C-list blaster project
- Thread starter Davo
- Start date
Whell after reboring Craigslist jug to 67.25 and weisco piston. She starts up and purs like a kitten. Started brake in warm ups.
Got 1998 carcass for $100. It had about everything I needed. Pretty much stock everything other than bore. Started with a 240 jet. Klotz 32:1 premix.
Got 1998 carcass for $100. It had about everything I needed. Pretty much stock everything other than bore. Started with a 240 jet. Klotz 32:1 premix.
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Question: Where to start jetting this one. Have a 240 in it.
67.25 bore
Stock pipe and exhaust
foam filter w/ or without lid?
Also clutch issue was resolved by switching plates with extra bottom. She at least scoots around the yard and goes in and out of all gears fine.
67.25 bore
Stock pipe and exhaust
foam filter w/ or without lid?
Also clutch issue was resolved by switching plates with extra bottom. She at least scoots around the yard and goes in and out of all gears fine.
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The start of rebuilding and with a nice clean straight frame. The front brake and fender support was re-welded. Bent old frame and broken motor mounts.
This could possibly get moved to the builds thread.
This could possibly get moved to the builds thread.
lookin good davo !
prolly don't even need to wash your hands after working on sumthin that clean
no way will those mods require a 270 main on a stock engine/pipe/carb/intake.
plug chop that 240 and see where you're at, and definately report your findings, we need to start getting baseline jetting documented for this no lid/ 32:1 premix scenario, instead of guessing.
prolly don't even need to wash your hands after working on sumthin that clean
no way will those mods require a 270 main on a stock engine/pipe/carb/intake.
plug chop that 240 and see where you're at, and definately report your findings, we need to start getting baseline jetting documented for this no lid/ 32:1 premix scenario, instead of guessing.
Stock = 230
Foam filter = +1 or 2
Pre mix = +1
No lid = +2
No guessing, a 240 main in winter with no airbox lid is a good way to cook a piston!
Foam filter = +1 or 2
Pre mix = +1
No lid = +2
No guessing, a 240 main in winter with no airbox lid is a good way to cook a piston!
yep, 270 main @ sea level, minus 40 degrees F and a slight airleak
the wealth of proven information already on here does not become obsolete because of your 20:1 mix ratio math.
where's the +1 for each 20 degrees below normal summer temps ?
these are proven facts
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-numbers-the-solution.17259/
show me prior proven jetting without a pipe above 250 ? that ran good ?
99.99% of all 260+ main jetting requires an aftermarket pipe. fact not fiction
the wealth of proven information already on here does not become obsolete because of your 20:1 mix ratio math.
where's the +1 for each 20 degrees below normal summer temps ?
these are proven facts
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-numbers-the-solution.17259/
show me prior proven jetting without a pipe above 250 ? that ran good ?
99.99% of all 260+ main jetting requires an aftermarket pipe. fact not fiction
Won't be doing to much riding or no riding till spring. I live in town and travel to quad parks. Its cold as "@#&!" here. There will multiple plug chops coming from the Blue and Yellow one. Both have different mods. Blue came with a box lid. Yellow did not. They get warmed up twice a week though.
Repacked ball joints and boots Saturday. Cleaned rust off shocks. This thing is a 95, 98, 00 put together.
As for this week. Its engine and swingarm swap preping. Boss Bearing swingarm kit to figure out how to install.
Also when I get bored I have a extra bottom end from the $100 carcass to learn how to split correctly. It had a skirt dropped in it.
Repacked ball joints and boots Saturday. Cleaned rust off shocks. This thing is a 95, 98, 00 put together.
As for this week. Its engine and swingarm swap preping. Boss Bearing swingarm kit to figure out how to install.
Also when I get bored I have a extra bottom end from the $100 carcass to learn how to split correctly. It had a skirt dropped in it.
Whell, I got the project back together over the weekend. But having issues getting her running. She sputters and backfires. It ran fine before the frame swap.
Took her top end all the way down to inspect. Everything jug, piston, top, reeds, carb, intake looked good. Carefully reseated, torqued, and inspected all connects. Checked for spark, new plug, all worked. Cleaned carb. Piston and jug looked beautiful. She turns over and has good compression under her. But wont start. Act's like it wants to and will try sputter. Then backfires once after a few try's.
Took her top end all the way down to inspect. Everything jug, piston, top, reeds, carb, intake looked good. Carefully reseated, torqued, and inspected all connects. Checked for spark, new plug, all worked. Cleaned carb. Piston and jug looked beautiful. She turns over and has good compression under her. But wont start. Act's like it wants to and will try sputter. Then backfires once after a few try's.
since you just swapped everything to a newly painted frame, i'd suspect you didn't sand down to bare frame at the grounds, mainly the ground at the coil for ignition, but also at the voltage regulator for lighting ?
(all black grounds connect together inside the harness anyway)
the coil also needs grounded to bare metal frame inside it's mounts
the other causes of backfiring are bad reed petals and a sheared/missing woodruff key in the flywheel
(all black grounds connect together inside the harness anyway)
the coil also needs grounded to bare metal frame inside it's mounts
the other causes of backfiring are bad reed petals and a sheared/missing woodruff key in the flywheel
