Blaster wont run

Can i just plug the oil line going in to my carb and plug the lines where the line comes out of tank and just mix it 32:1 from now on?
Not a recommended idea, the oil pump would now be unlubricated, not good for it.

The pump should be removed/disabled.

If you change to premix you need increase the main jet size by one for 32:1 and by two for 25:1.
 
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Make sure if you use RTV that you use it sparingly, you do not want any to squeeze out into the intake duct.

For goodness sake do not be so impatient to blow up the engine before you leak test it.

The "I just wanna ride" scenario has killed many an engine!

Stainless is good but only at 5.8 ft lbs, diagonally and incrementally [ a little bit at a time]
Ok so i got 4 new bolts rtv'ed the basket and boot torqued to 6lbs and put new key in torqued to 54lbs. Started first kick and ran perfect (except from the carb dumping out gas i order a rebuild kit). Also what size jets should i use with the boyesen pro series reeds? And what can i do to get more low end torque?
 
Make sure if you use RTV that you use it sparingly, you do not want any to squeeze out into the intake duct.

For goodness sake do not be so impatient to blow up the engine before you leak test it.

The "I just wanna ride" scenario has killed many an engine!

Stainless is good but only at 5.8 ft lbs, diagonally and incrementally [ a little bit at a time]
Ok so i got 4 new bolts rtv'ed the basket and boot torqued to 6lbs and put new key in torqued to 54lbs. Started first kick and ran perfect (except from the carb dumping out gas i order a rebuild kit). Also what size jets should i use with the boyesen pro series reeds? And what can i do to get more low end torque?
 
Also what size jets should i use with the boyesen pro series reeds? And what can i do to get more low end torque?

Did it pass the leak test before you rode it?

Reeds need no jet changes.

If you want more at the wheels you need to decrease the size of the front sprocket or increase the rear one.

To move the power you have to come on stronger at a lower rev a reed spacer between the red block and jug and/or a +4 deg timing mod.
 
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Ok so i got 4 new bolts rtv'ed the basket and boot torqued to 6lbs and put new key in torqued to 54lbs. Started first kick and ran perfect (except from the carb dumping out gas i order a rebuild kit). Also what size jets should i use with the boyesen pro series reeds? And what can i do to get more low end torque?
Better fix the flooding problem as too much fuel in the carb will give a false idle setting which in turn will interfere with the needle and main jetting.

Too much fuel will give a false sense of security and may cover up a devastating air leak.
 
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Better fix the flooding problem as too much fuel in the carb will give a false idle setting which in turn will interfere with the needle and main jetting.

Too much fuel will give a false sense of security and may cover up a devastating air leak.
Thank you i ordered a rebuild kit for it hopefully comes in soon!!!
 
Did it pass the leak test before you rode it?

Reeds need no jet changes.

If you want more at the wheels you need to decrease the size of the front sprocket or increase the rear one.

To move the power you have to come on stronger at a lower rev a reed spacer between the red block and jug and/or a +4 deg timing mod.
If i buy a reed spacer do i have to mess with anything else jets etc?
 
Ok so I'm putting it in the shop he is boreing it 20 over and putting in bigger jets (what size is recommend with this bore and K&N air filter) also rebuilding carb. What will the cc be after the bore?
 
Ok so I'm putting it in the shop he is boreing it 20 over and putting in bigger jets (what size is recommend with this bore and K&N air filter) also rebuilding carb. What will the cc be after the bore?
 
absolutely yes. you're lucky it didn't fry completely.
the intake is the biggest offender for airleaks even with 4 bolts.
Ok so I'm putting it in the shop he is boreing it 20 over and putting in bigger jets (what size is recommend with this bore and K&N air filter) also rebuilding carb. What will the cc be after the bore?
 
Correct procedure is 3 - 5 heat cycles, re tension head and jug bolts, then ride 2 tanks of gas at no more than 3/4 throttle, at varying revs.

One reason for 3/4 throttle is to keep it off the main circuit until the rings have bedded.

By keeping it off the main jet, damage can be avoided if one has chosen the wrong size jet prior to plug chop.

Another reason for the lower throttle opening is to avoid the extreme pressures that push the rings outward toward the cylinder, which will prematurely wear material from the rings and cross hatching of the bore.

I consider 2 tanks sufficient to semi glaze the bore and fully bed the rings.

 
Correct procedure is 3 - 5 heat cycles, re tension head and jug bolts, then ride 2 tanks of gas at no more than 3/4 throttle, at varying revs.

One reason for 3/4 throttle is to keep it off the main circuit until the rings have bedded.

By keeping it off the main jet, damage can be avoided if one has chosen the wrong size jet prior to plug chop.

Another reason for the lower throttle opening is to avoid the extreme pressures that push
Correct procedure is 3 - 5 heat cycles, re tension head and jug bolts, then ride 2 tanks of gas at no more than 3/4 throttle, at varying revs.

One reason for 3/4 throttle is to keep it off the main circuit until the rings have bedded.

By keeping it off the main jet, damage can be avoided if one has chosen the wrong size jet prior to plug chop.

Another reason for the lower throttle opening is to avoid the extreme pressures that push the rings outward toward the cylinder, which will prematurely wear material from the rings and cross hatching of the bore.

I consider 2 tanks sufficient to semi glaze the bore and fully bed the rings.

i dont get this part. By keeping it off the main jet, damage can be avoided if one has chosen the wrong size jet prior to plug chop.
 
The correct way to see if an engine is jetted correctly is to do a WOT plug chop.

If you WOT a fresh build you can shorten the life of the engine by excessive ring wear.

It is not wise to do a WOT plug chop on a fresh engine.

The main jet comes on at above 3/4 throttle.

If you have chosen the incorrect main jet, then by keeping at no more than 3/4 throttle, you should not fear a too lean a mixture.