Recent content by faster blaster

if you need me to i can post a picture of that gasket i was telling you about, just so you can get an idea

lets talk crank case. are the vent hoses capped off or are they running ventalation back into intake? what shape are they in?

Living Proof here is mine! I:I

my rear brake is no longer working, the inside guts of the caliper is just not good anymore. my front left brake is semi working, and my front right brack seized up and had to be cut. so now i'm looking to purchase some brake cables both front and rear cables and the rear caliper. my question...

Runaway throttle is usually caused by an air leak. one simple thing to check is start with all of your bolts/nuts. for instance i had one of my four nuts come loose where the cylinder jug meets the crank and it caused a bad air leak in which my throttle went nutso and when i shifted into 4th...

voltage regulator most likely, sounds bad, you need to test it. there is an electronic blaster manual on this forum under the diy section, it will show you how to troubleshoot and test the voltage regulator, control unit, and c.d.i. unit. good luck

make sure you are using the correct plugs as well, Ngk .032 gap. there are other supplement plugs but are not recommended as much. also, this may be a long shot, but where you connect the exhaust to the engine cylinder jug, there is a circular aluminum gasket that the exhaust is supposed to fit...

can you give a better description of what it does as far as what gear it's in when it does it and does it rev high or bog low?

mine has done this too, ive had electrical problems, i would have to agree this is being caused by either tors or another electrical unit, i would start with tors though!

?? man i hope someone has an answer for you, i posted a thred exactly like this one called "runaway throttle", everyone said either tors or air leak, my tors is completely disable, i also even bought a new tors brain and hooked it all back up, still same problem, and no air leaks anywhere, mine...

your air screw adjusment needs to be= turn it to the right all the way to cloase air completely, then rotate counterclockwise (left/open) 1 1/2 turns to set to stock adjustments. from there you "tune" it by moving it left slowly until you get the desired setting. reccomend getting a 230 jet for...

btw the directions in the diy section by sparky was for 88-02 years also. i know though there has been a post on here about the newer years tors systems. if you look through this foum you will find it, i just don't remember exactly where it was

naw i dont think your dumb, the directions i gave you where for years 88-02. i didn't know you had a newer model. sorry i cant help you there

the tors brain is the little black box with three wires coming out that go into a triangular shaped conector. wire colors are solid black, black w.white stripe, and yellow w/black stripe. box is located under the left fender on the frame usually above the cdi black box. the cdi has 5 wires...

i will have to check that, my hoses were capped off since oil injection was removed. but it doesn't make sense to do the water/soap test since the carb sucks in and doesn't blow out. i don't want water & soap in the carb, don't believe it's very combustible. i wish it where, we wouldn't be...