at wits end HELLPPPP please

[AcidRayn]

okay, some of you know i been building a basket case,

see here.... http://www.blasterforum.com/full-rebuilds-128/100-00-98-blasket-case-rebuild-31836/

i got it running last weekend, and it was hard to start, needed starting fluid to get it to fire.
once it warmed up a bit, it wanted to stall and kept backfiring and poping out of the pipe.

the carb was questionable, and had a 310 main jet, so i had a spare, i cleaned it up and put the 310 in. same thing, starting fluid and backfiring.
i put a stock 230 main in, and nothing changed.
the pilot is stock 32.5 and the needle in the center position
air mix screw is at 2 turns, and i tried it in diff spots. no change, still no idle
torrs is disconnected.

i re did a leak down test, and it will hold 7psi all day long

i did a compression test, snap on tester, wide open throtle, kicked it till it stopped rising, 131psi

its a fresh rebuild, top and bottom, all new gaskets and bearings.

its 60 over bore with wiseco ultra lite piston and rings, all yamaha gaskets and seals

it has an aftermarket pipe, i dont know who's, looks like a dg but no name on it, seller said it was custom made outa virgina. it was on quad when i got it.

v force 3 reeds with a spacer.
vitos stuffer crank

i tested the electrical components

spark plug boot is 6.5 k ohms, slightly high, should be 4-6k ohms

primary coil resistance is .5 ohms, and should be 1.44 -1.76
( i have a second one that is reading .6)

secondary coil is 7.95 k ohms. should be 5.28-7.92kohms

source coil is 222.6 ohms and should be 192-288ohms

pickup coil is 19.4 ohms and should be 72-108ohms
(i have a second one that reads 18.5 ohms)

okay, guys have at it.

my questions to you, are the numbers in the manual what i should be going by on the pickup coil and primary coil? i just find it odd that i have 2 of each and both read just about the same.

all opinions welcome.

thanks in advance

 

[Joey_Stacks]

did you advance the timing? Ive heard of this sometimes having negative effects

 

[Zwiser]

sounds electrical

 

[Awk08]

hows the grounds ???? one on the coil and one under the hood on the regulator
and recheck the flywheel/woodruff key
and stop using the starting fluid, it's not getting any oil mixed with it when you do that and your gonna fry that piston
is the old oil injection inlet on the carb plugged off ???
and hows the float level ??? 20 - 21.5mm from where the gasket would sit to top of floats
refer to the troubleshooting maintenence link at the bottom of my sig

but heres something i copied/pasted/saved from another thread.....................

Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.

 

[AcidRayn]

did you advance the timing? Ive heard of this sometimes having negative effects

i didnt advance the timing, its a stock stator

sounds electrical

im sure it is, just cant find it, and im a frigging electrical contractor!!!!!

hows the grounds ???? one on the coil and one under the hood on the regulator
and recheck the flywheel/woodruff key

will do today

and stop using the starting fluid, it's not getting any oil mixed with it when you do that and your gonna fry that piston

ooo, but my knee is screamin, ok, ok, ill stop

is the old oil injection inlet on the carb plugged off ???yes

and hows the float level ??? 20 - 21.5mm from where the gasket would sit to top of floats

at 21 mm, this was one of the first things i checked

refer to the troubleshooting maintenence link at the bottom of my sig

but heres something i copied/pasted/saved from another thread.....................

Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.

i have a test light, lord knows i got tools and test equip, my snap on guy loves me. i will do this today and report back, thanks for the helpp guys. also,i got a pm asking if my airbox is on or off, it is off, no snorkle, think this will have any bearing on this? its gotta be electrical, its doing exact same thing with 2 different carbs and 2 major diff sizes of jets. k, ill lets youse know later

 

[sheeblast]

if you are going to use starting fluid, make sure it has the top end conditioner in it.
ok some things to check
cracked reeds?
pick up gap?
spark plug gap?
does it have good spark?
carb 100% clean and working?

 

[AcidRayn]

if you are going to use starting fluid, make sure it has the top end conditioner in it.

it does not, i got slapped and will use it no mo **sniff**

ok some things to check
cracked reeds?

i had looked at them when i was building it, they came with the 02, i will pull them and look again closer

pick up gap?

is that actually adjustable? if so i did not know. the stator plate went in the way it came out. this bike was not running when i got it, broken rings

spark plug gap?

good

does it have good spark?

seems too. i would like it a bit fatter, but its blue and crisp, pretty thick, guess im used to looking at bigger stuff, if its weak, coil? right?

carb 100% clean and working?

does anyone have an opinion on the readings i got for the coil and pickup coil? they are off from what the book calls for, but are consistent with the readings i got from the other stator set up i have. thanks again for the help and ill report back later

 

[blasterdad]

Did you feed your Mogwai after midnight?
With the advice you've already received you should find your gremlin in no time!
Don't give up! I:I

 

[royalt67]

Pickup coil should be 16-24 ohms, you musta misread the manual. 19 is fine.

Sounds like your coils are both bad, as odd as that is. A primary coil winding reading of .5 ohms is way too low indicating an internal short, bypassing a lot of the windings, giving you a weak spark. Your boot is borderline.

Get a new coil and boot.

Oh, and thanks for doing all the research and testing.

 

[AcidRayn]

ok, this explains some things. i have 2 manuals, both downloaded from here,
take a look,

this kinda crap can make a man beat his woman!

k, guess im goin to buy a coil. im bringing my tester with me and reading it right there.

im off to the garage to clean some grounds. might even throw in the other wiring harness i have just to rule that out.

thanks guys, and some rep's for all whose helping me out

 

[Awk08]

well, that explains what drove me nuts when testing mine, i actually had 3 different stators at 1 point, and still read the wrong readings, finnally fired up my bike, then immedietly pulled that stator and installed in my sons, still no start, finally ripped the wiring harness apart and found a black and a black/white worn and touching

 

[AcidRayn]

Yea those readings made me crazy. I figured if my pickup was so far outa spec, how was I getting any spark at all.
O well. I'm goin to pick up the coil tomorow. It's like $40 so it's not a killer. Just I live so dam far from a dealer. O well. Suck job of this is it's my pain I the ass kids bike. MY RAPTOR RUNS JUST FINE! GAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

 

[Drifz1]

if it has spark , try putting the coke on dont give it any throttle and just kick works for me when she dont wanna start lol

 

[scotj77]

if it has spark , try putting the coke on dont give it any throttle and just kick works for me when she dont wanna start lol

givin a blaster drugs never solved anything. LMAOI:I

 

[AcidRayn]

givin a blaster drugs never solved anything. LMAOI:I

Yea, but if the blaster shares and say had a couple stripper friends, well it could be a good day. Lol

 

[AcidRayn]

just an update:

upon some suggestions by pittboss45 regarding the airbox and tube,

i put the tube and airbox on, and then the filter,

same results, hard start, had to give a tinyyyyy shot of start fluid,

same results

no idle, starts to backfire once its warm, running about 2 min.

goin to the dealer today, they have a coil in stock, i will test with my meter before i buy it

at this rate, i shouldnt have to worry bout break in

 

[AcidRayn]

Ok. Heres he latest. Just got back from the dealer. Stumpys yamaha in belmar nj. Great people. Had a long talk with john the head tech there. We tested a coil off the shelf and the readings are EXACTLY the same as my coil! Soooo that rules out the coil. Putting our heads together we think it's carb. Thinking the choke circuit is clogged. Like he said, why will it fire right up with start fluid but nit choke. He suggested trying put a bit of fuel instead of the start spray. Gonna tear carb apart again and look at the pilot jet and paths as well as the choke pickup tube and metering area. I'll post details.

Gotta say, never had a bike give me this much trouble but I'm enjoying the challenge

 

[sheeblast]

did you not see my post about making sure the carb is 100 percent clean?

 

[AcidRayn]

Yes I did. And felt as though it was good. We went into detail on the choke circuit and feel this may be the prob. I'm azure it's good ni have to go back and double check it

Gettin alot of help and info from here and locally. Well get it goin and all learn something along the way

 

[royalt67]

Wierd about the two manuals and those coil readings. Guess ya can't believe everything ya read....Good luck on the carb. I'm with ya tho, love a good challenge.