Blaster wont run

BrianHemphill

New Member
Mar 5, 2014
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To start off i have a 2003 blaster that i just bought and it ran fine when i bought it first kick , idle good but when i rode it for about 15-20 mins it bogs and dies then wont start till later but now it wont start at all unless you pull start it with a truck but runs like crap and dies instantly. I have 120 compression , changed my stator have great spark , carbs clean ,my reeds look ok i cant see a gap but they have a yellow tint to them ( can bad reeds not make your bike start?) PLS HELP!!!
 
Use Blaster flywheel puller and check flywheel key. NO 2-3 jaw pullers. Did you set float level? Did you blow air through all passages and jets? Good fuel flow from tank into carb?
 
BTW, Welcome !!!
Thank you! And i just ordered a flywheel puller offline i took it some where to get it done but what key are you talking about? And how do you set the float?? I thought it just sits there and you put a pin in it. I cleaned my carb pretty good but i am going to do it again when i get home today . And do you know if bad reeds can not make it start? Thank you HIGHLY APPRECIATED
 
When you take the flywheel off there is a key that locates the flywheel in the correct position for the timing.

Bad reeds can make for bad starting.

Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.

It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
 
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When you take the flywheel off there is a key that locates the flywheel in the correct position for the timing.

Bad reeds can make for bad starting.

Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.

It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
How do i check my float level? And cant the flywheel only go on one way b/c of the keyway?
 
And why does it run for 15-20 till it bogs down and die? Then once it cools down it will start but now it completely stop running!!
 
There are many stickys to read in this forum that can tell you all you need to know about leak testing and other wonderful tidbits of info on your blaster
 
Get a compression reading before it starts, then one when it won't start. Sounds like time for a top end rebuild to me.
 
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Thank you! And i just ordered a flywheel puller offline i took it some where to get it done but what key are you talking about? And how do you set the float?? I thought it just sits there and you put a pin in it. I cleaned my carb pretty good but i am going to do it again when i get home today . And do you know if bad reeds can not make it start? Thank you HIGHLY APPRECIATED

from that /\.........is the float pin hooked onto the tab of the floats ?

adjusting floats: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

proper carb cleaning: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carbureutor.254/

adjusting airscrew/pilot: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/


bad reeds will = no start, but you said they looked ok ?
 
from that /\.........is the float pin hooked onto the tab of the floats ?

adjusting floats: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

proper carb cleaning: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carbureutor.254/

adjusting airscrew/pilot: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/


bad reeds will = no start, but you said they looked ok ?
Well i never messed with reeds i just see theres the smallest gap on the side and they look burnt but i dont know i order boysen reeds and yes the float pin is hooked on the float
 
Well i never messed with reeds i just see theres the smallest gap on the side and they look burnt but i dont know i order boysen reeds and yes the float pin is hooked on the float

if all 4 reed petals are intact, and not a large gap, it should at least be starting.
the back pressure from the cylinder will push them closed.
 
if all 4 reed petals are intact, and not a large gap, it should at least be starting.
the back pressure from the cylinder will push them closed.
I am stumped then i have great spark , 130 compression with throttle wide open and ten kicks , clean carb 100% TWICE! Exhaust isn't clogged. But i was watching a video on how to tune your carb and it says 3 half turns for the air screw but the rpm screw or somthing is missing on my carb??? Could this be the problem???? :mad:
 
I am stumped then i have great spark , 130 compression with throttle wide open and ten kicks , clean carb 100% TWICE! Exhaust isn't clogged. But i was watching a video on how to tune your carb and it says 3 half turns for the air screw but the rpm screw or somthing is missing on my carb??? Could this be the problem???? :mad:

not sure what video you watched, but any carb that requires 3 turns of the airscrew to acheive highest idle has too large of pilot.
IF...it's a stock blaster 26mm mikuni w/ stock 32.5 pilot, the airscrew should be around 1.5 turns out.
IF it's leakdown tested airleak free.

airscrew/pilot adjustment:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

airscrew or idle screw is missing ?
if airscrew ? you have a major airleak, replace before ever even starting it again.
IF idle screw ? on top of tors brick ? (stock location accessed under seat/fuel tank)
if on carb body (tors delete kit location) = major airleak, and must be fixed before any tuning/running can happen.

pics of missing screw ?