i blocked off the oil. i live in florida so there isnt really any elevation. what should size jets should i use first?
oil block off jetting question
- Thread starter nbritt851
- Start date
There shouldn't be any need to re-jet after blocking off the oil injection, but I'd check your spark plug just to be safe. Since you are so close to sea level, I'd run a 240 main jet and the stock 32.5 pilot. (This is assuming you are running your Blaster with the airbox lid on and the stock exhaust). If the airbox lid is OFF, switch to a 250 and tune from there.
when you do the oil block off the gas is a little thicker so it doesn't go through the jets as well
If you are going from the 24:1 (or whatever the oil injection mixes at) to like 40:1 or 50:1 you more than likely WILL need to rejet.... heres why.
The more oil you run the less gas there will be therefor the more oil you run in your premix the leaner your bike is running. So if you go from a 24:1 oil injection (leaner condition) to a 40:1 (Richer condition) then you will need to go down in jet size to make it more lean again... This depends on how picky you are with your jetting....
Best bet is to switch it over and do some plug chops....
The more oil you run the less gas there will be therefor the more oil you run in your premix the leaner your bike is running. So if you go from a 24:1 oil injection (leaner condition) to a 40:1 (Richer condition) then you will need to go down in jet size to make it more lean again... This depends on how picky you are with your jetting....
Best bet is to switch it over and do some plug chops....
If you mix at 32:1, the stock #230 jet will be ok.
By using 32:1 pre mix you will only richen up the fuel a little from stock, this errs on the safe side.
It is always good to do a plug chop if you mess with fuel ratios or jetting.
By using 32:1 pre mix you will only richen up the fuel a little from stock, this errs on the safe side.
It is always good to do a plug chop if you mess with fuel ratios or jetting.
before i did the oil block off it would start first kick w/o choke. i did the oil block off mixed the gas 32:1 and now it will only start with the choke on and after 6 kicks or so, and when it warms up it will just start reving higher and higher
did you plug the nipple on the carb where the oil line was attached?? Sounds like you may not have.
If the revs keep getting higher, you have an air leak and are running too lean!! You need to get this fixed ASAP!!
Even without the problem that you're having I would have suggested going up a size on the main jet after doing the block off.
If the revs keep getting higher, you have an air leak and are running too lean!! You need to get this fixed ASAP!!
Even without the problem that you're having I would have suggested going up a size on the main jet after doing the block off.
i put the little nipple cap on the carb, but you thing it is an air leak? where would it be i did put vforce 3 reeds on also and removed the tors could any of that be causing the problem
did you put the little zip tie around the nipple?? I put a little rtv or something in there when I did mine just to be extra sure, but the zip tie should keep it air tight.
If you just put VF3 reeds in then around the reed cage could be leaking. How was your old gasket? Did you use a new gasket? ARe the bolts snug? You can use a tiny bead of RTV on either side of the reed cage to make sure this area is all secured, however, the downside is that you have to clean that stuff off when you remove them next time....so if you go this route, use just a tiny bead, like 1/16" or so.
Also check the boot to the carb, is that connection tight?
Did you just unplug the TORS or did you remove the carb cap and put a new one on?? If you put a new carb cap on, that could be your problem as you won't have an idle adjust screw and need to put one in!! If you have the stupid tors thing up on top of the carb it holds the idle adjust screw. Also, there is a gasket on the top of the carb that should seat properly.
Sounds like a leak down test is needed, if anything is done concerning the inlet there is a problem that leaks will occur.
Don't bump the main jet up, that will make it too rich, you have already richened it by switching to 32:1.
Do a leak down test to diagnose the problem before you mess with anything.
Don't bump the main jet up, that will make it too rich, you have already richened it by switching to 32:1.
Do a leak down test to diagnose the problem before you mess with anything.
i didn't put a ziptie on the nipple ill go do that but i did put all new gaskets on and used gasket maker to seal it off, and for the tors i removed it and put the top cap on, and drilled and tapped the idle screw.
What one has to do is to block off the exhaust and then with a leak down tester, pressurize the carby inlet to see if there are any air leaks in either seals or gaskets.
There is a post here on the forum on how to make one or you can get one from "slickerthanyou"
Here it is http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
There is a post here on the forum on how to make one or you can get one from "slickerthanyou"
Here it is http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
See if some RTV/silicone and a zip tie on that nipple (a tiny zip tie...or even some wire twisted tight to hold it in place will do) makes any difference.
TApping a new idle hole in the carb can be tricky - that could also be the source of your irradic idle, however, you want to make sure you don't have a lean condition first - the lean condition could ruin your motor. If you exhaust the search for a lean condition and then find out it was the idle screw, your motor won't be any worse for the wear.
While I agree that a leakdown test is a good idea, I still would suggest bumping the main up. If you richen it too much, oh well, you don't hurt anything...you'll then know that you have to go leaner. Switching from the injection to pre-mix leans the mixture out as with the injection, the main jet is metering 100% fuel - the oil comes in a separate hole. With the pre-mix your main is metering an oil/fuel mixture - so with that same main you're getting less fuel for the same amount of air which by definition would be leaning it out!!!
No harm in running it too rich....you'll have a better understanding of where you're jetting needs to be!
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