Blaster is Backfiring

10 out of 10 ppl I've heard recommended BR8es. Not saying ure full of it or anything but ure the 1st person to suggest a plug other than the BR8es. I ran it for as long as I owed my blaster (4 mos) nd never fouled a plug

me and pharangle (the godfather) with much experimentation found it to be a more reliable plug and burns much more efficiently than the es plug which is a traditional cheapo copper core plug.. the es in my experience likes to mysteriously malfunction or foul...give it some time i promise urs will foul hahaI:I

the br9eg is a great race plug..ran it in all of my race mx 2-strokes that all were heavily modified

also why alot of the old timers on here recommend the es is because they are set in their ways because thats what the book says haha if yamaha asked them to jump they say "how high?" lol
 
I will drop a 290 in it tomorrow afternoon, Im at 780 feet above sea level with 60 degree weather. But your saying im lean all the way around? at idle mid and main?

deff try the 290 main and if thats too fat try a 280..backfiring is the key indications of having too much air.
my blaster when i jetted it for sea level to 1000ft elev. was running a 300 to 310 main but i had some major port work
 
everytime i get a big backfire issue like that its due to being too lean or a major air leak..(usually the head come out of spec and sucks air)..re torque the head and make sure your base gaskest hasnt failed and torque those nuts as well also torque the reed cage and make sure you have the hose clamps to the carb tight... i personally today rebuild an +03 with your exact mods but with a new top end with bore and hone and it was running like crap and backfiring till i dropped a 290main jet in (mind you im at 5600ft elev.) im thinking you are rather lean..also use a Ngk br8eg plug rather than the br8es (me and the godfather have been using and like that plug since its a bit more reliable with modded bikes and never ever fouls) gap it to .030. also dont be scared to mess with the air screw on the carb sometimes if its too loose it makes the bike act funny..if these suggestions dont fix your bike i will personally let you borrow my 450r for the weekend so u can ride

Well great, now he isn't going to even touch the Blaster. I:I
 
So just put the 290 in and see what happens huh? Just dont understand with a 270 and putting the airbox lid on why it got worse. If its lean that should have helped
mine does that too..the lid restricts tooo much air if you have even the slightest mods it seems and doesnt allow it to breathe ..its a game of evils haha
 
deff try the 290 main and if thats too fat try a 280..backfiring is the key indications of having too much air.
my blaster when i jetted it for sea level to 1000ft elev. was running a 300 to 310 main but i had some major port work

If he has to run a 290 with essentially just an air filter and the timing advance, then he has an air leak as far as I'm concerned.
 
What are some typical areas they leak at?

Well anywhere, but TYPICALLY around the intake manifold/reed cage area. After that it's typically the head gasket, then base gasket, then crank seals.

I would still back the timing down first and check the key. No need to start tearing the engine apart if it's fine and sealed already. If you start it up again after putting the timing back to stock and the key is fine, and it still is backfiring, then you know ASAP to stop and the issue is more than likely an air leak.
 
What are some typical areas they leak at?

typical leaks are all the ones i mentioned before.

spark plug, jetting and carb adjustment, gasket check and torque..all that should solve the issue..if that doest not fix it then you will have to do a compression and leak down test to try to pin point the problem..
 
Well anywhere, but TYPICALLY around the intake manifold/reed cage area. After that it's typically the head gasket, then base gasket, then crank seals.

I would still back the timing down first and check the key. No need to start tearing the engine apart if it's fine and sealed already. If you start it up again after putting the timing back to stock and the key is fine, and it still is backfiring, then you know ASAP to stop and the issue is more than likely an air leak.

and what he said haha.. if you combine what me and lrd are saying you will be up n running in no timeI:I