got my yfz arms and this is going to be a nightmare

[phragle]

personally I would cut the upper a-arm mount tubes out of the frame, weld a cross tube in the front and back then reweld the a-arm mount tubes (or fab new ones) back in, in a location where you could put new mounting tabs in the 450's location.. think it out, should take about 2 hours to do, just remember you need to get the steering shaft back in about the same location. foreward or back can be off a little but up and down on the shaft need to be pretty close.

 

[phragle]

If you were closer I could do it for you in an afternoon easy.

 

[wreckedchevy]

I have a buddy down the street with a fab shop and he's always busy as hell i can do most of it myself but don't have a welder/drill press/grinder/chop saw. i've had to do all this with a jigsaw patience and luck..... looking over the measurements again there's just no way to do a bolt on kit and get the dimension's close enough i need to get that top mount over an 1" and there's no way to do it bolt on probably going to scrap it tell i can commit to completely or not at all

 

[nd jat]

Never mind Duh must of been the lack of sleep, Sorry to confuse. I saw the up and downs but not the side to side.

 

[blasterracer817]

ith my design it has 17 inch arms on the bottom so its the same length and i figured i can get 12 and a half to 13 inches of travel by moving the shock mount on the arm to 4 and a half inches from the pivot on the mount, i am also moving the top shock mount to make it almost strait up and down which equates to more travel. mine is using blaster dimensions so all u need to do is bolt on the new designed arms extended tie rods and have me move the to shock mount and she will be good to go, ill be finished with the riteside by the weeks end ill have pics in my thread. and yeas i did my geometry right lol

 

[wreckedchevy]

ith my design it has 17 inch arms on the bottom so its the same length and i figured i can get 12 and a half to 13 inches of travel by moving the shock mount on the arm to 4 and a half inches from the pivot on the mount, i am also moving the top shock mount to make it almost strait up and down which equates to more travel. mine is using blaster dimensions so all u need to do is bolt on the new designed arms extended tie rods and have me move the to shock mount and she will be good to go, ill be finished with the riteside by the weeks end ill have pics in my thread. and yeas i did my geometry right lol

can't wait to see what your doing, my other thought was to just build my own arms but again lack of tools so i just wait

 

[wreckedchevy]

oh man i feel like an idiot it was simple just had to move my brackets around it everything fits up good i can't beleive how much better it handles.... attached a pic for the doubters

freakin looks awesome huh

 

[phragle]

oh man i feel like an idiot it was simple just had to move my brackets around it everything fits up good i can't beleive how much better it handles.... attached a pic for the doubters

freakin looks awesome huh

OMG! what kind of mushrooms were on the pizza I had for lunch??

 

[little3mil]

new pic man please i was going to try this with raptor 350 arms. also 350 front shocks look like they will work too but idk

 

[phragle]

people, its not what shock might work. you want a shock that does work and works well. you can have 6" of travel or 26" if the shocks suck, the suspension sucks.

 

[wreckedchevy]

sorry i was just messing with ya all. i'm not the greatest fabricator by any means but i'm pretty certain it is impossible to just build some brackets and bolt yfz arms onto a blaster and have any kind of stability. to keep everything correct the bottom arm has to be mounted as in the pic below can't be done without useing tons of spacers and crap which is what it would be like after crap....

 

[wreckedchevy]

i had them mounted up the spindle travels straight up and down the but shock was all the way against the upper arm instead of in the center and since the arms weren't mounted true side to side it was keeping them from traveling up all the way it's just one of the jobs that can be done but needs to be done the right way which phragle all ready pointed out just need to cut out the top tube and build it to yfz arm spec's and then build new bottom mounts. thanks all for the input