was a reason they were stuck to the spindle.. looking like someone used some sort of loctite or something to keep em on there because the threads are stripped... are these ball joints replacable ( i assume the answer is yes) also while i have this baby all apart.. should i be rebuilding these a-arms with new bearings or something??

i noticed a few of the grease nipples ( prolly not the right term) are missing on the a-arms as well... are those replacable??

Now i should be prepping for paint... is sanding necessary on the frame... is there a particular primer and paint brand i should be using??


Thanks for all the help.. im going to go back and rep all of ya'll..

Cheers
 
stock a-arms ball joints are not replacable.
you will need other stock a-arms or time to go a/m.

also the term is grease zerk. you can replace these. just screw in a new one.

also dont use WD40 to get a stuck part loose, it will never work. they are a lube. it will not break rust up. use PB blaster.
 
thanks again sheeblast... ive made notes of pb blaster and ill look for it here in canada... the grease thing im sure i can find so thats good news... now to figure out what to do about these a-arms...

Cheers
 
the threads arent completely stripped.. but the rubber is cracked and broken..and the threads have seen better days near the bottom of the bolt... im going to see what the costs are like and figure it out from there.... the list keeps getting bigger and bigger for what i need to replace.. but at least at the end ill have something i can say i built myself (well with the help of blasterforum of course.. )

Cheers