One of my friends dropped his blaster off at my house for me to look at since im layed off and have all the time in the world to mess with stuff now. Here is the background on it. He bought the blaster with a blown up motor, had it bored out, put new piston and rings in it, and put it all back together with all new gaskets. The oil injection system is also off the blaster and he premixes his gas 32/1. He said that the first time it started up the motor ran away on him but he got it shut down fairly quickly. Im assuming he got it started up ok after that because he said it ran good in 1st thru 3rd gear but 4th thru 6th it lost power. When he went to bring it over to the house he couldn't get it started. Now it sets in my garage. Im not that familiar with 2 strokes but I know the theory behind them. I put a compression checker on it and kicked it over 3 or 4 times and it read 125 psi. I put a spark checker in the plug boot and it jumped a pretty big gap. I put the plug (NGK B8ES with a .7mm gap) in the boot and held it to the jug and it had good spark. I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out. I have the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out. I pulled the reeds out and they seemed to look ok from what i know. I put it all back together, put some known good fuel in it, and still can't get it to fire. It backfires every once in awhile and it did studder for about 3 seconds thats it. I have pulled the plug out several times after kicking it over 10 -15 times and the plug is always wet but since it hasnt been firing im guessing this is normal. So, I have spark, compression, and fuel but no fire. I tried using starting fluid once but got nothing. I have disconnected the exhaust after the silencer to make sure nothing is plugged and pulled the intake hose off to make sure it is getting air. It's not making any logical since to me so im looking here for help! Is there any way you could get the timing off 180 deg. on these things? Thanks!
Can't get this thing started!!
- Thread starter bryanstang
- Start date
i dont belive you can get the timing off like that.
but re-check in the whole intake and make sure everythings all good. could be an air leak if it took off on him like you said when he first got it back together.
did he use all new gaskets? could also be an air leak through the base gasket(bottom of jug)
but re-check in the whole intake and make sure everythings all good. could be an air leak if it took off on him like you said when he first got it back together.
did he use all new gaskets? could also be an air leak through the base gasket(bottom of jug)
sounds like a tors issue to me, also check for a airleak if you had a runaway throttle haha.
and the boggin threw 4-6th would probably be some kind of jetting issue
and the boggin threw 4-6th would probably be some kind of jetting issue
The machine shop ordered him all new gaskets when he had the work done but ??? If I block off the exhaust and put the piston at BDC can I do a leak down test and look for air leaks on the outside with soappy water? How much pressure can that side of the motor hold? 80 psi? I would hate to brake the reeds.
check the woodruf key, and the wiring from the stator, it could have a short. i would unplug the tors from the carb just to eliminate that also
Take the air filter off and try to start it. You are pulling the choke all the way out when you try to start, right? You've got fuel, spark....got air? The jetting may be way off
Well, the woodruf key is fine. I was really hoping to find it sheared off so I would know what is going on. I blocked off the exhaust and put 40 psi of air into the spark plug hole with the piston at bdc. I could hear it blowing out through the air box. In my mind, the reeds are there to keep this from happening. Is that right? I pulled the reed cage out to look at them a little more closely and found that one of the reeds was flipped upside down becouse the corners of the reed and reed stop didnt match up. Im not sure if this would cause a problem or not. I went ahead and flipped it back over so they matched up and I noticed the tips of the reed were slightly bent up away from the cage. Is it ok to flip the reeds over if they are bent? I am going to go ahead and order new ones just because it seems like the right thing to do and im running out of places to turn. I have also disconnected the tors just to be sure there is no problems there. Any more thoughts? Thanks for all your help so far!
Check the float level. If I remember right, it should be between 20 and 21.5 mm measured from the the bottom of the float to the mating surface of the carb while holding the carb upside down.
i was having the same problem, mine turned out to be a bad connection to the sensor behined the parking brake/clutch lever
Runaway throttle is usually caused by an air leak. one simple thing to check is start with all of your bolts/nuts. for instance i had one of my four nuts come loose where the cylinder jug meets the crank and it caused a bad air leak in which my throttle went nutso and when i shifted into 4th gear while clutch was engaged it would throttle very high til it disengaged then would bog out in 4th and higher gears beause air/fuel mixture was way off due to leak, being in a higher gear, it had too much air and not enough fuel, so of course it fell on its face. Check all the nuts to make sure they are tight, and who knows it could be a gasket doing it too.
i trulely do not beleve this has anything to do with tors since one of the first things noted was that the throttle ran away and he was able to kill it HIMSELF. Tors would have killed it if it was working properly. So your tors most likley does not work on one of it's three connections. Just because the tors might not be working 100%, you will still get spark, which comes from your c.d.i. orange wire, and other cdi magneto/stator wires. good luck, let us know how she goes I:I
i trulely do not beleve this has anything to do with tors since one of the first things noted was that the throttle ran away and he was able to kill it HIMSELF. Tors would have killed it if it was working properly. So your tors most likley does not work on one of it's three connections. Just because the tors might not be working 100%, you will still get spark, which comes from your c.d.i. orange wire, and other cdi magneto/stator wires. good luck, let us know how she goes I:I
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