DIY racelogic porting
- Thread starter Arnold
- Start date
OUTSTANDING!!!
That looks really good! Remember what I said about the chamfering.
The re-chambered head will work really well with that porting.
That looks really good! Remember what I said about the chamfering.
The re-chambered head will work really well with that porting.
Yes it is all done with a dermal. I plan on buying the 90 degree angle attachment for it soon
Here are pics of my transfers that I did last year.
And here is what my intake looked like before the race logic porting
And here is what my intake looked like before the race logic porting
Probably about 45-60 min yeah is was fairly easy. Kens video was very detailed n helped out a lot
cool cool thats what I figured looks good still what grit did you use on them? are they rough sanded or shiny what grit was used?
If u watch kens video on porting you'll see the only thing u use sand paper on is the exhaust to make a mirror finish. The intake and transfers are cleaned up with a stone in the dermal. They have to be rough to keep up the turbulence to keep the fuel oil suspended, if it was smoother the fuel would just fall and pool up in the intake
OK guys I got an off question for you, is a ported cylinder a lil easier to kick over then an unported cylinder? I'm waiting to barrow a compression tester to see what I have. N yes I did leak test it and it held 6 1/2 psi for 10 min. I also have to pull the carb off and clean it again cause its overflowing with gas.
being easier to kick over I would say no.. but im not positive. the porting basicly works to increase and get the most from air/fuel flow to the cylinder and raising the exhaust port is kind of like advancing the exhaust valve on a four with a cam.. by raising the exhaust port just a little lets the exhaust out sooner.. thts why such a little is taken out to make such a difference.. so I wouldn't think it would be easier to kick over.. not that a blaster is hard to kick over anyways.. and it depends on what u mean when u say kick over, do u mean as in the actual kicker as in the pressure needed to be applied or easier in meaning the first kick as apposed to three or 4.. on my quads if they don't start first or second kick I knw something is up..
No not yet just got it put together enough to start it n I got a pop after two or three kicks then I noticed the carb was overflowing with gas so I have to fix that too but it does seem like there is a lil less pressure, but then again it has been about 6 months since I have last ran it
How much did the ex raise with the templet?
With longer exhaust timing there is less cylinder to "capture" the mixture. It will be relying on the increased flow from transfers and the stuffing from the expansion chamber to fill the cylinder with more. So if it seems low with a gage don't be overly concerned, unless it doesn't run right such as no rings or piston backwards.
With longer exhaust timing there is less cylinder to "capture" the mixture. It will be relying on the increased flow from transfers and the stuffing from the expansion chamber to fill the cylinder with more. So if it seems low with a gage don't be overly concerned, unless it doesn't run right such as no rings or piston backwards.
I'm not quite sure how much the exhaust port was raised.
I did a compression test n the first two tests showed about 92 psi. I then for the hell of it put a lil two strake oil in the cylinder n tried that and it came out with 100 psi. Last year I had about 135 psi. The only thing I changed was a new crankshaft, diy porting, n had joeak47 re-chamber my head. Idk what could be causing this.
I did a compression test n the first two tests showed about 92 psi. I then for the hell of it put a lil two strake oil in the cylinder n tried that and it came out with 100 psi. Last year I had about 135 psi. The only thing I changed was a new crankshaft, diy porting, n had joeak47 re-chamber my head. Idk what could be causing this.
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