Fuel cell
- Thread starter sicivicdude
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Well, one could be made close to the stock size, but why? The stock tank works so well except for drag racing...
Well, if you go through the trouble and expensive to make a "hood" to fit a dragger, the tank cover is usually lined up with it. In order to make one that's rounded like the tank cover, you'd need a huge amount of stamping and pressing dies and machinery. It would be VERY expensive to build one that way.
I believe this is the best compromise of the bunch really. It fits the design criteria (light and very strong with the fuel centered below the filler neck with ~1gallon capacity and a 1/4 FPT fitting on the bottom) while being relatively easy and inexpensive to construct with basic tooling.
I believe this is the best compromise of the bunch really. It fits the design criteria (light and very strong with the fuel centered below the filler neck with ~1gallon capacity and a 1/4 FPT fitting on the bottom) while being relatively easy and inexpensive to construct with basic tooling.
Looks good james. Nice job. Just out of curiosity what is the weight difference between a stocker and this drag tank? I always wondered if there was any weight savings between the two.
The difference on this one is negligible. Making an aluminum tank that fits on the stock tank mounts but isn't the same size as stock means it has to have a little "wasted" aluminum in order to mount it to the frame.
The final numbers are in. Empty with their respective caps installed a stock tank weighs 3.2lbs. This fuel cell weighs 2.7 lbs so it is lighter but not significantly lighter.
The area where it DOES save some weight is in the amount of fuel required to make sure you don't run out on a run. The minimum you can run on a standard fuel tank to make SURE you don't run out during extremely heavy accels is ~1/2 gallon. With this, as little as one pint is required to ensure steady fuel flow.
The difference in weight? Approximately 3 lbs (7 lbs per gallon, half gallon is 3.5 lbs while one pint is like .75 lbs).
The area where it DOES save some weight is in the amount of fuel required to make sure you don't run out on a run. The minimum you can run on a standard fuel tank to make SURE you don't run out during extremely heavy accels is ~1/2 gallon. With this, as little as one pint is required to ensure steady fuel flow.
The difference in weight? Approximately 3 lbs (7 lbs per gallon, half gallon is 3.5 lbs while one pint is like .75 lbs).
Yet anouther benefit would be it keeping the fuel fresher. Plastic breaths.
This is why you see old dirtbikes with their tank stickers all bubbled up.
Certain fuels with certain things added to them have very 'light ends' that literally escape and evaporate over a matter of hours.
Nice tank big man I:I
This is why you see old dirtbikes with their tank stickers all bubbled up.
Certain fuels with certain things added to them have very 'light ends' that literally escape and evaporate over a matter of hours.
Nice tank big man I:I
Looks like I'm going to be building one for myself now. My fuel pump simply isn't "cutting the mustard".
i just happened to see you guys were talking about leak testing it. either meth, kerosene, nitro methane will work just fine for the aluminum. however i would not only leak test it, but i would also use a ball or bicycle tire pump to pressure test it with some of the fuels mentioned inside it at the same time. vapor escapes easier than liquid. tiny or unseeable pin holes can come from pulling or pushing the bead around when welding.
weather its gas, meth or alcohol. when agitated, sitting in the sun or both. expansion of the gases will occur. your welds look very solid, so i highly doubt that it could cause one of the joints to fail as its usually no more than 2-5 psi expansion rate. but... ive seen crazier things happen.
prob things you already know. but just some food for thought. incase anyone else is goin to make one... i have a feeling ill need to when i do the ninja swap.
weather its gas, meth or alcohol. when agitated, sitting in the sun or both. expansion of the gases will occur. your welds look very solid, so i highly doubt that it could cause one of the joints to fail as its usually no more than 2-5 psi expansion rate. but... ive seen crazier things happen.
prob things you already know. but just some food for thought. incase anyone else is goin to make one... i have a feeling ill need to when i do the ninja swap.
The tank cap is open vented. There is no way to build pressure inside that tank.
The tank pictured actually does have a spot like you describe though. The one pictured was the first and made using the old welder which required more "pushing".
I've said "send it back!" but the owner applied a tooth pick tip sized dap of epoxy and is going to run it. Apparently sitting for some length of time it would form a wet spot right in the middle of the weld. I'm sure left long enough it would run down and drip but was apparently small enough that it didn't actually drip while he was watching it.
The tank pictured actually does have a spot like you describe though. The one pictured was the first and made using the old welder which required more "pushing".
I've said "send it back!" but the owner applied a tooth pick tip sized dap of epoxy and is going to run it. Apparently sitting for some length of time it would form a wet spot right in the middle of the weld. I'm sure left long enough it would run down and drip but was apparently small enough that it didn't actually drip while he was watching it.
I find that a bar of common hand washing soap is great for fixing fuel leaks, it is impervious to fuel.
Rub the bar of soap on the hole or crack, instant fix.
Rub the bar of soap on the hole or crack, instant fix.
i meant a pin hole leak could let gas vapors out in a spray, the spray of fuel could eat away at the joining of the 2 pieces, as the actual weld tends to be more porus than the metal. blowing out little bits of aluminum particles as it sprays out the hole. if it wasnt vented. like a gas can bloating in the heat
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