Picked up

[GIXER7502006]

A WHAT I THINK TOP BE A 99 KAWASAKI PARRIE 4X4 300 couldnt find the vin and if i remember right awk had a manual pdf
the guy locked up the rear brakes and wheel bearing from wheat i can tell the ring n pinion look to be fine but im havn trouble getting the axel out it is loose but seemd like it is stuck on a sleeve and wont siled through the housing on the pinion side any help


http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k101/mitsfinmgr/KAWA.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k101/mitsfinmgr/KAWAWHEELS.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k...1406708905510_1766059142_677540_6199168_n.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k..._1406707905485_1766059142_677538_833052_n.jpg

 

[sicivicdude]

Looks familiar... I have a prairie 400 4x4.

The axle nuts are on the right end of the rear-end (looking from the back of the quad) so the shaft has to slide out of the left side. However, I believe it's trapped by the diff bearing on the far left end of the axle... you have to remove the rear pumpkin from the axle to remove the axle. The easiest way is to disconnect the brake cables and vent line and undo the nuts that hold the rear pumpkin onto the axle shaft and then the four bolts that go through the swingarm into the bracket made onto the rear end. The rearend can then be guided away from the swingarm driveshaft tube (guide it away too, the pinion seal has a coupler tube up against it and can be easily damaged if you slam it hard enough).

Either that^^^ or take the two swingarm pivot bolt caps off and use an 8mm hex wrench to back the "bolts" out so the swingarm can be pulled from out between the frame and then pulled away. That's usually a little more difficult to achieve reassembly that way because then you have to fight the rubber boot sealing the swingarm driveshaft tube to the sidecase on the engine while trying to line up the U-joint splines and the sidebox shaft splines...

 

[GIXER7502006]

I hav the pinion gear off and I'm tryn to slide the axle out the left side looking from the back, but it goes so far and stops like there is a axel sleve holding from it coming out, almost like the axel is to thick, it stops where the axel tube and the pumkin meet

sounds like if i understand you right i need to remove the axel tube from the pumkin and then slide the axel out

 

[GIXER7502006]

UPDATE

I got home last night and was looking at the axel to remove the housing tube and when i put the axel back in it started to turneasy so i put it all back togeather fresh gear lube in the rear end and
half hour later I was riding through a mud hole
no reverse but ran perfect and no noise out of the rear end at all
reverse was takin out when it was frooze in place and I tried to hold the engine speed up and jam it in to get it to break loose, now reverse dont work but everything else does
anyone ever hav one of those tranny's out and if so how diffacult of a job was it

 

[sicivicdude]

I've had a prairie 300 4X4 transmission out. We had one the shift rod bearing wore out which caused the drive dog for "high" to explode locking up the works.

I can't remember if the main shaft or the reverse shaft is chained.... it's one on one model and the other on the other but I can't remember which one!

I think the P300 had a chain drive reverse idler shaft. If it does, it's possible some FOD is stuck in the chain.

You will have to pull the engine out of the frame and split the cases to figure out what's wrong. The good news is, the actual transmission is VERY simple. It's a two speed positive drive dog forward gears and one reverse idler shaft.

The output (counter) shaft goes through the left side case and to a bevel gear case to turn the shafts towards the front and rear.

 

[Awk08]

awk does have a manual, but it's for a 99 kef 300 lakota, which is chain driven and wouldnt be of any help for the rear end, but prolly help for the engine assembly,
pm if you'd like me to get that to ya

 

[sicivicdude]

That manual would be good but for the top end only.

The lakota and bayou 300 were VERY similar (the output shaft is different but the rest is the same) but the prairie 300 is an automatic transmission and the transmission is very different.

 

[Awk08]

That manual would be good but for the top end only.

The lakota and bayou 300 were VERY similar (the output shaft is different but the rest is the same) but the prairie 300 is an automatic transmission and the transmission is very different.

automatic as in how ???? cause this lakota had no manual clutch lever, just the centrifugal type inside the clutch cover,
but did have 5 gears < which i call an automatic 5 speed ?????

 

[sicivicdude]

automatic as in how ???? cause this lakota had no manual clutch lever, just the centrifugal type inside the clutch cover,
but did have 5 gears < which i call an automatic 5 speed ?????

I call the lakota and bayou auto clutch (or automatic 5 speed is a GREAT name for it too).

The prairie 300 is a CVT automatic. FULLY automatic. It has a selector beside the tank for High, Low, Neutral, or Reverse. You cannot change the "gear" you're in once you're moving without a NASTY clash.

The prairie and brute's are all CVT automatics (unless you count the 80's model "prairie" 3 wheeler which I don't) bayou and lakota's are auto clutches, majove's are manual's.

 

[Awk08]

gotcha, thanx for clearin that up, so like you said the kef manual wont be much help for him

 

[sicivicdude]

It would be handy for the top end specs. When he gets ready to install the timing chain parts and such.