Best spark plug and gap

I just figured id give the B8ES a shot

And that is not a green gasket squashing out, it has all new top end gaskets even for the reed spacers

And just a question, how would haveing a smaller plug gap make it easier to start?

Iwas worried that as that gasket looked to me you may have a problem.

Smaller the gap, weaker the spark.
 
I would open that gap up to the larger side. put it at .032 longer spark= better fire.

Exactly! The theory that a narrower plug gap=easier starting is only true if you've got a problem with the ignition system and the coil is not putting out a strong spark. A weak spark won't jump the OE spec gap. Set the plug to spec and it will work fine as long as the ignition system is in good condition. In fact, a healthy coil will fire across even a huge .050" gap no problem. (Don't set your plug this far out, but just FYI!)

That carburetor is a 28mm Keihin PWK. I ran the same one on my Blaster for awhile. The 28mm PWK's will slip right into a stock Blaster intake boot. That funky, cut-off yellow tube on the top of the carburetor needs to be capped off ASAP. This is part of your hard-starting problem; you've got an air leak downstream of the carburetor's venturi. The nipple on top of the carb with the hose attached to it was originally for use with oil injection.

The oil feed line would attach here and allow oil to drip into the incoming fuel/air stream going to the engine. Problem is, the PWK carb's were made for all kinds of applications and you don't need this fitting when running pre-mix in your Blaster. Plug the hose in question with an old nail and it'lll be problem solved! Straight from the factory, Keihin had a rubber plug installed over the nipple. Yours got lost or taken off somewhere in the past,so somebody just stuck a piece of hose on there, believing it is a breather or vent fitting. It needs to be plugged off for the engine to run correctly. Hope this helps! :D
 
Exactly! The theory that a narrower plug gap=easier starting is only true if you've got a problem with the ignition system and the coil is not putting out a strong spark. A weak spark won't jump the OE spec gap. Set the plug to spec and it will work fine as long as the ignition system is in good condition. In fact, a healthy coil will fire across even a huge .050" gap no problem. (Don't set your plug this far out, but just FYI!)

That carburetor is a 28mm Keihin PWK. I ran the same one on my Blaster for awhile. The 28mm PWK's will slip right into a stock Blaster intake boot. That funky, cut-off yellow tube on the top of the carburetor needs to be capped off ASAP. This is part of your hard-starting problem; you've got an air leak downstream of the carburetor's venturi. The nipple on top of the carb with the hose attached to it was originally for use with oil injection.

The oil feed line would attach here and allow oil to drip into the incoming fuel/air stream going to the engine. Problem is, the PWK carb's were made for all kinds of applications and you don't need this fitting when running pre-mix in your Blaster. Plug the hose in question with an old nail and it'lll be problem solved! Straight from the factory, Keihin had a rubber plug installed over the nipple. Yours got lost or taken off somewhere in the past,so somebody just stuck a piece of hose on there, believing it is a breather or vent fitting. It needs to be plugged off for the engine to run correctly. Hope this helps! :D

This nipple has already been plugged, the hose attached as some metal nail or something jammed into it. And ive been soo busy this weekend i was unable to rip into the blaster to find stuff out, so i wasnt able to check the reeds or the jets. I will get to checking them soon.