Full rebuild

Welll i don t have a key, i disconnected the run but it didnt start ill look again i dont remember. When i do a ohms test on the run switch when i switch to run it goes infinity or 1 but when i turn the run switch off it goes like 500 then going down to 0000
 
Blaster fool8 said:
Welll i don t have a key, i disconnected the run but it didnt start ill look again i dont remember. When i do a ohms test on the run switch when i switch to run it goes infinity or 1 but when i turn the run switch off it goes like 500 then going down to 0000
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do a continuity test on the switch. not a ohms test. it will read infinity with the switch on, 0 when the switch is off. use the same setting to trace wires for breaks, good or bad grounds.
 
You can test resistance in the cdi

Use ohms to measure.

First go from where the orange wire connect, to the spark plug wire. Test for resistance between those

Second try from where the orange wire goes and then on the ground.

When we did it in class, we had the meters set on 20,000 ohms. And got about 3.5 on the first, and 2.6 on the second.

Chances are its bad...
 
well im not running the lights so i guess i dont need a voltage reg. i took them off, i dont like the older style light i think they look ugly i love the newer style. Are there any aftermarket CDI's that you guys recommend? oir should i just buy a used, because i dont want to buy a used cdi that doesnt work.
 
What do you guys think about this carb. Keihin 35mm 35mil 35 Mil PWK Chrome Slide Carburetor Carb Banshee Blaster KX CRF | eBay
i dont want to rejet my oem carb because i want a bigger carb. so if i rejet the oem carb and then buy the bigger carb and then rejet it again i think thats a waste of money. so i think ill go right away and buy a bigger carb and buy a jet kit and rejet the bigger carb. Does that make sense, im sorry im not good at explaining things..


but before i do that Can i break the engine in with the oem carb without the proper jets? then rejet the new bigger carb with the engine
 
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Ive Ported and polished the exhaust. Ported the intake ports bigger. Polished the head, bored it over .60 ik boring doesnt really do much. but i need to because of wear and tear. +3 mm vito's stroker stuffer, aftermarket exhaust fmf
 
Ive done all the porting my self and i did it with the help of ken o connor videos exceept for the intake ports in which i did my self by pictures on google with the help of my automotive instructors
 
What type of riding will you be doing? I'm not sure how it will perform on a "Clean up port." I'm guessing you don't have boost ports in the cylinder.
 
i kinda over did the intake ports.. there real big... but i dont think it be much of a problem.. The answer to your question im not sure because i dont like to do just one type of riding i love doing all but i dont race. ( i wish tho)
 
I would get the head rechambered. It's only 50 bucks. I honestly would stick with a stock carb with your mods. You only need to order 4 main jets. Order 270, 280, 290, 300.
 
A stock carb will not be holding your motor back. Save your money and use it for some other things. You can't just put that carb on your bike. You have to buy an intake $50 and a CFM air box $125. Or you can mod your stock airbox. My advice would be run the stock carb. You can always upgrade it later and you get more mods. Concentrate on mods that are cheap and effective. Do you have your flywheel lightened? What are you running for reeds?
 
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