i got a 01 thats been giving me problems since i got it, first the reeds kept breaking, I put on a set of vf3s that cured that problem, now the woodruf key keeps breaking, Ill replace it starts on first kick, throw it in gear move five feet an its sheared. It sits and idles, goes WOT until I put it in gear. Anyone had this problem, if so I could use a little info on how to cure this. My engine is bone stock from what I can tell inside, Its got a LRD adj pipe, VF3 reeds, and a PJ 34 carb. tors deleted? and oil inj delete.
woodruff keeps breaking
- Thread starter yamerhammer00
- Start date
just put in a new key, put impact on it, first kick it started fine, idled, took a couple revs no problem.....put it in gear, got three foot with out giving it any help on the throttle and it sheared the key again....WTF it idles forever without shearing, itll rapp out without shearing, but put it gear it shears?
Alright, get some valve lapping compound from an auto parts store tomorrow. Slide the flywheel on without the key in place and valve lapping compound in between the taper. When the flywheel starts to grab against the shaft, pull it back off and rub the compound back into the taper. Do this a few times and then remove the flywheel and see any high spots. Relap as necessary until there are no visible high spots. Reinstall with a new key and tighten to specs and it shouldn't shear it again.
Ya even the first time I took it off I had to use a puller.. when I put it back on I make sure its straight and tight.
It's got high spots on one or the other side. The high spots means it is allowed to spin easily but it's also gouged in necessitating the puller to remove.
Lapping compound. probably work it for about an hour and clean it off and you won't mess with it again.
Lapping compound. probably work it for about an hour and clean it off and you won't mess with it again.
Mike, you're right. Yamerhammer, you're supposed to torque it with a flywheel holding tool and a torque wrench.
Yeah, but everybody does it. The prob is there is no way to know how tight it is, unless you use a torque wrench. I like civic's lapping idea, that flywheel is not seating correctly.
ok so no impact...Ill put that in the memory bank. Well i got some more keys and the compound, which came with a coarse grit and fine grit. Which should I use? and how does this stuff work? Im going to start in on it in the morning. Hopefully this works....if not, what else can I do?
When you take the flyhweel off, look at the tapered section of the crank. Let that be your guide for which lapping compound to use.
If it's not scarred up at all, go with fine. It doesn't even have to look like it's bad to not be seating properly, all it takes is one high spot for it to be out of round where only two little spots of the crank are hitting the taper inside of the flywheel.
If there are any scars in the metal, go with the coarse and work it heavily. If it is messed up, wipe the lapping compound off occasionally and work new in. The course tends to turn into the fine the longer you work it...
Oh, do this and you won't need any other plan. This is how it's done to fix the problem you have.
If it's not scarred up at all, go with fine. It doesn't even have to look like it's bad to not be seating properly, all it takes is one high spot for it to be out of round where only two little spots of the crank are hitting the taper inside of the flywheel.
If there are any scars in the metal, go with the coarse and work it heavily. If it is messed up, wipe the lapping compound off occasionally and work new in. The course tends to turn into the fine the longer you work it...
Oh, do this and you won't need any other plan. This is how it's done to fix the problem you have.
After a couple hours of working on the crank shaft and flywheel I got everything put back together just past noon. Working the lapping took a majority of the time, because both the crank and flywheel were crap. But all that time paid off because after it was all put together I really wanted to see if it would work...It started on first kick, idled smoother and.......I took the Lil Buzzbomb for a ride the rest of the day and its just now getin to be almost elevin around here and Im just getting in, no sheared key ,no problems what so ever!!!....besides ran outta gas hehe forgot to check that. Civc thank you for your help this totally made my day....
ahh the sweet smell of a job well done...
Good call, Civic, and a great idea to fix the prob. Certainly one I will be filing away. I would give you rep but it hasn't been long enough for me!!
great writeup civicdude! hit the nail on the head with that one. that is always a great feeling. rep given w/ a little extra for royal-T
That's the bees knees with any tapered shaft that transmits torque.
Also, you're supposed to clean all tapers with solvent before installing them. Acetone is a good choice before installation although around the crank seal you'd have to be very careful.
The best bet on the blaster engine is to thoroughly wipe the shaft down with a very clean towel without anything on it to risk that crank seal but if you are filing that information away for later, you might want to note the solvent thing.
Also, you're supposed to clean all tapers with solvent before installing them. Acetone is a good choice before installation although around the crank seal you'd have to be very careful.
The best bet on the blaster engine is to thoroughly wipe the shaft down with a very clean towel without anything on it to risk that crank seal but if you are filing that information away for later, you might want to note the solvent thing.
off hand i believe it's 53 ft. lbs.
but that info is definately in here.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
