when splitting the cases my last thought is on how much faster i can do it...... i recommend the impact driver......
spark knocking??
- Thread starter dakine97
- Start date
when splitting the cases my last thought is on how much faster i can do it...... i recommend the impact driver......
What is the current advance setting?
As TC says, advancing it any more will make matters worse.
Sounds like you need to go back to basics, do a little research, because I feel that both you and Dad are out of your depth.
Slip on a stock head, take the advance off, leak test and re-jet to 93 octane.,
Plug chop with a b8es plug.
Well I think best,triplecrown,and blaster summed it up pretty good.But one question.How did you notice the tear on the gasket?I thought it was all together and leak tested fine.If so you wouldnt see a tear. Has dad been talking to the parts guy also??
Buddy, this is a bit of a brutal club. We don't mean to sound unfriendly but we've learned to be brutally honest with our symptoms and tests if we want to get honest results. We have to be because this crowd has got a pretty good nose for bovine scatology. One little whiff and you'll lose all credibility.
The way to test for leaks is to use a leak tester. You plug the carb and exhaust and put no more than 7psi on the crankcase. You can make your own tester out of a plumbing fitting in the carb hose and steel plate across or expanding plug in the exhaust port. Where you put the fill nipple (originally I used a tire valve stem in the exhaust plate) and the low pressure gauge is up to you. Use a bicycle pump to get your 7psi and wait. Soap and water will bubble at the leaks. This is a leak tester.
Taking the cylinder off does not find leaks, it makes them. Also leaks occur at the reed box flange and the case halves and the crank seals. Worst is into the gearbox, you don't see them but air will bubble out of the vent hose. A leak test takes about 20 minutes max and BANG! You know either you are safe or you have work to do.
Listen, I could tell you that you need to put as much back to stock as possible and then get it running with proper jets and a plug chop before you try modifying one thing at a time, but hey, you didn't listen to all those very smart guys up there^^^, so why would you listen to me? If you have your own way of doing it, just go ahead and do it. Keep us informed how it works out. Most don't, they just disappear...
Now, if you want to get valuable free advice from very experienced people, don't waste their time by dancing them around.
Report symptoms, Listen to tests, Do tests, Report results...
Be real, be honest, you will get fixed and stay running. No blown engine.
The way to test for leaks is to use a leak tester. You plug the carb and exhaust and put no more than 7psi on the crankcase. You can make your own tester out of a plumbing fitting in the carb hose and steel plate across or expanding plug in the exhaust port. Where you put the fill nipple (originally I used a tire valve stem in the exhaust plate) and the low pressure gauge is up to you. Use a bicycle pump to get your 7psi and wait. Soap and water will bubble at the leaks. This is a leak tester.
Taking the cylinder off does not find leaks, it makes them. Also leaks occur at the reed box flange and the case halves and the crank seals. Worst is into the gearbox, you don't see them but air will bubble out of the vent hose. A leak test takes about 20 minutes max and BANG! You know either you are safe or you have work to do.
Listen, I could tell you that you need to put as much back to stock as possible and then get it running with proper jets and a plug chop before you try modifying one thing at a time, but hey, you didn't listen to all those very smart guys up there^^^, so why would you listen to me? If you have your own way of doing it, just go ahead and do it. Keep us informed how it works out. Most don't, they just disappear...
Now, if you want to get valuable free advice from very experienced people, don't waste their time by dancing them around.
Report symptoms, Listen to tests, Do tests, Report results...
Be real, be honest, you will get fixed and stay running. No blown engine.
/\ /\ /\ /\ /\ Advice as sweet as cane sugar Best, you surely have a way with words, I tend to be blunt.
Dakine97, Is this a true representation of your mods or is there something else you are not telling us.
89 blasty
bored .20 over
shaved head
port and polish by '00-wo-ya
2.5 in extention
18 in rzrs
shee works rezzis
warrior oil shock
warrior goldies
maier race cut plastics front and rear
There is no mention of an aftermarket pipe or timing advance.
And who is this joker ('00-wo-ya) and what style of porting.
What fuel/oil ratio are you using.
Give us your full mods and something to work with and for a leak free motor we may be able to come up with something to help fix the spark knock.
Eagerly awaiting your sincere reply. Please give us something to get our teeth into other than random information.
Dakine97, Is this a true representation of your mods or is there something else you are not telling us.
89 blasty
bored .20 over
shaved head
port and polish by '00-wo-ya
2.5 in extention
18 in rzrs
shee works rezzis
warrior oil shock
warrior goldies
maier race cut plastics front and rear
There is no mention of an aftermarket pipe or timing advance.
And who is this joker ('00-wo-ya) and what style of porting.
What fuel/oil ratio are you using.
Give us your full mods and something to work with and for a leak free motor we may be able to come up with something to help fix the spark knock.
Eagerly awaiting your sincere reply. Please give us something to get our teeth into other than random information.
That "Joker" would be me and just to correct this and attempt to clean up my name a bit, I DID NOT PORT THIS JUG. The jug as far as I'm aware from reliable sources was a used jug that someone cleaned up the casting in at some point. It was sold as a usable cylinder that needed a bore to this young man. It did not belong to me nor did I ever touch it.
I think its obvious here that the problems are deeper than a mere cleanup of port casting. The jugs that I have worked on are for play riding by they typically run very well when I'm through, however, I make no claims whatsoever to being a pro porter, I'm just someone with a bit of no how and and ability.
So far we have a motor with the following mods:
FMF Fatty.
+3 timing advance.
Unknown porting.
93 octane with octane booster.
32:1 premix.
A leak free motor at sea level will call for a #270-#280 main jet.
Now for the unknown:
What type of air filter, and where?
Airbox lid, on or off?
Heat range of spark plug?
Elevation and temperature?
Leak down test results.
Cylinder compression?
Float level?
All of the above are useful in diagnosing your problem.
FMF Fatty.
+3 timing advance.
Unknown porting.
93 octane with octane booster.
32:1 premix.
A leak free motor at sea level will call for a #270-#280 main jet.
Now for the unknown:
What type of air filter, and where?
Airbox lid, on or off?
Heat range of spark plug?
Elevation and temperature?
Leak down test results.
Cylinder compression?
Float level?
All of the above are useful in diagnosing your problem.
air box lid is off stock filter what do you mean by the rest? also my cylinder compression is good
Heat range of spark plug? Should be a b8es
Elevation and temperature? Sea level or above, and outside air temp.,
Leak down test results. Did it hold 7psi for at least 10 mins. if not rate of leakage.
Float level? Is it between 20 and 21.5mm?
If your compression is under 160psi.
Plug chop a #300 main, with the needle on the middle clip and post pics of the chopped plug.
Plug chop a #300 main, with the needle on the middle clip and post pics of the chopped plug.
