Rear axle need help please

My plan of attack when all else fails, is to put a small cutting disk into the dremel and remove a slice of the outer bearing, if you do cut a little into the carrier, as long as it does not go through to the outside it will be fine.

Try not to damage where the oil seal will sit, and all will be fine.

This is a scenario where backyard science may have to rear it's ugly head!
 
Its our society these days people are lazy and just wanna have fun. Hell when I got mine one of the back rims had the holes worn out to about an inch wide, chain was missing master link clip, oil injection nipple was open, and on and on. Yeah I would say you could take a dremel and notch it and pop it out just be careful

That, and unless it has a grease zerk, R&R is the only maintenance really.

I would just take the carrier off the arm to make it easier to work on. I've had to grind/cut races into two pieces to get them out. And as mentioned, that needs to be CLEAN before you put it back together!!
 
Its our society these days people are lazy and just wanna have fun. Hell when I got mine one of the back rims had the holes worn out to about an inch wide, chain was missing master link clip, oil injection nipple was open, and on and on. Yeah I would say you could take a dremel and notch it and pop it out just be careful

That, and unless it has a grease zerk, R&R is the only maintenance really.

I would just take the carrier off the arm to make it easier to work on. I've had to grind/cut races into two pieces to get them out. And as mentioned, that needs to be CLEAN before you put it back together!!
 
Just hammered them out with a big bar a nd a pry bar. New ones went in nice. Dying though I have the to wait until Monday for the correct right side seal so I can put it all back together.

That, and unless it has a grease zerk, R&R is the only maintenance really.

I would just take the carrier off the arm to make it easier to work on. I've had to grind/cut races into two pieces to get them out. And as mentioned, that needs to be CLEAN before you put it back together!!
 
Just hammered them out with a big bar a nd a pry bar. New ones went in nice. Dying though I have the to wait until Monday for the correct right side seal so I can put it all back together.

21n3zio.jpg

1e0392.jpg
 
Buying a.crows foot open end 50 .mm for the axle nuts instead of ordering there tool will post pictures when done. I have to rethread the hub threads on the axle due to mushrooming. Update: The re thread went easy as can be.
 
Last edited:
I made my own wrenches. Had two broken 3/8-1/2 adapters. Only wish I made them little longer cause still couldn't get enough torque value, just used SWAG method.
Clean that grease off threads, I do believe they call for red loctie on the nuts.
 
Clymers Repair Manual page 300
paragraph 13
b. "apply loctite 271 (RED) to axle threads."

If you go to the Loctite site you will find that type is determined by thread size primarily.
Unless you bend an axle, if you installed corectly and added a grease zerk you won't be taking it apart for many years.
Because I went from memory, it's actually, 1.40 ft/lbs 2. 140 ft/lbs 3.inner nut against outer 170 ft/lbs
 
Clymers Repair Manual page 300
paragraph 13
b. "apply loctite 271 (RED) to axle threads."

If you go to the Loctite site you will find that type is determined by thread size primarily.
Unless you bend an axle, if you installed corectly and added a grease zerk you won't be taking it apart for many years.
Because I went from memory, it's actually, 1.40 ft/lbs 2. 140 ft/lbs 3.inner nut against outer 170 ft/lbs
MMy brother has a torque wrench and HF has some cheap open end adapters. Going to try that way. Getting 2 new castle nuts and we have to rethread the end of axle.. so close to snapping it back together. Hopefully tonight . Gotta do them Damn threads or cant get wheel on I have blue loctite I don't think I should matter.
 
I tend to disagree with the Clymers manual.

Although the Red Loctite has a shear strength of more than 10 times that of Blue, any fastening in the lock nut mode, is very stable.

I have never used Red Loctite on any axle, I do not relish using 500 deg to break and clean up the threads the next time I check the carrier bearings.
 
Damn. I couldn't find a open end that would fit that big one at alll the local stores even HF , Sears all of them.. Don't wanna buy it from Yamaha for one use. See they are 40.00 any know any local stores? What I ment in earlier post was they had nothing bigger then a 30mm local.
Guess I'm stuck till I figure this out. Had to re thread the axle bolt for the hub today just need this wrench to finish the job. 2 days of rain ahead so ground should be ready for me when I get this done. Boy them thread specs someone posted came in handy today.
Anyone wanna lend me there wrench for a day ? I have a torque wrench I just need the axle nut wrench.

Might be better with this then blowing money on 1 use wrenches
http://m.ebay.com/itm/310926464650?


Wont be right if you only use your hand.

best to get a torque
 
Last edited by a moderator: