Starting issues

[Eric40]

Okay, I'm having a really irritating problem I could use some good help, not the same remarks of leak down test compression test etc I've done all that.

I bought a 2001 Blaster. I have replaced everything with OEM parts that I could and when I say everything I mean everything. Everything I have put on I did to spec per service manual specs, ohm checked with the ohms meter just to be sure, I have new wiring also. Excellent spark, leak down test is as zero as you can get, because I have struggled so much with this thing I've made sure that everything is perfect. I have the torres unit still attached, I do not want to get rid of it regardless of what your opinions are, sorry. I am struggling to get it started, it starts sometimes but not all the time, I think I just get lucky. The first few times I was able to get it started it ran like crap, when it's stalled out or stopped running it would not start again ( until I got lucky again) like days later like it needed to dry out but at the same time days later doesn't necessarily make a difference because it might not start again anyway hence the if I'm lucky. I have had the parking break switch connected and not connected same results, Torres unit is connected for idol only so wiring isn't connected. I was able to get it running again the other day sounded great, the idol started to sputter out I attempted to adjust it at the Torres unit, I went the wrong way and it died. I have not been able to get it started again. I did a lower end and top end rebuild,. everything fit together great like it should. compression is 128, leak test is zero like I said, new reeds are tight to cage, no warp . I have a 280 jet in and it started and ran the best so far, which I'll post a video of. (Video is 15 seconds long and it won't let me upload say's it's too big , so I guess I can't show you the video) I have FMF expansion chamber and a DG exhaust, air box lid on. So far the times that I have been able to get it started was with a 270 jet 260 jet, it ran like crap. it ran good for a minute with the 280 jet. Hopefully this is enough info but probably not, Any ideas?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Can’t say you didn’t include enough information
Have you tried the old CDI box?
1.What about cleaning the carb?
2.Did you remove the pilot jet?
3.What about the emulsion tube?
4. Are the small holes on the side open?
5.Did you make sure you can blow air through ALL passages?
6.What about tube that is in float bowl?
7.What did you set the float level at ?
8.Is the spark Fat Blue or Lazy Yellow ?
9.What plug are you using?
10.Is it wet after trying to start it?
11. Are you using the choke to start it?
12.What’s the temperature where you are? Elevation?
13.Have you checked exhaust for a mouse house?
14.Have you tried bypassing BOTH switches for test purposes?

And now comes the hardest part
Because I don’t know how sensitive the TORS and parking brake sensors are, you WILL have to bypass the TORS for testing purposes, temporarily.You might find out why everyone deletes it. When your idle mechanism pukes out, that’s the only logical way to fix it. The tors brick is stupid expensive.

I expect ALL questions to be answered.

I’ll keep this in mind, maybe I’ll think of something else too.
Good luck

 

[Eric40]

Can’t say you didn’t include enough information
Have you tried the old CDI box?
1.What about cleaning the carb?
2.Did you remove the pilot jet?
3.What about the emulsion tube?
4. Are the small holes on the side open?
5.Did you make sure you can blow air through ALL passages?
6.What about tube that is in float bowl?
7.What did you set the float level at ?
8.Is the spark Fat Blue or Lazy Yellow ?
9.What plug are you using?
10.Is it wet after trying to start it?
11. Are you using the choke to start it?
12.What’s the temperature where you are? Elevation?
13.Have you checked exhaust for a mouse house?
14.Have you tried bypassing BOTH switches for test purposes?

And now comes the hardest part
Because I don’t know how sensitive the TORS and parking brake sensors are, you WILL have to bypass the TORS for testing purposes, temporarily.You might find out why everyone deletes it. When your idle mechanism pukes out, that’s the only logical way to fix it. The tors brick is stupid expensive.

I expect ALL questions to be answered.

I’ll keep this in mind, maybe I’ll think of something else too.
Good luck

 

[Eric40]

I tried the old CDI box, I tried the CDI box from my running blaster. I've cleaned the carb, all tubes all holes all jets emulsion tube o-rings gasket in the carb. Float level is at 20.5 and not leaking, I tried the carb from my running blaster. Spark is bright blue and steady. Br8es Spark plug is wet but not soaked. I've tried choke full choke half no choke. Exhaust is clean no mice and repacked I have bypassed Key switch handlebar start switch. Tried the ones from my running blaster. I disconnected the parking sensor replace the Torres idle mechanism/wire assembly. I have used all parts from running blaster on non-running blaster. All parts all at once, some parts one by one with combinations of new parts old parts parts from running blaster.
This is not my first complete rebuild all the other rebuilds the blasters will start first or second kick this is the only one I've ever had give me such a headache. 974 ft of elevation and temperature 70°. I believe that is the answer to all your questions. Just to reiterate, everything is to spec per the service manual.