Here lies your problem, me thinks.
Check the cage for warp, and seal and tension to specs.
Blaster wont run
- Thread starter BrianHemphill
- Start date
Check the cage for warp, and seal and tension to specs.
I will do that when my new ones get here tommorow and why would it run and idle but then die? Could that of been my stator?
That sounds like float level, crap in the needle and seat, blocked tank breather.
If it starts the stator should be ok.
I have to go out now, fill me in later.
re
Ok so i changed my reeds out with pro series boyesen and some how i broke a bolt puting them back in of course wasnt even to 8lbs yet but also took tors off IT STARTS!!!! But rode it down the rode and revved high so i killed it then wouldn't start so took off the flywheel cover.....sheared my key of course so i have a spare but the bike had no power but would idle only high tho it felt like it was bogging?? Any thoughts? (Air leak b/c i only have 3 bolts holding in reeds??)
absolutely yes. you're lucky it didn't fry completely.
the intake is the biggest offender for airleaks even with 4 bolts.
Yup.
Although, i heard eggs cooked over easy on the cylinder head are quite tasty....
I heard fried eggs on the motor are good eaten... i didnt say eggs fried the motor
Eggs have absolutely nothing to do with the engine....
An air leak does what it sounds like. It allows air to enter the engine without you knowing.
Extra air makes a leaned condition when running, causing extra heat and eventually a fried piston.
Now, about those eggs...
An air leak does what it sounds like. It allows air to enter the engine without you knowing.
Extra air makes a leaned condition when running, causing extra heat and eventually a fried piston.
Now, about those eggs...
Where did you get the figure 8 ft lbs, no wonder the bolt broke, the correct tension is 5.8 ft lbs.
Over tightening the bolts will warp the cage and create an air leak, the AFR will be so lean on gas that it will cook the piston in a few moments.
Break one of those over tight bolts and you will have an open door for the air to rush in = very lean mixture = BOOM!
RVT should work. Thin bead both sides of gasket and on boot side. As mentioned, over tightening may have warped the cage, and may even warped boot flange and maybe even cylinder mount.
Highly suggest leakdown test after assembly.
Highly suggest leakdown test after assembly.
Thank you and what if i get this on and it runs and i order a leakdown tester and ride it till it gets here what can happen? Motor fry? B/c after i rtv really good i doubt the boot or cage will leak but if i have another seal that leaks what could it do thanks. Also i bought all new stainless steel grade 8 bolts for the reed cage should these work or is stainless bad to use?
Make sure if you use RTV that you use it sparingly, you do not want any to squeeze out into the intake duct.
For goodness sake do not be so impatient to blow up the engine before you leak test it.
The "I just wanna ride" scenario has killed many an engine!
Stainless is good but only at 5.8 ft lbs, diagonally and incrementally [ a little bit at a time]
For goodness sake do not be so impatient to blow up the engine before you leak test it.
The "I just wanna ride" scenario has killed many an engine!
Stainless is good but only at 5.8 ft lbs, diagonally and incrementally [ a little bit at a time]
Can i just plug the oil line going in to my carb and plug the lines where the line comes out of tank and just mix it 32:1 from now on?
