Won’t idle

Bighoss860

New Member
Mar 3, 2024
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Hey all, have a 89 blaster that has been sitting outside for years. Firstly it wouldn’t run so did all the basics compression good at 120psi, rebuilt the carb installed all new gaskets on the top end new reeds air filter, cleaned the gas tank with fresh 93 gas new stator and fly wheel as the old one was toast from what looked like water logged. The bike will start but idles high. Have not tried to ride it yet. It has the toes delete installed I’m at a loss here I’ve done all but a leak down test as I don’t have the tester(will be ordering one) anything I could do or test until it arrives?
Thanks!
 
Hey there Hoss.

When you rebuilt the carb, I'm suspecting you found it pretty nasty inside with residue from long gone stale fuel.

When you rebuilt the carb, did you ensure all the fuel circuits in the carb body itself were clean and clear? Often times these circuits, particularly the pilot, idle air, and choke circuits are very difficult to get cleared out, especially the pilot fuel circuit. Any hope of restoring the carb to good working order usually relies on a carb soak solution and/or ultrasonic cleaning for several hours.

If that's all good to go, have you tried making adjustments to the idle mixture and speed?


If after making adjustments you still have a lean/high idle condition, you likely have an air leak. Being that you replaced the top end gaskets and reeds that should eliminate any sources of leaks from the top end. Your next suspect would be the crank seals. Being that it sat for a long time it is very possible your crank seals have lost their flexibility and sealing properties. Do ensure you don't have fuel delivery issues before tearing in to replace the crank seals though as it's a bit more of an involved job.


And yes, your leak down tester will help you zero in on if there is an air leak and where it is. You can somewhat cheat a little, remove your stator cover, start the engine and spray a few snorts of fuel mix from a Windex bottle behind the flywheel. If there is an air leak at the flywheel side crank seal, you should see the idle speed go down. Clutch side seal you really can't conduct that test unfortunately as the crank seal is not accessible with the engine in a starting/running state.
Good luck
 
Hey there Hoss.

When you rebuilt the carb, I'm suspecting you found it pretty nasty inside with residue from long gone stale fuel.

When you rebuilt the carb, did you ensure all the fuel circuits in the carb body itself were clean and clear? Often times these circuits, particularly the pilot, idle air, and choke circuits are very difficult to get cleared out, especially the pilot fuel circuit. Any hope of restoring the carb to good working order usually relies on a carb soak solution and/or ultrasonic cleaning for several hours.

If that's all good to go, have you tried making adjustments to the idle mixture and speed?


If after making adjustments you still have a lean/high idle condition, you likely have an air leak. Being that you replaced the top end gaskets and reeds that should eliminate any sources of leaks from the top end. Your next suspect would be the crank seals. Being that it sat for a long time it is very possible your crank seals have lost their flexibility and sealing properties. Do ensure you don't have fuel delivery issues before tearing in to replace the crank seals though as it's a bit more of an involved job.


And yes, your leak down tester will help you zero in on if there is an air leak and where it is. You can somewhat cheat a little, remove your stator cover, start the engine and spray a few snorts of fuel mix from a Windex bottle behind the flywheel. If there is an air leak at the flywheel side crank seal, you should see the idle speed go down. Clutch side seal you really can't conduct that test unfortunately as the crank seal is not accessible with the engine in a starting/running state.
Good luck
Just sprayed some gas oil mix behind flywheel and motor reved higher…..
 
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Well, sounds like you have at least one leaking crank seal then. Revving higher can also occur depending on how bad the air leak is and how much fuel you put to it.
 
Well, sounds like you have at least one leaking crank seal then. Revving higher can also occur depending on how bad the air leak is and how much fuel you put to it.
Is there an easy way to tell just from looks if the seal is bad?
 
Not really. Leakdown test or what you have done spraying fuel behind the flywheel really tells you. The seal may not be cracked but may have lost its flexibility and sealing ability due to age and sitting for a long period of time.
 
Not really. Leakdown test or what you have done spraying fuel behind the flywheel really tells you. The seal may not be cracked but may have lost its flexibility and sealing ability due to age and sitting for a long period of time.
Sounds good, I’ll do the seals is there anything else I should look for /replace once I have it apart?
 
I'm not entirely sure if the seals can be replaced without splitting the case, but I tend to think they can be if done carefully. If you do end up splitting the case, I would replace the crank and counterbalancer bearings while I'm there. Fairly inexpensive insurance at about $50 for all four bearings.

But in terms of any other possible air leaks, the crank seals should take care of it
 
Found the intake boot and clamp were no good, as well as the left side crank seal as I did a leak down test will advise after new parts are installed thanks for the help!
 
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