yea the same happened to me i wanted to put the clarke gas cap on mine and it was cross threading
experimental swingarm!!!
- Thread starter 79 bronco
- Start date
After doing some research and reading the customer reviews on the Tusk billet IMS gas cap i found out im not the only one that had this problem.. Most of the the people liked the cap because it adds BLING and fits good, but two reviews had the same problem i have and one of them sent the cap back and got a new cap that fit. The caps must be marked wrong!!
great job man. if you want to try on other swingers to fit i have a few. a suzuki a yfz450 and a tri-z one if you wanna try them out. just pm me. but awesome job man. they look real good
I killed my new bearings, the All Balls swingarm bearing are junk compared to the factory bearings.. the left is a used factory bearing and the right is a All Balls bearing..
I killed the bearing trying to put the collar in.. The Swingarm front pivots are EGG SHAPED 
from tig welding a block on for the grease fittings, and the long side is worse from welding the gusset to it.. I had no problem pressing the bearing in to the pivots because they flexed to the egg shape. The collar on the short side was a tight fit, and the collar on the long side just killed the bearing..
I dont know if im going to bump the front pivots in the press on the large side, or run a adjustable reamer through it..
from tig welding a block on for the grease fittings, and the long side is worse from welding the gusset to it.. I had no problem pressing the bearing in to the pivots because they flexed to the egg shape. The collar on the short side was a tight fit, and the collar on the long side just killed the bearing..I dont know if im going to bump the front pivots in the press on the large side, or run a adjustable reamer through it..
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The factory bearings are around $16.00 - $19.00... They have a 22mm ID X 28mm OD, and have a 19.66mm Width
I think this bearing will fit. Its $9.12 >>> Shell Needle Roller Bearings - Radial Ball Bearings | MSCDirect.com
I think this bearing will fit. Its $9.12 >>> Shell Needle Roller Bearings - Radial Ball Bearings | MSCDirect.com
Thanks for posting this. Was worried about distorting or twisting the shape of the arm but hadn't thought about the pivot tubes. I'll turn a couple inserts to try and hold the tube shape on my project while I final weld. Looks like less rollers in those bearings also ... china stuff I suspect
With the swingarm on the table the pivot tubes are about .005 large up to down and about .005 small left to right. I did not like looking at the ugly factory welds that held the pivot tubes on the swingarm so i HAD to go over them with the tig and some filler to make them look better.. That did not help!!!
When i welded the arm i just did a short spot at a time to keep the heat down and to help prevent distorting or twisting.. That did not help the pivots!!!
When i welded the arm i just did a short spot at a time to keep the heat down and to help prevent distorting or twisting.. That did not help the pivots!!!
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I got the bearings from MSC today >>>Shell Needle Roller Bearings - Radial Ball Bearings | MSCDirect.com
The two bearings in the middle are from MSC both ends on it are different, and it has 23 needle roller. The factory bearing in the left has 24 needle roller. The All Balls bearing on the right has 20 needle roller..
The two bearings in the middle are from MSC both ends on it are different, and it has 23 needle roller. The factory bearing in the left has 24 needle roller. The All Balls bearing on the right has 20 needle roller..
The bearings from MSC fit in the swingarm great. I ran a adjustable reamer through the pivot tubes until i got the size that i thought may work or may be a bit tight, next i put in a old factory bearing in then started to put the collar in, but it felt to tight so i took the bearing back out, and gave the adjustable reamer about 1/4 turn then ran it back through, then put the bearing back in and then i put the collar in. BUT the collar was very hard to spin in the bearing so i took the collar and bearing back out, gave the adjustable reamer about 1/4 turn then put the bearing and collar in and the collar spins fine now..........
Are you talking about the round house carrier????
I got the flame Carrier Housing Tube, and Front Pivots, and Bullet Pinch Bolts, and a RECONDITIONED Blue Anodized 35mm Twin-Row Banshee Carrier >>>> http://www.jjandaracing.com/index.html click on GARAGE SALE to see used and reconditioned carriers...
I trashed the paint job on the swingarm from clamping it to the table to run the reamer through and handling it so much with fresh paint.. But that is ok, i'm going to put it on to see if it will fit right, and make some thing to zip tie the brake line and E-brake cable to, like a thin rod raised off the arm on the right side about 8" long, and weld it on. Then i will take it off and put some new paint on it..
This might be a little too late... but I have never had good luck with AllBallsRacing seals. I'm pretty sure all they do is cross reference the OEM bearings/seals to whatever they can buy cheapeast from China.... They throw it in a fancy box and call it a kit. The OEM seals on my 1984 honda are in better shape than the allballs ones I put on my buddy's 2003 a few years ago. If they can't make a seal right then who knows how far off they are on the hardness of steel bushings.
I called Works today to get the closed length of my rear works shock..
Works rear shock is 15" open and 11" closed with no bumper stop.
Works front shock is 14 1/2 open and 10 3/4 closed with no bumper stop.
STOCK rear shock is 15" open and about 11 3/4 to 11 13/16 closed with no bumper stop.
Works rear shock is 15" open and 11" closed with no bumper stop.
Works front shock is 14 1/2 open and 10 3/4 closed with no bumper stop.
STOCK rear shock is 15" open and about 11 3/4 to 11 13/16 closed with no bumper stop.
I had the swingarm on my blaster and it fit good, and i welded a piece of angle to it so i can ziptie the brake line and E-brake cable to hold them in place. I also had a problem with the grease fitting on the right side. The grease fitting will just hit the clutch cover when the suspension is collapsed all they way down just before my air box hits my swingarm.. Do i have to go that low?? I dont know?? But i was prepared for this with some shorter grease fitting.. The paint was trashed so i sanded it and put some new paint on it..
Can you see the spot under the bolt on the clutch cover where the grease fitting hit!
The top right grease fitting is the old one and the other 3 are the shorter grease fittings
The bottom grease fitting is a VERY very VERY small grease fitting i got out of a old broken CV joint from my bronco. It wont fit because it has 1/8" NPTF thread, and my swingarm has 1/4"-28 thread.
New paint!!
Megatron is stealing my grease fittings..
Can you see the spot under the bolt on the clutch cover where the grease fitting hit!
The top right grease fitting is the old one and the other 3 are the shorter grease fittings
The bottom grease fitting is a VERY very VERY small grease fitting i got out of a old broken CV joint from my bronco. It wont fit because it has 1/8" NPTF thread, and my swingarm has 1/4"-28 thread.
New paint!!
Megatron is stealing my grease fittings..
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