Rm 250 Problem

jumpyness can also be the type of trans fluid your running. different bikes, different clutches like different fluids. i perfer using atf. but i have had grabbing with it in one bike at one time. it was kinda odd. but after changing it with fresh fluid, it went away. just something to think about also.
 
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I noticed something today when I was riding. It actually completely stops when I pull the choke out.... runs like crap and real boggy but the jumping stops... Assuming i need to mess with the pilot and either go bigger or smaller and maybe mess with the needle?
 
Good luck with that leak down :rolleyes:
I don't think you can get a PV engine to hold, at least not without lots of work. The trans vents through the PV so anything coming out vent tube, is it just what's leaking past PV or is it a case leak, crank seal? If you have comeplete clutch cover off at least check crank seal with soapy water.
89 rm I recently did , I was satisfied with small leak on PV cover screw, which you can't get at with eng/cyl in bike.
AS to clutch, file the basket. Even if you don't get grooves 100%, still better than what it is. Make sure plates don't index like Blasters and PP is corect. Don't forget washer.

Sometimes an engine/set-up will have a "spot" that seems like no matter what you can't eliminate. It could be due to aftermarket pipe, or just engine design, Quadzilla is good example. Without lots of testing/parts such as different cutaway slides, needles, emulsion tubes, you may just have to live with it.
 
Larry's Shee said:
Good luck with that leak down :rolleyes:
I don't think you can get a PV engine to hold, at least not without lots of work. The trans vents through the PV so anything coming out vent tube, is it just what's leaking past PV or is it a case leak, crank seal? If you have comeplete clutch cover off at least check crank seal with soapy water.
89 rm I recently did , I was satisfied with small leak on PV cover screw, which you can't get at with eng/cyl in bike.
AS to clutch, file the basket. Even if you don't get grooves 100%, still better than what it is. Make sure plates don't index like Blasters and PP is corect. Don't forget washer.

Sometimes an engine/set-up will have a "spot" that seems like no matter what you can't eliminate. It could be due to aftermarket pipe, or just engine design, Quadzilla is good example. Without lots of testing/parts such as different cutaway slides, needles, emulsion tubes, you may just have to live with it.
Click to expand...
not to many people tune the carbs with different slides. I find that 90% of people don't know there are different slide cutouts. im working on a 95 rm right now. so many vents..
 
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Yeah, I gotta get a few tools to get the rm to be able to hold pressure for a leak test.

It's not acting like an air leak though...

I don't know if the pilot or needle would affect the jerking or not but like I said, when I pull the choke it runs fine without the jerking.
 
What are the symptoms of a bad clutch basket? Mine has grooves in it, but I don't know if they're more worn in than they should be.

My bike jumps/jerks until I hit the gas. Doesn't matter if I'm at low rpms or flying down a trail, once I let off the gas it "jerks" like the transmission is trying to grab or something until I hit the gas. As soon as I hit the gas, it goes away.

Not real sure what's going on... but I'm thinking maybe it's a worn clutch basket?

Also, if I hold the clutch in and try to push the bike it still feels like it's in gear and is real hard to push.

And, until the bike is totally warmed up if I put it into gear it will stall out because the transmission catches, but once it's completely warmed up it stops doing that.


Any ideas?

I'm going to order a clutch basket if that seems to be what the problem is, but don't want to waste $200 on one if I don't need it...
 
DeJay1206 said:
Tested the compression today just to get a baseline and to see if the guy was telling the truth about a fresh rebuild...Tested at 210. Pretty happy with that
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Is that 210 a mistype for 110, if not it is going to cost a fortune in high octane race fuel!

Give the basket a file up, it may fix the problems.

How old is the oil in there, and what oil is it.
 
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he is talking about a rm 250 which should be normal compression,and dejay you got alot of problems lol.
The bike has probably been raced to hell,but you need to change the oil very frequently or no matter what parts you replace it is going to slam into gear when you first start out.
 
post pics of the basket and grooves. they can be filed. but can only be done once than it will require a new basket if they get bad again. i just filed the basket of an RM i am working on now, it was bad. 210 is a good compression for that motor. ive had higher on another bike, but i did need race gas for that. you will be fine to run 93 or better where ever your at.
 
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speedyslyder said:
he is talking about a rm 250 which should be normal compression,and dejay you got alot of problems lol.
The bike has probably been raced to hell,but you need to change the oil very frequently or no matter what parts you replace it is going to slam into gear when you first start out.
Click to expand...

The only things wrong with it were the idling, which is fixed. and this issue with the clutch. He thought it was the plates so bought a brand new clutch kit.

Plus I have receipts and warranties on the top end, it was just rebuilt. I got this thing for a steal!

I've been changing the oil every ride.

I asked the guy about racing and he said that he never did, but he only rode at a few places where there were tracks. He was a small guy and said that the bike was too big for him to race.

Everything else about the bike is absolutely rock solid though, just gotta get the clutch situation figured out.

5l0uie.jpg

dr7ek4.jpg
 
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bansheedave said:
post pics of the basket and grooves. they can be filed. but can only be done once than it will require a new basket if they get bad again. i just filed the basket of an RM i am working on now, it was bad. 210 is a good compression for that motor. ive had higher on another bike, but i did need race gas for that. you will be fine to run 93 or better where ever your at.
Click to expand...

Yeah, she starts up first kick every time. I learned the hard way that I need to ride with boots though, that kicker coming back up can do some damage!

I just checked the compression to get a baseline for it with it being a new top end.
 
I'm probably just going to get a new Hinson or Wiseco Billet basket.... but was hoping this would last until the end of the season and I could replace over the winter...


But, the way it's acting, it has to be somethign with the clutch. And considering it's got brand new clutch plates I would have to believe it's the basket. I'm just not sure how bad a "bad" basket is grooved and where mine falls into that category....

Just hoping that this is the problem, cause $200 for a basket isn't cheap!
 
if your lucky maybe they did not replace both steel and fiber plates and springs yah know.:)
Did we ever figure out what oil you are using? and it is 750ml of oil :)
 
the basket looks like the one i filed. pull the basket, file the grooved fingers. they dont need to be perfect, but it will help. smooth is what your after. like i said, its a one time repair. because if you file them again, you open the width up causing to much slop. .
 
speedyslyder said:
if your lucky maybe they did not replace both steel and fiber plates and springs yah know.:)
Did we ever figure out what oil you are using? and it is 750ml of oil :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, he replaced it all. I used bel ray gear saver the first few times, then switched back to good old ATF Type F.

I know from research that these oem clutch baskets are garbage and are known for going back FAST, who knows if this is the original basket? I think rather than shaving it down I'd rather just get a new Billet basket and know that it's good to go and know that I won't have to replace it for a really long time, if ever.
 
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