Disc or Drumm?

YamaZuki

New Member
Jul 26, 2012
221
5
0
Upstate NY
I have both setups,both have good bearings,the disc setup seems homemade as thing do not line up propper and after bleeding new fluis thru the right side pulls harder and can be scary.
Question is will i notice a major difference putting the drums on?or should i stick with the disc brakes?Take a hammer to em n try to line em up?
Or just nopt ride so fast i have to use the brakes that hard,that would suck eh?hehe
just looking for experience and thought on this , thanx
 
Drum brakes work just fine as long as they are properly-adjusted, and the cables stay well-lubricated. I've owned a couple Blasters with drum brakes and have had no trouble stopping them.

That said, hydraulic disc brakes give you greater stopping power and stay reliable. It seems drum brakes need constant adjustment to keep the cable-operated mechanisms working properly.

I'd say its worth a shot getting your disc brake system working properly. Got any pics of your setup? If something is damaged or bent, as to render the bike unsafe, it needs to be fixed before you go ride. If it can't be fixed properly, I'd put the drums back on for now.
 
My camera died,need a new one to take final pics after repaint n such.
It isn't really unsafe per say, I am just a perfectionist, i like things in top shape always.
Ty for the reply i may give the drums a try this week ,right now ima go have a blast n tear up the mountain hehe.
 
Well be safe , I've had both setups the stock 88-02 drums and the 03+ hydros and as long as there maintained there both good brake setups
 
My camera died,need a new one to take final pics after repaint n such.
It isn't really unsafe per say, I am just a perfectionist, i like things in top shape always.
Ty for the reply i may give the drums a try this week ,right now ima go have a blast n tear up the mountain hehe.

You're welcome! Just take it easy out there and BE CAREFUL!

It is possible somebody botched a Banshee brake swap on your bike, or perhaps wrecked with a Norman420 spindle conversion and bent something. A warped rotor or unevenly-worn pads can also cause one side to pull harder than the other when stopping.
 
I have both setups,both have good bearings,the disc setup seems homemade as thing do not line up propper and after bleeding new fluis thru the right side pulls harder and can be scary.
Question is will i notice a major difference putting the drums on?or should i stick with the disc brakes?Take a hammer to em n try to line em up?
Or just nopt ride so fast i have to use the brakes that hard,that would suck eh?hehe
just looking for experience and thought on this , thanx

I would stick with the disc brakes, in my experience they are WAY better, Take it too a shop and see what they say about the linup, if they say you need to change it, just do something to scoot it over to where it does line up right...
 
Hydraulic brakes or none.lol I would try and get them hydraulic brakes to work to your standards before switching back to drums. Pics speak a thousand words,videos are even better.
 
I believe the master cylinder needs a rebuild,spongey after bleeding.Ima try to fix em but as i do i will run the drums so i can keep riding,once they got wet today i had barely any brakes,thank god the rears work good but that master needs a rebuild also i belive.
This disc setup is a home fab setup,
And like i said my camera is not working and who knows when i can afoord another.sux
Thanx for all the info guys!!
 
hm whatcha know new batteries n the camera works lmao.The battey bar was full,oh well now i can get finish pics up on my build thread.
 
well i put the drum system on,went thru some mud holes,I have to say i like the drums better,
they have more stopping power after getting wet and are more consistent for meShux i was doin endo's with em..Now i have a hydro system with brand new wheel bearings just laying here collecting dust,oh well.
what to do hum.
 
So i have this hydro setup i won.t use,Calipers lines lever and spindles with hubs with BRAND NEW bearings and seals.these puppies are tight.But it will need pads and the caliper plates lined up better to work propper.I need to funds for my top end rebuild.
 
here they are,the issue was one of the slider pins was frozen causing it to not stay seated at the rotor requiring alot of fluid to operate and the lever was squishy,i tried a known good lever and it was the same.,it is now freed up and lubed.
It will need the tiny rubber boot,other than that everything is here.The lever is a Moose racing lever.
What is a fair price for these setups anyway?This will be goinf toward a total rebuild,bottom to top.
S6300050.jpg

S6300049.jpg

S6300047.jpg
 
i have drums on mine, and my brother had discs and i have to stay that i can stop way faster, if i pull hard enough i can stoppie slide to a stop on the grass and he cant lock them up at all
 
Anyone insterestd in these?Goin to ebay if not,there are 2 setups on there now,one for 400 one for 350,I plan on listing mine on there for 250.
 
are those stock blaster calipers? it looks like diy welded on caliper mounts

also i just got an idea how to make hydro spindles with some of awks calipers, mount the hub clamp the caliper to the rotor with full holding pressure and weld the mount to the spindle, the caliper should hold strait to the rotor (make sure it clamps the pads where you want the contact area) as always i reccomend no one follow my brain dead fab techniques

here is a crappy pic of a blaster disc spindle
03BLASTER25079.jpg


here is a drum spindle
$%28KGrHqJ,!noE-z%29J%29NILBQ!vdkZ2%28w~~60_57.JPG


and the fabled norman420 hubs couldnever beconfused with either of these
 
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