If You Give a Mouse a Cookie...

Re: Don't bother using a Banshee Carrier

not to say the opposite of what you just did but i doubt that little space will do anything. mine is just enough to have a wiggle and its on the same axle bearings from 1999 and they are just starting to go bad. no offence but i think ur bein a lil paranoid lol. if you do know for a fact that this is bad let me know and i will try to fix it when i change my bearings but i think if it was loose for 11 years and it was gonna screw the splines it would have done it by now

it wasnt loose for 11 years. And if you think its a good idea to ride around with a loose axle, I'd hate to see the way you maintain the rest of your bike... I predict great expense in your future.
 
Bikes looking great muggzy! Love the silver plastics!

And yeah play in the axle and carrier is bad, even alittle bit. I had a mojave with worn out carrier bearings.... not fun times..... don't be a halfass, fix it and you will thank yourself.
 
I learned a long time ago not to start vast projects with half-vast ideas :D

Reading this forum, many people have done this and at least Brandon confirms his fit with "No problems", there has to be something wrong here and there's really only 3-4 things that it can be:
  1. One of the hubs is too narrow
  2. The inner bearing spacer(s) are compressed
  3. Or the Carrier spacer is too short
These should all get compressed against each other between the nuts on the left and the axle shoulder on the right so the bearings roll without any undo side-to-side stress. There just isn't anything else. If I had some dims. of what these widths should be I could ID the source of the problem. In all likelyhood, It's the bearings &/or Carrier Spacer:

Axlebuild-out.jpg
 
In all likelyhood, It's the bearings &/or Carrier Spacer:

And since I'm gonna replace them after I test-ride the mods and tear down for powder coat, I might as well just get a really big, hardened washer to fill the gap like Phragle suggested and run with it for now. If it ends up being permanent with the new bearings (and maybe a sleeve), I suppose I can live with that.
beatingDeadHorse-1.gif
 
Bikes looking great muggzy! Love the silver plastics!

Thanks! Maier Plastics is having a 1/2 off clearance sale on particular colors. Not too many left but worth a look for anyone who's in the market... I picked up the hood, tank cover, and front and rear fenders for just over $300. (shipped) I:I

Do it over the phone after you've found what you want and you'll save a little more on shipping
sport-1.gif
 
Re: Don't bother using a Banshee Carrier

it wasnt loose for 11 years. And if you think its a good idea to ride around with a loose axle, I'd hate to see the way you maintain the rest of your bike... I predict great expense in your future.

i didn't realize that carrier bearings would make the hub loose. if they do then my hub wasn't loose for 11 years it was for about 2 months and is about to b fixed when i get my bearings. sry for any confusion
 
Re: Don't bother using a Banshee Carrier

it wasnt loose for 11 years. And if you think its a good idea to ride around with a loose axle, I'd hate to see the way you maintain the rest of your bike... I predict great expense in your future.

and don't worry about me maintaining my bike, i would worry about some of the others on here cause mine is def up there in being maintained
 
Hey guys how are ya? I'm new here, my first post actually. Puttin a bike together for my son. We did the Banshee rear carrier for the moment(had one laying around) and had the same kind of issue you are having with the spacing on the axle. I ended up making longer spacer tubes for inbetween the bearings. I think I used schedule 10 pipe in like a 1 1/2" or maybe 1 1/4". Almost the exact size of the stock spacer. Worked ok. I'm running dura blue Banshee axles in his Blaster and my Banshee and it actually improved the threaded surface for the axle lock nut. Not sure if that makes sense, the dura blues have that funky inside threaded nut. It helps keep the inside threaded part from coming out too far. If you are familiar with them you know what I'm talking about. Just dont make your spacer too long or it'll screw up your spacing for the rotor and prob wear the outer pad. Anyway my input. Keep up the good work. Looks good.
 
Any experience with a Banshee axle??

McMaster Carr is AWESOME! I've used them many tomes for "Special" hardware as well as some common stuff and I've never had slow service. The search feature on their site narrows things down what just what you need and you get it in just a couple days with standard shipping. I got these "arbor spacers" after I measured up what I needed and they'll do the trick until I tear down and check the dimensions on the bearing spacer inside the carrier.

spacerfromMacMasterCarr.jpg


Put one on the axle and it tightened up just like it ought to...

spacerinstalled.jpg
 
They sure are I:I I finally got the YFZ 450 shock that I won on ebay for $5 + $25 shipping (good deal over all). It's clean and tight and now I'm looking at the possibility of stretching the swing arm just forward of the shock mount. At this point it's just a thought, I'll have to get into the garage and look at it real hard with Phragle's "Suspension Geometry 101" Thread in hand:

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/suspension-geometry-101-a-11155/

Thanks Phragle, I may have some questions for you when I get into it.
 
Well I decided that this damn mouse is getting the better of me so I drop kicked him out the door and set the YFZ shock aside in favor of putting this frankenblaster together and taking it for a ride damn it!
sport-1.gif


So a great big, whole hearted, thank you to every veteran that this day is dedicated to. I:I I tightened up all the hardware on the rear end, bled my Banshee brakes, mounted the swinger skid plate that came today, put the new chain on, stripped out all of the vestigial wiring that was left over from the TORS and the Oil Pump and rewrapped the harness. Now I'm just waiting for the jet assortment I got from Jets-R-Us (should be in tomorrow I hope, I hope I hope)

Hey can anyone put me in the ball-park for jetting my carb? I'm at 900ft elevation, have a DG Exhaust (i know, but it came with the bike) open air box with K&N filter and the stock Mikuni 26mm carb. Air temp at the moment is in the 50's.

2010-11-11_18-12-48_245.jpg


2010-11-11_18-12-48_245.jpg



(btw Thanks to mmjay! Great deal on the skid plate. Shipped instantly so I got it in 2 days)
 
Thanks Brandon!

Hey I still haven't put the rubber fin dampeners back on the head/cylinder. Will they matter? What's the risk of leaving them off? Just noise or am I looking for trouble somewhere?
 
It's ALIVE
Tazz-1.gif
OK, I got it all back together and started it up, just a few kicks and it's running. Got the air bleed set and the idle screw adjusted but I can't ride it b/c the clutch wont work.

The clutch was working for the 5 minutes I rode it before I tore it down back in August. Yesterday, I set the pointer on the clutch lever to line up with the pointer on the crankcase but pulling in the clutch handle up on the handle bars doesn't disengage the motor. I tried adjusting the screw on the perch out further and further until i couldn't go out any more but the clutch won't work. If I'm not in neutral, the wheels are connected to the crankshaft, clutch pulled in or not. While I was working on things, the closest I got to the clutch was disabling the oil pump by removing the white gear. I refilled the case with about 750 ml of really good (Super M) gear case oil. The case was empty but closed up for about a month.
shrug-1.gif
Any ideas?
 
sounds to me you just missadjusted the clutch. I would try again. sucks to have to open the clutch cover again though.

That's the thing; I never touched the clutch. It's not so bad opening the cover, at least I can leave the engine in the frame. But All I did since this build started, was drain the motor and remove the white plastic oil impeller gear from inside. On the outside, I removed the clutch cable when I took the engine out of the frame. So I can't figure out what could've changed?
 
you only need 650ml of oil but i doubt that is your problem, freek had that happen to him out of the blue at busco and he had to get to the clutch and adjust the little screw that is in the middle.
 
you only need 650ml of oil but i doubt that is your problem, freek had that happen to him out of the blue at busco and he had to get to the clutch and adjust the little screw that is in the middle.


Thanks noober, yeah I didn't think that putting a little too much oil in the case would hurt but it wasn't showing up in the little window as I was pouring so I didn't stop early enough. Just thought I'd mention it in case. I guess I'm gonna have to take the cove off - tomorrow, I'm goin ridin tday
sport-1.gif