If You Give a Mouse a Cookie...

Muggzy

Member
Jul 11, 2010
386
22
70
Orange Co., NY
OK, all. Here's my next project. I just finished a '97 Banshee that I got in 5 boxes of parts with a blown engine. It was my first project, my first quad, my first ride of any kind and I'm still learning to ride it (not exactly a beginner's bike ...) I:I. So, if you give a mouse a cookie... Now I need a companion ride so I can take a friend along, so I picked up this Blaster so one of my sons or a close friend can come along and see why I've become so obsessed with this stuff (you all already know why :) ) so here are some pics minus the plastics, gas and oil tanks....

Since I've never ridden a Blaster and don't know anything about them other than what I've learned in my short time as a member of this site, I figure I'm gonna just get it working first:

Delete the oil tank and disable the pump
New shoes and cables for the front brakes
Banshee hubs on rear and
Banshee rear breaks
Full Banshee axle eventually

Problem is the frame was broken and is crooked where the previous owner did a poor job of repairing it and it's re-breaking where the rear latch bar is. The right side of the seat latch bar is completely loose and overhanging the frame 1/2" where it should connect, the left side is cracked nearly through at the weld and the center is almost cracked through.
 

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sweet man....lets see some of the banshee!!!

edit: get rid of that dg exhaust on the blasty....they are worthless....
 
sweet man....lets see some of the banshee!!!

edit: get rid of that dg exhaust on the blasty....they are worthless....

Here's the before and after pics of the Banshee... Mostly simple add-ons (check my sig.) and a really good jetting (a little rich) that make it run smooooth and plenty fast (for me anyway). Those VForce 3's were the key to smoothing out the Banshee's notorious unwieldy throttle response I:I. Oh yeah! the best go-fast mod of all - the 6-pack rack :D

What do you recommend for exhaust? I was hoping to paint it but it's so rusted I'm probably gonna HAVE to replace it. I intend to port the cylinder a little, add VForce 3's and jet it but that's likely all of the engine work I'll do - other than a good cleaning and maybe while the cylinder is off, a new piston and honing. Damn, there's that mouse again ;) .
 

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nice job man....i have a bill's pipe and silencer and i love it, came with the bike though so idk how much they are and i hardly ever see a used one for sale....but fmf's seem to be a dime a dozen, i always see them 4sale on ebay and craigslist used....and they are good pipes.....but check the pipe review thread in the engine forum, its stickied at the the top and covers pretty much every pipe you could think of and has reviews/feedback of what ppl think of them...thats where id start...hope this helped....
 
OK So I got a really s#!tty frame and a bunch of mostly worthless parts for $100. The frame's going to get cut and spliced into the frame I have (the existing tail is cracked and bent).

I also just got hold of a Banshee rear axle and carrier. Would anyone who's mounted this up mind taking some pics of the way they connected the Banshee carrier to the Blaster swing arm? I'm going to take pics as I go and post them in the "How to" section, but If someone could tell me what they used for spacers and which side they were put on to maintain chain alignment, that would be a HUGE help.

Thanks
George
 
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You paid $100 for it and it came as a roller (albeit broken) and engine? Mostly worthless says you, not all bad says I.

The DG headpipe is fine if that is what's installed on the bike. The DG pipe wasn't a great improvement over the stock pipe (power wise). If you are looking to replace it anyway FMF gold series isn't a bad choice for a lightly modded blaster and they can be had cheap.

What's with all this chopping and hacking business? What makes a swapped tail seciton any stronger than a repaired front section? With patience and a steady hand a frame can be straightened and rewelded (and while you're down there anyway, gusseted for the future abuse) and turn out as strong or stronger than the factory frame.
 
OK So I got a really s#!tty frame and a bunch of mostly worthless parts for $100. The frame's going to get cut and spliced into the frame I have (the existing tail is cracked and bent).

I also just got hold of a Banshee rear axle and carrier. Would anyone who's mounted this up mind taking some pics of the way they connected the Banshee carrier to the Blaster swing arm? I'm going to take pics as I go and post them in the "How to" section, but If someone could tell me what they used for spacers and which side they were put on to maintain chain alignment, that would be a HUGE help.

Thanks
George

Your calipers should give you the meausrement
 
You paid $100 for it and it came as a roller (albeit broken) and engine?

... If you are looking to replace it anyway FMF gold series isn't a bad choice for a lightly modded blaster and they can be had cheap.

What's with all this chopping and hacking business? What makes a swapped tail section any stronger than a repaired front section? With patience and a steady hand a frame can be straightened and rewelded (and while you're down there anyway, gusseted for the future abuse) and turn out as strong or stronger than the factory frame.

OK lemme splain, The frame I just got was at the edge of a scrap pile, NOT a roller and NO motor and pretty rusty. The first frame I got has a running motor, but needs brakes replaced/rebuilt all around. THIS frame was bent and broken and fixed badly and the rear seat bar is broken off the frame on one side and cracked through the middle. The first pics I put up are hard to see all of this but anyway....

I'm gonna cut the tail from the scrap-pile frame, use some of the remaining scrap frame to make sleeves for the splice and weld the two together. I'll file the welds and strip and re-paint the frame and it'll look brand new. (did this with a mini-bike project and it worked really well)

The gusseting is a good idea I:I. Can anyone give some suggestions/pics on where they should be added?
 
Your calipers should give you the meausrement

Thanks! letting the caliper drive the spacing sounds great. I know people have done this so if I could get the spacer dims ahead of time, it'll avoid a lot of test fitting :) The caliper is fixed to the carrier and is just that; it's fixed. So how will that work??

I'm using a Banshee caliper to replace the non-working Blaster rear brake. And while i'm at it I have a couple of useable banshee rear wheels so I just need the banshee hubs. So now that I'm doing all of this might as well get a banshee carrier so the caliper will just bolt right on... damn that mouse. OK might as well get the banshee axle too.
 
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what happens if you give a mouse a cookie, ive never tried it.

If you give a mouse a cookie then he'll want a glass of milk. And when you give him the milk, then he'll need a napkin. And when you give him the napkin then he's gonna want ......

It's an old children's bed-time-story ;)

So every time i touch something, I find something else that should be done too. Even this project; Now that my banshee is done, I need another bike for a friend (or son) to ride 'cause you really shouldn't ride alone....
 
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OK, Enough of that crap

I got the frame spiced in...I:I
Just used Rustoleum automotive primer from a can to hold off any rust until I'm ready to PC (which may be quite a while since I've pretty well tapped myself out)
 

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Also got the Banshee front shocks and new brake cables in. Wait'n for parts to finish rebuilding the front hubs and the Banshee rear brakes. I'll be work'n on the banshee rear axle and carrier in the mean time.
 

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If you give a mouse a cookie then he'll want a glass of milk. And when you give him the milk, then he'll need a napkin. And when you give him the napkin then he's gonna want ......

It's an old children's bed-time-story ;)

So every time i touch something, I find something else that should be done too. Even this project; Now that my banshee is done, I need another bike for a friend (or son) to ride 'cause you really shouldn't ride alone....



dude....story of my life lmao.


the racecar is this way, and so is the blaster
 
The splice looks really good.

I misread what you said about the frames. I understand now...pics really do help!

ATV Riders Forum - gusset kit

this thread shows a custom gusset set. TPRusa also sells a full frame gusset set for the blaster if you can stand the spider web theme.

The gusset plates are $89 but the "installation kit" is an additional $350. I'm not even sure what an installation kit is... maybe it's the instructions, who knows. LOL

You can make your own though, 1/8" plate steel and a careful hand can cut out a whole lot of gussets. My local Ace Hardware has a wide selection of steelworks products and while they're not very economical if you need much at all, they are very convenient for a very small project. They carry 1/8" x 3" x 36" plate. It's about $15 for the plate but it would be enough to do at least one whole quad in gussets. A port-a-band (or saw-z-all with a metal cutting blade) and an angle grinder can make some pretty gussets if you have the patience for it.
 
dr seusses best seller, If you give a mouse a two stroke!!:D

Yeah, I bet every father on this site'd be read'n it to his kids at bedtime and loud enough so the wifey could hear it ;)

dude....story of my life lmao. the racecar is this way, and so is the blaster

I'm glad someone could appreciate my sense of humor. Every time I touch something it's like; well while I'm doin this I might as well do that just 'cause I'm gonna be touch'n it anyway. Adds a whole new meaning to "Can't stop, Won't Stop".

This obsession with these quads is costing me a bunch. I can't imagine what the race car is costing you :eek:
 
started out with blasting it, then hanging all new body panels, then going through the interior, now a motor swap, better trans to deal with the power, better rear end to handle the new power, now it needs suspension.....she'll be down a while, its still about 10-15k from being done