CT Sonic 240 kit + 4-mil Hotrods crank

Sorry I dont remember how much we removed. We started with a safe amount then test fitted the 4-mil and used a feeler gage to check the clearance, then cut some more. We had the first half in and out about 4 times checking clearance.


PLEASE do me one BIG FAVOR! When you get the pre-jetted carb, first open it up to see what main jet, pilot jet and needle jet is in it, and post it FOR ME. Then post what jets you are running to get it to run right.

I WANT TO KNOW what jets were suppose to come in my carb.

Will do man!



Phragle: Yes,, I know that. That's why I will be doing the complete jetting test procedure to see where the CT jetting is at.
 
Got the 4-mil in today. It looks good. Quick shipping, I would have had it Friday but no one was home to sign for it. Oh well. Waiting on the crank bearings now so we can start on the trench work.


Can someone please hook me up with a thread talking about where someone else trenched for the 4-mil so I can have a rough guesstimate to go by for mine?
 
Got the 4-mil in today. It looks good. Quick shipping, I would have had it Friday but no one was home to sign for it. Oh well. Waiting on the crank bearings now so we can start on the trench work.


Can someone please hook me up with a thread talking about where someone else trenched for the 4-mil so I can have a rough guesstimate to go by for mine?
 
Test fit your CT 240 first to see if you can fit your crankcase vent tube on, and make sure your studs are not to long!

I had to grind some off the cylinder under the reed cage and the tube fitting to get my vent tube on.


See the crack on the top of the acorn nut? Can we say false torque reading.
 
I am not a big fan of Acorn nuts for general applications.

I agree with you, BUT you have to use a washer and acorn nut to seal the stud hole. If my stud did not come through the acorn nut then i would not of found the vacuum leak from the hole in the pics.





 
I'll check it out. we are about a month or so from getting the top end. It's taking a little while to save up the 1500 lol I use acorn nuts for head bolts on liquid cooled machines and machines that uses stud passages for oil galleys. Other than that i use regular nuts with brass or steel washers.

With your studs,,,, are you sure you didnt just not thread it completely into the crankcase? seems like it should be easy to just trim it down by a few threads on the case side to make it drop down all the way,, right?

I understand the point of 'i just dropped nearly 2g's into this crap so it BETTER work and all fit together right the first time!' lol im expecting to have to do some work and crap to it (i was even before 79 posted the pics up) so nothing should surprise me short of a busted ear or something lol
 
personally, If I was building that motor I would use the long rod, Second, if built, setup and tuned correctly that motor should be in the 45~50 hp range. EVERYTHING in your bottom end needs to be new or in like new condition. Any dogging on the clutch basket tangs and you will eat clutches for breakfast etc.
 
I had to grind some off the cylinder under the reed cage and the tube fitting to get my vent tube on.

i think ken has developed a 90 degree fitting just for that particular line fitment issue on those cylinders

personally, If I was building that motor I would use the long rod, .

good call phrags !
hmmm, wonder who else is building/running +4 long rod 240 engines with falicon balanced cranks ?

but you know, according to some thats just cookie cutter sh*t... till they're picking dust from there teeth I:I
 
I love my cookie cutter setup. I will be going to pick up phrangles bikes Tuesday. He has a ct 240 setup. I will be doing comparisons with the KOR powered motor.
 
I'll check it out. we are about a month or so from getting the top end. It's taking a little while to save up the 1500 lol I use acorn nuts for head bolts on liquid cooled machines and machines that uses stud passages for oil galleys. Other than that i use regular nuts with brass or steel washers.

With your studs,,,, are you sure you didnt just not thread it completely into the crankcase? seems like it should be easy to just trim it down by a few threads on the case side to make it drop down all the way,, right?

I understand the point of 'i just dropped nearly 2g's into this crap so it BETTER work and all fit together right the first time!' lol im expecting to have to do some work and crap to it (i was even before 79 posted the pics up) so nothing should surprise me short of a busted ear or something lol


They were in completely! I spent some time talking to Allen from ct racing, the head guru and man behind the development of the CT Sonic 240, he is a very friendly and helpful guy, but he is not the person working on you stuff. You probably dont want to see who is working on your stuff! lol Apparently not all of the blaster cases have the same thread depth, and some times they have to use 2 washers or cut some off of the stud on the kicker side.

I got a new stud kit when i got my cylinder back from them and they cut one of the studs down for me. It looked like stevie wonder cut it off, it was cut crooked and i could not get a nut to start on it..lol
 
i think ken has developed a 90 degree fitting just for that particular line fitment issue on those cylinders



good call phrags !
hmmm, wonder who else is building/running +4 long rod 240 engines with falicon balanced cranks ?

but you know, according to some thats just cookie cutter sh*t... till they're picking dust from there teeth I:I

Ken does all the nice stuff!

I have seen a 90 degree fitting back before i had my ct 240, about 10 years ago. I could not find it when i was doing my motor.

I definitely recommend getting a 90 degree fitting from Ken to anyone getting a CT 240.
 
They were in completely! I spent some time talking to Allen from ct racing, the head guru and man behind the development of the CT Sonic 240, he is a very friendly and helpful guy, but he is not the person working on you stuff. You probably dont want to see who is working on your stuff! lol Apparently not all of the blaster cases have the same thread depth, and some times they have to use 2 washers or cut some off of the stud on the kicker side.

I got a new stud kit when i got my cylinder back from them and they cut one of the studs down for me. It looked like stevie wonder cut it off, it was cut crooked and i could not get a nut to start on it..lol

Hey after a 12 pak of coors lite at lunch, just how straight do you expect Javier to cut anyways??
 
I never said cookie cutter setups didn't run :p just meant it as in everyone sniffs KOR's buttcrack like Charlie Sheen sniffs Kabooshbah's crack LOL

I still havent ordered the top end yet. Still gotta trench the cases. Did go through all the trans gears and shafts and everything is in excellent condition. The clutch basket is surprisingly not messed up from 13 years of super hard riding (i contribute that to the 20w-50 in the bottom end) but we will probably get a new basket anyway.


GET THIS STRAIGHT: I have nothing against KOR except for the fact that he is (i guess this is gunna sound bad here lol) mainstream. I dont like the 'normal' stuff and i never have and never plan to. CT used to be the norm but now they really arent so i have no big problem with that PLUS its my uncles bike and his money going iinto it, I'm just building the motor lol and riding it 60% of the time.

So calm down AWK,, your cookie cutter is fine with me homie
 
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KOR is so popular on this site because he does good work and has excellent customer service. I am currently not aware of any other members that run my motor setup. Good luck with your CT motor, I'm sure it will rip.
 
i think ken has developed a 90 degree fitting just for that particular line fitment issue on those cylinders



good call phrags !
hmmm, wonder who else is building/running +4 long rod 240 engines with falicon balanced cranks ?

but you know, according to some thats just cookie cutter sh*t... till they're picking dust from there teeth I:I

I have a cookie cutter 90 degree fitting and a few hard running cookie cutter cylinders that perform and prove numbers!!! simply amazing:eek:
 
Center the case off of the surface for the outer race of the main bearing. Remove a total of 3mm x .443” for an outside diameter of 3.910” from each case. If you use a Banshee long rod, get the Pro-X version and remove .040” from the diameter of the big end. Use a .187” thick spacer plate and two Cometic base gaskets. You’ll need to build new dowel pins and studs for the cylinder. Dowel pins are .338 ID x .393 OD x .765 long. 8 x 1.25 stud lengths are:
Back right 3.867
Back left 3.658
Front right 2.290
Front left 1.949
 
Center the case off of the surface for the outer race of the main bearing. Remove a total of 3mm x .443” for an outside diameter of 3.910” from each case. If you use a Banshee long rod, get the Pro-X version and remove .040” from the diameter of the big end. Use a .187” thick spacer plate and two Cometic base gaskets. You’ll need to build new dowel pins and studs for the cylinder. Dowel pins are .338 ID x .393 OD x .765 long. 8 x 1.25 stud lengths are:
Back right 3.867
Back left 3.658
Front right 2.290
Front left 1.949

When you know what you are doing, it can get to be like a "cookie cutter" formula. :)

Experience that lets one say "These are the things you do to get it right" is not to be scoffed at,
And it is a big and generous man that shares his hard earned knowledge freely.

Steve