jetting problems after spending $2000 on mods

Damn, forgot to mention (as if I didn't write enough!), timing advance favours low speed torque on most 2 strokes, and cuts down top end and over-rev. It has to do with exhaust heat and pipe timing. The hotter the exhaust is, the higher an RPM the pipe is tuned for, so if you can heat up the pipe as your RPM increases your pipe tuning will increase in step with it, creating a long broad strong powerband into the upper RPM. When the timing is advanced slightly beyond ideal, it pushes the heat into the cylinder (and piston, boom!). When the timing is retarded slightly beyond ideal, it pushes the heat into the pipe, which is where we want it at this point.

Short answer, maybe timing advance is not what you need at this point?
 
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Damn, forgot to mention (as if I didn't write enough!), timing advance favours low speed torque on most 2 strokes, and cuts down top end and over-rev. It has to do with exhaust heat and pipe timing. The hotter the exhaust is, the higher an RPM the pipe is tuned for, so if you can heat up the pipe as your RPM increases you pipe tuning will increase in step with it, creating a long broad strong powerband into the upper RPM. When the timing is advanced slightly beyond ideal, it pushes the heat into the cylinder (and piston, boom!). When the timing is retarded slightly beyond ideal, it pushes the heat into the pipe, which is where we want it at this point.

Short answer, maybe timing advance is not what you need at this point?

Great response best!
Those plugs look better from the top and I do believe I see a nice light brown ring on that first one near the bottom. Cut the threads off and lets have a look!

If those are with a 160 main, try a 165 and see what that gives ya. I don't think you will need anything bigger than 165 with a stock jug. I don't remember if you have a big block or stock?
 
I actually retarded it 3 degrees just to be safe. I didn't want to put that in my post and get yelled at for making more then one change at a time. But whatever. I can take it.
 
Short answer, maybe timing advance is not what you need at this point?

I actually retarded it 3 degrees just to be safe. I didn't want to put that in my post and get yelled at for making more then one change at a time. But whatever. I can take it.
 
by Michael Shiffer


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At higher engine speeds, larger throttle openings and greater loads than idle, you need ignition advance. There are two reasons for this. First, you are burning more fuel so complete combustion takes longer. Second, the combustion time, as a percentage of the time the piston is at or near top dead center is much longer because of the piston speed. What this means is that you have to ignite the charge earlier, while the piston is still coming up, in order to get the full benefit of the pressure against the piston at the right time. Too early or too late timing will have a similar effect at speed as at idle, but greatly magnified and with far more destructive potential. Too retarded timing will give low power, lousy emissions and excessive bore wear. Timing too advanced will cause pinging (a rattling noise usually heard on acceleration), overheating cylinder heads and other problems too scary to contemplate.
 
by Michael Shiffer


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At higher engine speeds, larger throttle openings and greater loads than idle, you need ignition advance. There are two reasons for this. First, you are burning more fuel so complete combustion takes longer. Second, the combustion time, as a percentage of the time the piston is at or near top dead center is much longer because of the piston speed. What this means is that you have to ignite the charge earlier, while the piston is still coming up, in order to get the full benefit of the pressure against the piston at the right time. Too early or too late timing will have a similar effect at speed as at idle, but greatly magnified and with far more destructive potential. Too retarded timing will give low power, lousy emissions and excessive bore wear. Timing too advanced will cause pinging (a rattling noise usually heard on acceleration), overheating cylinder heads and other problems too scary to contemplate.

Excellent article but it is all about VW vans.
I had a VW back in 1976 and put a VW van engine with a big bore kit into it.
I would have loved to have had that resource, but it has very little to do with our 2 strokes.

Back before East German Ernst Degner snuck Walter Kaaden's secret of the tuned pipe over to the west, 2 strokes did need more advance, just like 4 strokes. You can still see this in older 4 stroke outboard motors that have a long spark advance mechanism built into the throttle because they do not have tuned exhausts.

The tuned pipe changed everything, 125 engines went from making about 6 hp to today's 40+ hp. How they did this is by improving cylinder filling at higher speeds. This increased the rpm the engines could run and vastly increased the cylinder pressures they run at. Typically most 4 strokes have a decreasing "volumetric efficiency" (cylinder filling) as rpm goes up, with maybe a slight advantage at their torque peak, due to cam timing, intake and header tuning. Still, unless they have a supercharger or turbocharger, they always have less than full displacement in their cylinders, and less and less as rpm goes up. "Thin air burns slower" is a fact known to anyone in the mountains, and is true in the cylinder as well. The less air available, the less complete cylinder filling and the less time available (due to increased rpm) mean that a lot more timing advance is needed as a 4 stroke revs up.

Our tuned pipe 2 strokes break all the rules, thank you Walter Kaaden. The tuned pipe draws air and fuel mixture up into the headpipe and just before the piston closes off the exhaust port, jams it back into the cylinder. This increases the volumetric efficiency (cylinder filling) hugely, often more than their static displacement, and 2-3 times more than a comparable 4 stroke. This increases cylinder pressures. Fuel and air under pressure burn faster. More pressure, faster burn. Faster burn, less timing advance needed.

Back in 1976, besides working on VWs, I also had a 1974 CR250 and bought Gordon Jenning's wonderful book: Two-Stroke TUNER'S HANDBOOK which is still very valid 40 years after it was written. Unfortunately it doesn't have much information on timing advance, but I did find this interesting gem:

"While most tuners would agree that much depends on the basic tuners' arts, they
are nonetheless inclined to seek magical solutions to any problems not instantly resolved
by changing a main jet or replacing a set of points. Sadly, seldom do mechanical exotica,
magic-box ignitions and the like, truly solve a problem. More often they merely replace
the existing difficulty with another - or multiple, even more mysterious problems. For
instance, most engines have ignition systems entirely capable of producing sparks at a
rate adequate for the speed range anticipated by the engines' makers, but may collapse
into a fit of misfiring at higher revs. Most tuners will assume that the root cause of this
distress is that they have built themselves such an incredibly vigorous engine that nothing
weaker than God's-Own-Lightning is enough to make it run properly, which sends them
scurrying away in search of some transistorized, magnetically-triggered system with
enough sheer zap to fracture atoms."

Which is entirely pertinent to this thread!

Back to timing advance on 2 stroke engines. A bit more up to date is AG Bell's 2 Stroke Performance Tuning book, which starts to get into the subject on page 129, but has this quote from page 130:

"With four-stroke engines it is usual for the modified engine to require considerably
more advance than standard. However, from the foregoing you can see that this does
not apply in the case of two-strokes. In fact, it is quite unusual for a two-stroke engine
to need more advance than that specified by the manufacturer. It is difficult to say just
how much advance a modified engine will require, but as they can be easily damaged
because of too much ignition advance, I would suggest that you reduce the
recommended timing by 20% to begin with. "

The timing curve on most performance 2 trokes is a slight advance in the mid-range and then retard in the power band. I haven't put a timing light on a Blaster, but does this agree with what you saw Turbowrenchhead?
 
I actually retarded it 3 degrees just to be safe. I didn't want to put that in my post and get yelled at for making more then one change at a time. But whatever. I can take it.



This bike/engine has nothing different than thousands of others on here, and none of them needed retarded timing to tune/run correctly, if this one does, it's nothing but a bandaid for some other problem that's eluding us. Period
 
To Best: lol about Jennings and God's own lightning. Young guys have to realize that back then we had points and condensers, static timing and "black boxes" (cdi) were in early development. My 73 Elsinore actually used Xthou before TDC to time it :eek:. I wish there was more info such as Jennings and Bell redily available.

Back to problem at hand. Turbo, did you ever check the squish on it? If so what was it?
 
I was out there today and spending some time with a timing light. Timing acts just like the graph out of the manual. At idle there is slightly less timing. Maybe 2 degrees if that. I put my stator back to its original position because I'm confident that I am getting close to getting it jetted right. I ordered a richer needle and a 162 and 168 main jet for it today. I'm waiting for my cfm air box before I do another plug chop.
How does one do a squish test? Ken Oconnor set up the engine for 160psi and running a stock head gasket. Piston clearance is at .004" and there is a fresh set of rings in it.
 
Sounds good Turbo

I didn't know there was a timing curve in the manual, so i went looking for it and found it.
I'll post it and a DT125 curve from another manual at the bottom of the page.
Both of them have a low rpm retard to prevent kick back at start (Larry, remember how that Elsinore could kick!) and have rpm retard as I expected. Thanks Turbo.

Quench check is done with a strip of lead solder slightly larger than you expect the quench to be.
You bend it in a "W" shape and lay it across the head pinwise, then cycle the piston over Top Dead Center.
Measure the flattened solder.

Some warnings, don't let the piston go down to the ports or you will cut off a bit of solder that you will never retrieve from your bottom end. Have the solder go right to the edge of the cylinder and measure there. The edge is the tightest spot. Don't use too big a solder or you may do damage. About 1mm (0.040") solder is fine.

Blaster
428050_10150719100665803_549110802_11714423_1353060032_n.jpg


DT125 1988

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You can see how the higher performance DT125 2 stroke needs less timing at higher rpm.
 
Got a good deal on a used fmf fatty with no dents shipped for $105. Last item on the list is a fmf q series silencer. Then its plug chopping time and getting it ready for this summer trail riding.
 
Still waiting on the muf and air box. Suppose to show up today. I got my buddy a good deal on a $2000 modded blaster for $1100 wednesday so we took them out to my secret wot drags in the city. His ran neck and neck with mine in 6th. Still only getting 55 mph in 6th. Only could have it in 6th for just a couple of seconds but it feels like its topping out. I put a 168 main in it and it still ran strong. Popped a new plug in it and made a few runs with it. There was hardly any color on the plug though.
 
Still waiting on the muf and air box. Suppose to show up today. I got my buddy a good deal on a $2000 modded blaster for $1100 wednesday so we took them out to my secret wot drags in the city. His ran neck and neck with mine in 6th. Still only getting 55 mph in 6th. Only could have it in 6th for just a couple of seconds but it feels like its topping out. I put a 168 main in it and it still ran strong. Popped a new plug in it and made a few runs with it. There was hardly any color on the plug though.

is his new blaster ported with everything? if not you should be smoking him by miles with all the mods in your sig? also you always do a squish test before running a new machined head always
 
It liked the 162 main the best. I would get a little bog with the 165. It was 75 degrees here today and its still technically winter. But this weather is great for tuning for the summer rides. I forgot my six mm socket so I couldn't change my needle. I did a mid throttle run and there was a little gray on the plug, still a bit to lean. I have my cel needle on the lowest clip so I need to get the other needle in and I think it will be ready to hit the trails.
I found my friend a 01 blaster that has 1k of mods on it and is really quick for $1100. I could not gain on him on the short straight stretch we had. There is a 34mm keihin carb on his with a D slide. I tuned the carb for him. Now I know what I'm doing its fairly easy. It liked a 48 pilot, 180 main and has a i think a cgk needle that i moved one clip to the second from the top. Its dialed in now. He's very happy for what he spent and what he got.
 
It liked a 48 pilot, 180 main and has a i think a cgk needle that i moved one clip to the second from the top. Its dialed in now. He's very happy for what he spent and what he got.


i'm not seeing how a 34mm carb likes a 180 main, unless it's a very heavily ported 240 bbk
 
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