DC Conversion, here we come!

[sicivicdude]

I have a bunch of big plans for my yellow blaster as this summer wears on. I've already got a ridiculously built engine and some decent suspension but it's really time to kick it up a notch. Part of that plan is the experimental front suspension but really, there's more to it than that.... I am tired of a flickering headlight at low engine rpm....

I bought a Trail tech DC conversion regulator/rectifier

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

For $10 last night!

I'm looking at a 4Ah AGM battery as well:

NEW PS1250F1 POWERSONIC 12V 4.5AH AGM SLA Battery | eBay

The only thing needed now is either an HID kit that will go into the older blaster headlight assembly or a new headlight assembly that I could bolt into the blaster's headlight bracket and I'll have some REAL lighting POWA!

 

[Awk08]

this could make a very good DIY, keep us updated with install pics of/and wiring diagrams ?

 

[blasterdemon7]

Sounds like a cool project. Keep us updated.

 

[giantvt104]

Yeah i would like to see how this comes out cause the fluctuating/dimming lighting is terrible. its like when you need visual at night the most.. like when all of a sudden there is an obstacle in path and you hit the brakes to manuever around it the instant the rpms drop you lose most of the light intensity. annoying and pretty dangerous.

 

[sicivicdude]

this could make a very good DIY if you keep us updated with install pics of/and wiring diagrams ?

You know it! The plan is to install an AC regulator for the trip on the 27th down to busco and then while it's sitting on jackstands for the front end parts (later this summer) do the wiring for the DC conversion.

 

[blasterdemon7]

Is this going to increase what wattage lights you can run or is it still limited by the stator ?

 

[CARNZ]

You can run whatever wattage lights you want, but if they are over the charging power of the stator you will be constantly draining your battery

 

[mmajay]

Hopefully you will come up with something stable because low rpm lighting on the blaster and banshee suck big time. This might help out a bunch.

 

[CARNZ]

For using a battery of 4Ah or bigger all you need to do is:
1) Float the ground on your stator.
2) Connect both ends of the lighting coil to the Yellow wires on the TrailTech Reg/Rec
3) Run the Red and Black wires from the TrailTech to the appropriate terminals on your battery.
4) Run the positive wire to all of your light components(switch, bulbs, etc).
5) Run all the ground wires to the negative terminal on your battery/
6) Enjoy stable lighting.

At low RPMs the magneto will not be able to fully charge the battery, so you will be draining charge, but the lights WILL NOT flicker as long as the battery is not completely dead.

While riding at higher engine speeds the Magneto will recharge the battery as you go!

 

[sicivicdude]

For using a battery of 4Ah or bigger all you need to do is:
1) Float the ground on your stator.
2) Connect both ends of the lighting coil to the Yellow wires on the TrailTech Reg/Rec
3) Run the Red and Black wires from the TrailTech to the appropriate terminals on your battery.
4) Run the positive wire to all of your light components(switch, bulbs, etc).
5) Run all the ground wires to the negative terminal on your battery/
6) Enjoy stable lighting.

At low RPMs the magneto will not be able to fully charge the battery, so you will be draining charge, but the lights WILL NOT flicker as long as the battery is not completely dead.

While riding at higher engine speeds the Magneto will recharge the battery as you go!

You hit the nail on the head 99% There's one wire on that regulator rectifier that you're missing. That's the sensing model regulator rectifier used for the small sealed batteries so it has a blue voltage sensing (current battery charge state) wire to keep from blowing up the smaller batteries

I have a 75watt Ricky Stator lighting coil to put onto it for this project too so I'll be able to run a pretty high output lighting setup.

 

[CARNZ]

You hit the nail on the head 99% There's one wire on that regulator rectifier that you're missing. That's the sensing model regulator rectifier used for the small sealed batteries so it has a blue voltage sensing (current battery charge state) wire to keep from blowing up the smaller batteries

I have a 75watt Ricky Stator lighting coil to put onto it for this project too so I'll be able to run a pretty high output lighting setup.

You only use the Blue sensor wire for batteries under 4Ah

Thats why my first line is "For Batteries 4Ah and larger"!

Photos direct from my Trailtech Paperwork:

I:I

 

[CARNZ]

added the trailtech photos to my previous post

 

[sicivicdude]

You only use the Blue sensor wire for batteries under 4Ah

I:I

I don't see any reason to run any larger than a 4Ah AGM battery ( I was actually considering smaller) because the only time this battery will be used is while the engine is running at RPM's lower than what the lighting system is using. The blue wire CAN be used on batteries that are larger than 4Ah but it's not necessary.

 

[CARNZ]

it's all in what u want

 

[sicivicdude]

it's all in what u want

With only a headlight and tailight, can you see any reason to run anything larger than 4Ah?

 

[CARNZ]

not really, but the possibility is there. and i got a 7.2Ah Gel Cell battery that fits in the blasters battery tray for only $18, so

 

[sicivicdude]

I'm probably going to make a battery box to put inside the front bumper (as the blaster is so tail heavy as is) because I have a handmade pod airbox that will already need redesigning for the toolkit I've got to go in it.

 

[CARNZ]

sounds cool, interested to see how you do it

 

[sicivicdude]

sounds cool, interested to see how you do it

SCD Racing premium install =

I:I

 

[CARNZ]

love it .