Think of voltage kind of like water in a bucket and amperage as the hole in the bottom. you may have 5 gallons or 500, but its the flow out of the hole that does the work.
blaster battery ??
- Thread starter natureboyeli
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yes , It sounds like it would be an alternative , a small camera flash capacitor actually produces 300 volts , from the source voltage of 6v , it uses a set of transformers to first turn 6v into 300v then 300v to 5000v to get the xenon gas in the tube to light up. the 300v capacitor is all you would need to kick over the HID bulbs , because the HID balast has the second stage transformer in it . Hmmmmmmm this could be interesting
haha u ever make a tazer with a disposable it hurtslike a biotch, hehe and is almost guarantede to make yur friends want to kill u,
ps i got my ex gf in the foot while she was sleeping omfg that was funny
haha u ever make a tazer with a disposable it hurtslike a biotch, hehe and is almost guarantede to make yur friends want to kill u,
ps i got my ex gf in the foot while she was sleeping omfg that was funny
Actually the capcitor doesn't produce anything, it just stores that energy, to be released when needed, lose the power to it and the capcitor will discharge much quicker than a battery will.
My friend's Polaris has a 2-stroker with a battery and get this-----ELECTRIC START!!!!! And also a cheesy ass fully automatic tranny w/reverse. Oh, and it is supposed to be a sport quad!
i thought about hookin up 2 55w fog/driving lights for a car on my blaster, in place of the headlight so i dont rob too much power, but have more light. any one know if that would work? or if 2 for lights are brighter than my one stock headlight? i have a 2000.
The stock headlamp is only 35w I believe so one 50 watt light would be brighter, There is a couple ppl that only one light like that on here somewhere that I have seen, also remember that the stock stator output is only 55w
Actually I have posted many many times that wattage doesnt make much dfference in the effectiveness of a light. What really matters is the quality of the light, the reflector and the lense. I good light with a 35 watt bulb is going to put out more USEFULL light than a chinese piece of crap with a 100 watt bulb. The style of light is also important. a pencil beam will shine a narrow light a long ways, a driving light will not shine as far but will be a much broader light. a fog light is a very broad light but has very little distance. ideally you want a driving and a pencil, but there are many companies that make a light that does a bit of both. Hella, Cibie, Bosh, Procomp etc. A true fog light is about worthless as you will be outdriving it in second gear. Lights built for european rallying are usually pretty good. Although I do realize that for a lot of you, how cheap the light is and how cool it looks are oftern much more important than how good it works......
i found a DIY write up on "wally lights." grand total of $35 and some change. just put it on and they work great! better than stock. ill probly out drive the light in 5th gear pinned, but with the stock head light i was close to out running my light mid way thry 4th gear. in my opinion the new light set up looks better than the stock one too but i mounted them below the hood so they dont turn with the wheels.
my Blaster doesn't have a battery, but it does have a spot under the seat where a battery could fit with wires going to it and a holder. Just the engine alone isn't fully illuminating my lights, so I'm convinced mine needs a battery.
anyone know how to hook up a legit brake light?
one that brightens when you hit the break?
phragle, is there a special switch i could mount to my brake pedal that would do this?
i hate riding with people behind me at nite because they cant tell if im slowing down the light is always on.
one that brightens when you hit the break?
phragle, is there a special switch i could mount to my brake pedal that would do this?
i hate riding with people behind me at nite because they cant tell if im slowing down the light is always on.
Not sure what year it started, but my 2006 has a brake light on it OEM. There is a switch above the rear brake pedal, as well as on the front brake lever.
yp, a sping loaded switch and a different bulb/socket assembly. cycle salvage, 10 bucks and an hours work
Then it sounds like you need to bump down the wattage of your bulbs becuase your pulling more power than the stator can put out. Adding a battery would help, but depending on how much night riding you do and how much your lights are pulling you will pull the battery down and have the same effect as the it wont be able to put out enough power to charge the battery and light the lights, its also hard on a battery if you do discharge it that far and will shorten its life span.
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