I had the same problem with mine a year ago. come to find out it had the stock 230 main in. Mine would run good for about 20 min then bog and cutoff.
Blaster wont run
- Thread starter BrianHemphill
- Start date
I had the same problem with mine a year ago. come to find out it had the stock 230 main in. Mine would run good for about 20 min then bog and cutoff.
The one directly in the middle took a screenshot off YouTube and air screw is at 1.5 (3 half turns)
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that idle screw is not stock, it is part of a tors delete kit. the stock idle screw is on top of the tors brick under the seat/tank
which does yours have ?
there will still be a cast boss that appears to need an idle screw, but unless it was drilled thru and tapped for tors idle screw, it does not actually go into the carb throat.
Ok and yes i have the big flat head screw on top of tors what does the tors even do?
Yes it was running too lean and getting hot. It would cutoff and not start for 30 min. I upped the main and solved the issue before i ruined my new topend
Check the main. Was your motor getting really hot? If its not starting at all now it seems like you may have fried the topend. are you running a b8es plug?
Yea still have stock plugs everything is stock and yea i think it was getting hot but idk what its suppose to get at and if i have 130 compression how is my top end fried and it will only start when you kick it as hard as you can but run like sh*t and die
Have you tried turning out the airscrew on the left side of the carb? Seems like your jetting is out of whack everywhere. Also is the idle set?
3 half turns is 1 1/2 turns I do believe.I am stumped then i have great spark , 130 compression with throttle wide open and ten kicks , clean carb 100% TWICE! Exhaust isn't clogged. But i was watching a video on how to tune your carb and it says 3 half turns for the air screw but the rpm screw or somthing is missing on my carb??? Could this be the problem????
I had to read the post a few times for that terminology to sink in.
Set your float level, adjust the idle and make sure that the needle is on the middle clip setting.
While the carb is off do a leak test, if it passes, then it should idle and run correctly with small throttle openings.
Do a WOT plug chop to confirm your jetting.
In answer to your Throttle Over Ride System, it is designed to cut the spark if the engine shows signs of over revving, the TORS system is best removed.
While the carb is off do a leak test, if it passes, then it should idle and run correctly with small throttle openings.
Do a WOT plug chop to confirm your jetting.
In answer to your Throttle Over Ride System, it is designed to cut the spark if the engine shows signs of over revving, the TORS system is best removed.
If the float level has been upset and is not allowing fuel into the carb, then it will not start.
You can check the level of fuel in the carb by fitting a clear hose onto the drain nipple and lifting the hose up past the float bowl.
Crack the drain screw and the fuel should be level with carby body just above the float bowl gasket.
You can check the level of fuel in the carb by fitting a clear hose onto the drain nipple and lifting the hose up past the float bowl.
Crack the drain screw and the fuel should be level with carby body just above the float bowl gasket.
So if i do the hose trick and it is just above the gasket then it should be fine? And if i delet my tors system but leave it on my carb can anything bad happen? ThAnk you !!!!
