New from MI :) ..

Though it's not sealed from factory, seems that they may leak there. Banshees may leak at key, so I just do both on both.
Clean shaft and inside of collàr, light smear inside of collàr at end that goes on first. I use a Q tip.

Another great tool to have is a Clymers Repair Manual.
 
Lon said:
Awesome and once again,thanks so much..That does explain alot..Even if the seal was put in flush with the case,it would still leak because the guy that built it didn't use anything to seal the sleeve/collar to the crank..Not sure why but I ALWAYS end up getting someones half ass jobs not done right..
Click to expand...
That happens alot...lol
 
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Charles said:
Welcome to the Forums!!! Fairly new here myself, and also a Michigander. I'm over more on the west side in Montcalm Co....

We really need to do a MI guy's meet and greet ride.
Click to expand...
Thanks man and yes,that would be awesome...
 
BTW guys,
Whats the easiest way to get the seals out??Im used to car front/rear mains and they have a lip so you can use a flat screw driver to work em out..
Only found one youtube video and the guy used a flat screw driver..He tapped it between the case/seal and worked it out which IMO isn't a good ideal because it puts scratches in the case where the seal sits..
Whenever I do front/rear seals on cars/trucks ect,I always put a paper thin layer of RTV around the outside of the seal before putting it in..Do I need to do the same with theses seals?
The seal kit I bought is a set so should I replace all seals while I have the side cover off or is the crank seals the only ones that allow crank case oil into the cyl??
Seals and flywheel puller showed up yesterday so all im waiting on is the Yamabond which I hope shows up Monday..

 
Don't use rtv on the seals. They are tight enough when going back in. They won't leak around the outside of the seal. You can use a small screwdriver to get those seals out. As for replacing all the other seals, you can do them now or later. If they aren't leaking, no sence in changing them
 
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bansheedave said:
Don't use rtv on the seals. They are tight enough when going back in. They won't leak around the outside of the seal. You can use a small screwdriver to get those seals out. As for replacing all the other seals, you can do them now or later. If they aren't leaking, no sence in changing them
Click to expand...
I did everything just like you said,still burning crank case oil bad but I think I know why..After this video I took it all back apart just so I can go over everything..Got it all back apart so I can see if I can find anything wrong with the seal and didn't so looked at the spacer that slides on the crank into the seal..Felt smooth until I ran a finger nail over it so cleaned it off really good,could see a bunch of TINY scratches that look like someone tried to clean it with very fine sand paper..So im going to buy a sleeve/spacer and another crank seal..Do you or anyone else know what they call it so I can order one asap??Heres the video and I started recording about 10 secs after it started..

 
I made my own leak down tester from parts I picked up at the hardware store. A pressure gauge that reads down to 5 psi or less a shrader valve and various pvc parts. And a piece of rubber or a pipe plug to fit into the exhaust port.
 
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bansheedave said:
I made my own leak down tester from parts I picked up at the hardware store. A pressure gauge that reads down to 5 psi or less a shrader valve and various pvc parts. And a piece of rubber or a pipe plug to fit into the exhaust port.
Click to expand...
Awesome..Going to the hardware store tomorrow so im sure i'll come up with something..Should of don't this in the first place like Blaaster said but everything points to crank seal..Live and learn..Thanks and thanks Blaaster ..
 
Blaaster said:
When you put the collar on smear a little bonding agent on the shaft to seal the collar to the crankshaft.
Click to expand...
Thats what I did when I put the new seal in,used Yamabond...Do you or anyone else know what size the intake boot and exhaust port is?I have calipers but can't seem to find them anywhere...
 
I do have to say I have never used yamahabond or case sealer on the collar and so far in the 15 years I've fooled around with blasters haven't had a leak so I doubt your issue is the collar.

More likely its the case leaking but with out doing a leak down test you wont know for sure.
 
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Took the pipe off and a bunch of oil poured out of it..Was more than this so now im wondering if the engine was burning whats in the pipe..Had enough in it that im sure it was sucking a little into the cylinder..Still going to get what I need for a leak down test but im also cleaning the hell out of the pipe then putting it back on just to see what happens..
 
Jesse8931 said:
I do have to say I have never used yamahabond or case sealer on the collar and so far in the 15 years I've fooled around with blasters haven't had a leak so I doubt your issue is the collar.

More likely its the case leaking but with out doing a leak down test you wont know for sure.
Click to expand...

Please be assured that collars have been known to leak!
 
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