Best spark plug and gap

TMali

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Sep 15, 2011
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My blaster has a tough time starting cold, but starts easy warm. Im thinking it could be the spark plug and gap. Since a rebuild was done 10hours about and it has all new seals. Id like to give this a try.

What would you guys recomend for being the best spark plug on a stock ignition and what should i gap it too?

Thank you guys alot
-Tony
 
usually a b8es is your best bet on the blaster and most other 2 pokes and the gab should be about .025 for gas but they usually come pre gapped but I always check mine had a few bad eggs before
 
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Could the choke circuit have dirt in it.

A new plug and a healthy blue spark, and a clean choke circuit, it should start well!

I put a new plug in it when i rebuilt it.... I didnt check the gap tho. I bought the blaster with an aftermarket carb on it, that im unsure what it is but it is a keihin carb with a pull open/up choke.
 
Does the plug have a healthy blue spark.

Is the compression above 100.

Does the plug show signs of fuel wetness after a few kicks.????????

What was the reason for the rebuild.
 
Primer kit......You mean like a weed-eater has lol?

Well i guess they have them on it. But i was thinking the plunger style. I have this on my jet ski and ive had them on some of my older snowmobiles and it seems to work fine on them

Snowmobile plunger type fuel carburator primer kit with fuel line #pk2256 | eBay

Actually isnt the gap .032?I set mine at 32 anyways and i prefer NGK.

So you would go with the NGK b8es too, i just want to know the best gap for stock ignition... I dont have an owners manual nor could i find it online.

Does the plug have a healthy blue spark.

Is the compression above 100.

Does the plug show signs of fuel wetness after a few kicks.????????

What was the reason for the rebuild.

Last time i checked compression it was at 145-150ish.

Ive never check the plug after just a few kicks for wetness, cause you guys should know that its not just the easiest to just pull the plug.

The spark is there, i wouldnt know what you call healthy, i can double check to see how strong it is.

And the reason for the rebuild was that it still had the stock pistion in it (its and 01) the base gasket was leaking and when i went to put a new one it i found bad cracking of the pistion skirt. So i had it oversized one and went with weisco.
 
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Well i guess they have them on it. But i was thinking the plunger style. I have this on my jet ski and ive had them on some of my older snowmobiles and it seems to work fine on them

Snowmobile plunger type fuel carburator primer kit with fuel line #pk2256 | eBay



So you would go with the NGK b8es too, i just want to know the best gap for stock ignition... I dont have an owners manual nor could i find it online.



Last time i checked compression it was at 145-150ish.

Ive never check the plug after just a few kicks for wetness, cause you guys should know that its not just the easiest to just pull the plug.

The spark is there, i wouldnt know what you call healthy, i can double check to see how strong it is.

And the reason for the rebuild was that it still had the stock pistion in it (its and 01) the base gasket was leaking and when i went to put a new one it i found bad cracking of the pistion skirt. So i had it oversized one and went with weisco.

Ok, let me clear some of this up. A stock Blaster spark plug is indeed an NGK B8ES. You can run the "R" version (BR8ES) with no problems, but it is not needed. (The R is for Resistor. You don't need a resistor plug in a Blaster).

Here's the manual. See for yourself:

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/

That primer kit you're looking at works well for its intended use, but you don't want to use it on a Blaster. Why? Well, that primer squirts a LOT of fuel because most of the time it is designed to feed two or more carbs at the same time. Putting one on a Blaster will only flood the carburetor and engine, and you'll never get it started.

If your Blasty isn't starting properly and all the above has been checked (compression, presence of spark, etc), you've got another problem preventing easy starting. An aftermarket carburetor will NOT make the engine difficult to start. I run a giant 34mm Mikuni and I only need the "choke" when its 60 degrees or cooler outside. Most of the time it starts in one kick with no "choke" whatsoever.

SO, first thing to check are your reeds. Even a slight chip or crack will make starting difficult.

Reeds OK? Check your carb jetting. Let's see a pic of that carb. Most Keihins like between a 42 and a 45 pilot jet on an otherwise stock engine. If the pilot is way too big or too small, good luck getting it going when cold.
 
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I checked the spark plug for gap and color

This is what i got

IMAG0254.jpg


The gap was at about .027ish

And this was the spark it was putting out



Sorry for shakey camera, its hard to hold and kick over.

It looks decently strong to me??


But anyways i went out in bought a NGK B8ES and set gap to .027 again

I had a NGK BR8ES in it before

I havent had a chance to try it out before i went to work.
 
Ok, let me clear some of this up. A stock Blaster spark plug is indeed an NGK B8ES. You can run the "R" version (BR8ES) with no problems, but it is not needed. (The R is for Resistor. You don't need a resistor plug in a Blaster).

Here's the manual. See for yourself:

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/

That primer kit you're looking at works well for its intended use, but you don't want to use it on a Blaster. Why? Well, that primer squirts a LOT of fuel because most of the time it is designed to feed two or more carbs at the same time. Putting one on a Blaster will only flood the carburetor and engine, and you'll never get it started.

If your Blasty isn't starting properly and all the above has been checked (compression, presence of spark, etc), you've got another problem preventing easy starting. An aftermarket carburetor will NOT make the engine difficult to start. I run a giant 34mm Mikuni and I only need the "choke" when its 60 degrees or cooler outside. Most of the time it starts in one kick with no "choke" whatsoever.

SO, first thing to check are your reeds. Even a slight chip or crack will make starting difficult.

Reeds OK? Check your carb jetting. Let's see a pic of that carb. Most Keihins like between a 42 and a 45 pilot jet on an otherwise stock engine. If the pilot is way too big or too small, good luck getting it going when cold.

Ok, i havent checked the reeds since the rebuild but then they were looking fine with no chips. Ill rip stuff off this weekend and check them again.

This is the carb that on it, i dont know what size it is, i didnt want to take it off yet to measure what size it is. And when i google the number on it nothing pops up.

IMAG0256.jpg


IMAG0259.jpg


I havent had it apart either to check the jets, soo that is unknown. I can also check that this weekend.

I rechecked the compression too and i was at 145psi

My blaster is stock besides the Carb, weisco piston, vitos high comp head gasket and FMF pipe and core 2 silencer. And i have some used carbon fiber reeds i got cheap that ive been debating weather to put on or not, because i dont know if there too worn or not??
 
BR8ES should not impede it starting.

Do I see a green paper gasket squashing out under the reed spacer, if it were me I would be doing a leak down test to see if that area is not sucking air.
 
well, that looks to be a smaller pwk, possibly a 28 ???
i see it fits into the stock airbox boot,
what worries me is the fuel inlet and ilde screw are on the opposite side ????
and what the hell is that "blocked off" inlet on the intake side/top, with the short yellow hose on it ????

compression good, spark...very good
check for air leaks and what size pilot is in it

i have also seen the plug gap set to as low as .018, supposedly makes starting easier ???
 
dail-a-jet needs to be in the back ?????
that could possibly be a vacuum port for a fuel pump (sled carb????)
 
BR8ES should not impede it starting.

Do I see a green paper gasket squashing out under the reed spacer, if it were me I would be doing a leak down test to see if that area is not sucking air.

I just figured id give the B8ES a shot

And that is not a green gasket squashing out, it has all new top end gaskets even for the reed spacers

well, that looks to be a smaller pwk, possibly a 28 ???
i see it fits into the stock airbox boot,
what worries me is the fuel inlet and ilde screw are on the opposite side ????
and what the hell is that "blocked off" inlet on the intake side/top, with the short yellow hose on it ????

compression good, spark...very good
check for air leaks and what size pilot is in it

i have also seen the plug gap set to as low as .018, supposedly makes starting easier ???

I really have no idea what kind it is, but it has been kindof working. Right under the numbers 29SBOUCED in the rectangle there used to be a sticker that said "For motorcycle racing only" It does fit into the stock inlet boot. And for the short hose at the end of the carb closest the reeds its just a short section that is blocked off, this is spot i was thinking about putting on primer kit.

And just a question, how would haveing a smaller plug gap make it easier to start?