Bought a seized Blaster

[JFortner5]

I bought my first Blaster today, not running. A buddy of mine bought it off some kid last week but found a project truck he wants. To keep his wife happy he had to get rid of something so I am the proud owner of a $300 locked up 2001 Blaster.

The back story from the previous owner was that it got weak and had low compression. The guy installed a new cylinder and piston, rode it a few hours and it locked up.

I got it home today and pulled the head and jug. The wrist pin bearing shattered and sent chunks down into the crank. The piston was not seized, and the cylinder looks great somehow. The piston will not be reused, it has a small peice chipped off the skirt.

After messing with for a little while and getting all of the pieces I could see I can turn the crank about 270*. The inside of the rod is nice and smooth, and there is no up and down play in it. I'll have to look up what is acceptable for side to side but it feels ok.


What would be the best course of action from here? My plan is to split the case and clean it out. Should I buy a crank kit or is it possible to clean everything up and if it checks out run it?

Thanks,
Joey

 

[82cutty]

Welcome to the forum...I would start by spliting the cases and clean it really good . You'll never get all the $hit out if you don't . You could possibly get by with just new crank bearings and seals if the crank is in specs . Or go for a new Hot rods...Vito's or stock crank . Wiseco's cranks have problems so stay away from them . Sounds like it's got an ebay cylinder ? If so scrap that and get a good used stock cylinder...head and a new piston

 

[JFortner5]

I'm not sure how to tell what kind of cylinder it is but I'm guessing it was one of the $80 piston/cylinder kits.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Ken O'CONNOR has a vid that identifies the subtle differences between the various cylinders EXCEPT the Chinese Junkers.
Might post some pics of the ports, they are notoriously crappy.

 

[JFortner5]

Out of curiosity what problems do the Chinese cylinders cause?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Out of curiosity what problems do the Chinese cylinders cause?

Where to start .................

Best thing would be to search "Niche" cylinder . Poor chamfering on ports if at all, casting flash in ports, voids in steel liner if it is bored over. Satisfaction on here has been 50% or less at best. And now exploding wrist pin bearing.

You have what you have. When a complete new top end kit is slightly more than what a bore costs and less than a Wiseco piston it makes you wonder.

The sad part of all of this is the OEM cylinders that are probably being unnecessarily scrapped, and how many complete Blasters this crap will take out of use permanently.

Also search on here for thread by O'CONNOR on this, good info.

This junk is sold under many names, Parts Ace is one that comes to mind.

 

[OConnor Racing]

The Chinese cylinders don't have the Y-1 or Y-2 mark on the intake.

 

[JFortner5]

Thanks for the replies everyone. This place is awesome. I'll check it out tonight.

If it is oem I'll run it. If not I've been looking at them on eBay. I ended up finding the thread on the niche parts late last night and saw some of those pictures. My favorite was when somebody (I believe Ken) was porting the exhaust and hit a big void in the metal.

Thanks again everyone. I'm typing this from the doctors office. I've got bronchitis so I get the rest of the day off to read through the stickies.


Joey

 

[JFortner5]

I finally made a little progress today.

I got the engine out of the frame and on the bench. I tilted it on its side and turned the crank a little bit and got about 5 or 6 more rollers out from the crank. It turns now but doesn't feel as smooth as I'd like, I'm sure the bearings are full of shavings.

Hopefully after work tomorrow I'll get to work on it a little more and hopefully get the cases split so I can really see what I'm dealing with.

 

[Larry's Shee]

When you talk to your buddy find out all you can about what he did for the rebuild. Also, did you do heat cycles and retorque the head and cylinder?

 

[JFortner5]

When you talk to your buddy find out all you can about what he did for the rebuild. Also, did you do heat cycles and retorque the head and cylinder?

He didn't do the rebuild the kid he bought it from did. All we know is that the piston and cylinder were replaced.

I forgot to say last night that I believe it is a Chinese top end kit. The piston is cast and feels really light and cheap. The cylinder doesn't have any markings on it anywhere.

I'm trying to find a used OEM cylinder. I'll be using a Wiseco piston.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Well then at the very least retorque the head and cylinder nuts.

 

[JFortner5]

Can you guys help me understand something? I know the crank is an interference fit into the crank bearings. When the cases are being split, I'm assuming the flywheel side will come off by itself. That will leave the transmission, balancer and crank still in the right (clutch) side of the motor. How do you get the crank out of that side?

I may have mentioned that I've never done any bottom end work on an ATV/dirtbike but plenty of top ends.

 

[jbuckster07]

The best way is to use a press. But not everyone has access to one. Most people here use a harmonic balancer puller from harbor freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/Bolt-Type-Wheel-Puller-Set-69889.html

 

[JFortner5]

Thanks it actually came apart by hand.