Having some Bog down issues. NEED HELP!!!!!

Seth Riggins

New Member
Jun 29, 2014
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I have a 2001 Blaster, Has FMF fatty and powercore II exhaust. Wiseco piston. Boyesen reeds. My needle is at 4th from the bottom and my main jet is at 260. I'm in texas where its very hot and dry, Elevation around 1000. Need some help adjusting. How much does the Air/Fuel screw need to be out. It Runs and idles fine but when you slowly get enough RPMs it just kinda bogs out. Also it will sometimes run flawless when the fuel is turned off. Need some help. Pls and thankyou.
 
You will possibly be having flooding issues caused by a dirty needle and seat, allowing too much fuel to flow.

The needle may work better in the middle slot!

Air screw should be 1 1/2 turns out, but you may need to adjust the idle.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
i noticed your other post here is your answer :)


needle position 1.jpg
 
I have a 2001 Blaster, Has FMF fatty and powercore II exhaust. Wiseco piston. Boyesen reeds. My needle is at 4th from the bottom and my main jet is at 260. I'm in texas where its very hot and dry, Elevation around 1000. Need some help adjusting. How much does the Air/Fuel screw need to be out. It Runs and idles fine but when you slowly get enough RPMs it just kinda bogs out. Also it will sometimes run flawless when the fuel is turned off. Need some help. Pls and thankyou.


It could be the throttle override system (tors) kicking in that's making your blaster bog down cause mine did the same thing so I bought a twist throttle and my blasters ran fine ever since.
 
not good...it takes the b8es or br8es...the bpr7es the 7 meaning it is a hotter plug,.It is going to fry your motor,if it already has not caused damage.
What is your compression?
check it :)
Everyone seems to have a different answer on the p part of it say projected ect.
bottom line dont run that plug :)

B Thread diameter = 14 mm
P Construction = Projected Insulator Type
R Construction = Resistor Type
8 Heat Rating Number = Hot -> Cold
E Thread Reach = 12.7 mm
S Firing End Construction = Standard 2.6 mm diameter center electrode
 
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Read again, the B8es is the recommended plug for a stock setup.

Running a hotter range plug can cause pre ignition owing to the electrode glowing red or white hot , couple that with a AFR on the lean side and piston damage may occur.
 
another member on here ran that bpr8es plug and when he brought it to the shop they said two things were wrong his ignition coil and that plug..:)