Slamming into gear is what mainly causes the plates to wear the basket, play nurse for a while and it could see the season out.
Rm 250 Problem
- Thread starter DeJay1206
- Start date
I just realized I forgot to bend the lock washer on the clutch hub...lol Good thing I remembered that, looks like I'm taking it apart again!
Quick question, does it matter which way the sharp edge of the steel plates are facing? I would assume as long as they're all in the same direction it would be fine but couldn't see anything in my clymers about direction..
Quick question, does it matter which way the sharp edge of the steel plates are facing? I would assume as long as they're all in the same direction it would be fine but couldn't see anything in my clymers about direction..
I didn't mean that I slam it into gear. Before I filed the basket down when I would shift into first from neutral it would slam and catch aggressively and start lurking forward even with the clutch held in.
When I started it after filing the basket it didn't slam into gear like that. It was smooth and didn't lurk forward when the clutch was in.
So I know 100% now that this was the problem. We'll see how long it lasts. If it starts doing it again soon I'll drop the money on the wiseco or Hinson basket.
I was not inferring that you slammed it into gear, but was meaning that if it was slamming into gear on its own accord the basket would suffer.
Oooh, yeah it's definitely smoother now. I just gotta go for a longer ride and make sure that it's not jerking when I'm slowing down with the throttle off, but I feel like it's gonna be perfect. I'm sure at this point that it was the basket.
After taking it out and seeing how bad the grooves were, it's gotta be the basket that was causing the problem.
Okay, so I got everything back together properly and took it for a ride. The clutch dragging issue is fixed now, but the jerking issue when I'm off the throttle persists. So that leaves me with it being an AFR problem? If I pull the choke and run with the choke open fully it runs spot on. Should I mess with my adjustable choke and air screw or jump right into the pilot and/or needle setting?
Does anybody have any idea how to even Leak test these motors. There's so many valves and hoses that I don't even know what needs blocked off..
Well, I just set the choke and air screw to factory recommended settings and fine tuned it from there. It isn't doing the whole jerking thing anymore. It'll sit there and idle all day, but now once I put it into gear I have to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running or it'll die. Not sure if that's normal, or if I still have some fine tuning to do...
Just wanted to update the thread. I bought a new choke and set it up perfectly. The bike Idles like a champ now.
I'm going to mess with the jetting a bit to get everything perfect. It's still a bit sluggish down low, gonna get a few different sized pilots and see how much of a difference they make.
I set the needle to the 2nd position and that improved the low end significantly.
Awk referred me to his jetting thread and I'm using that to get this thing dialed in!
I'm going to mess with the jetting a bit to get everything perfect. It's still a bit sluggish down low, gonna get a few different sized pilots and see how much of a difference they make.
I set the needle to the 2nd position and that improved the low end significantly.
Awk referred me to his jetting thread and I'm using that to get this thing dialed in!
