What changes do I have to do?

I'm losing my mind!! I did a leak down test held 7 psi for over 15 minutes. Took apart carb looked at pilot jet and it was clean and clear bumped jet size down from a 340 to a 320. Float level is at 21mm. Reeds brand new. Top end has 150 compression. So I started it up after leak down test ,let it warmed up and it rode a little better crisper throttle. But then after about 20min of riding it just completely dies on me and does not wanna run at all!!!!

You changed one thing here from what I see. Describe "does not run at all." It physically will not crank, or it makes no power? Did you notice anything else whatsoever?

Put in my buddy's coil and CDI box off his blaster that runs fine and didnt change problem. It starts up good when cold then 1-2 mins and bogs and dies. Put on a different stator that I had laying around but don't know its a good stator or not. 150psi compression, held 7 psi for over 10 mins in leak down, new Vforce 4, new plug, not the coil or cdi, clean carburetor, clean air box, motor completely rebuild so I can rule out crank being bad...... What else is there?????

Is the washer under the main jet? Just how sure are you that you cleaned every single bit of the carb? Did you knock the tank around after cleaning the carb? *if so, you may have to clean the carb again* Is your flywheel key sheared? Is it ANY harder to kick? What sequence of events lead up to the engine dying?

I have seen another applications where the flywheel and crank had some kind of old gunk on it and it caused some near-paranormal running conditions. The owner put it together and it ran fine. Quit running, wouldn't start. While kicking, it tried to fire and he replaced the plug. Started on the very next kick and then died about 2 seconds later. Wouldn't start again. Nuts. The key sheared and the flywheel rotated aronud bit by bit until it got in a running range and then rotated back out. The gunk just made the process slower. Hell, idk, check that as well.
 
I'm losing my mind!! I did a leak down test held 7 psi for over 15 minutes. Took apart carb looked at pilot jet and it was clean and clear bumped jet size down from a 340 to a 320. Float level is at 21mm. Reeds brand new. Top end has 150 compression. So I started it up after leak down test ,let it warmed up and it rode a little better crisper throttle. But then after about 20min of riding it just completely dies on me and does not wanna run at all!!!!

You changed one thing here from what I see. Describe "does not run at all." It physically will not crank, or it makes no power? Did you notice anything else whatsoever?

Put in my buddy's coil and CDI box off his blaster that runs fine and didnt change problem. It starts up good when cold then 1-2 mins and bogs and dies. Put on a different stator that I had laying around but don't know its a good stator or not. 150psi compression, held 7 psi for over 10 mins in leak down, new Vforce 4, new plug, not the coil or cdi, clean carburetor, clean air box, motor completely rebuild so I can rule out crank being bad...... What else is there?????

Is the washer under the main jet? Just how sure are you that you cleaned every single bit of the carb? Did you knock the tank around after cleaning the carb? *if so, you may have to clean the carb again* Is your flywheel key sheared? Is it ANY harder to kick? What sequence of events lead up to the engine dying?

I have seen another applications where the flywheel and crank had some kind of old gunk on it and it caused some near-paranormal running conditions. The owner put it together and it ran fine. Quit running, wouldn't start. While kicking, it tried to fire and he replaced the plug. Started on the very next kick and then died about 2 seconds later. Wouldn't start again. Nuts. The key sheared and the flywheel rotated aronud bit by bit until it got in a running range and then rotated back out. The gunk just made the process slower. Hell, idk, check that as well.
 
You changed one thing here from what I see. Describe "does not run at all." It physically will not crank, or it makes no power? Did you notice anything else whatsoever?
I took flywheel off and sanded it. The key is not sheared. Also what washer under the main jet.


Is the washer under the main jet? Just how sure are you that you cleaned every single bit of the carb? Did you knock the tank around after cleaning the carb? *if so, you may have to clean the carb again* Is your flywheel key sheared? Is it ANY harder to kick? What sequence of events lead up to the engine dying? And was running rough and I was doing so trial runs then it just died on me

I have seen another applications where the flywheel and crank had some kind of old gunk on it and it caused some near-paranormal running conditions. The owner put it together and it ran fine. Quit running, wouldn't start. While kicking, it tried to fire and he replaced the plug. Started on the very next kick and then died about 2 seconds later. Wouldn't start again. Nuts. The key sheared and the flywheel rotated aronud bit by bit until it got in a running range and then rotated back out. The gunk just made the process slower. Hell, idk, check that as well.
 
You have mentioned coil, ignition or source?

Methodically go through electrical from stator to spark plug. Check that all connections are clean and tight, all grounds, stator to plate and plate to crankcase. Bypass all switches (if only temp) Ohm all you can, make sure ign coil has clean, bare metal at mount.
Go through every in of wire harness lookin for chaffing, breaks, splices, "extras" that go no where but may ground out.
Try another new plug.
 
You have mentioned coil, ignition or source?

Methodically go through electrical from stator to spark plug. Check that all connections are clean and tight, all grounds, stator to plate and plate to crankcase. Bypass all switches (if only temp) Ohm all you can, make sure ign coil has clean, bare metal at mount.
Go through every in of wire harness lookin for chaffing, breaks, splices, "extras" that go no where but may ground out.
Try another new plug.
I was talking about ignition coil. and I took stator off and sanded all around to a bare metal. also can you time a stock stator or is it only one position untill you DreMel the holes
 
Remove stator cover and pull the flywheel...need a flywheel puller . The trigger coil sends the signal from the flywheel spinning and sends it to fire the coil for the spark plug
Its been off twice I've sanded the metal down di it gets good contact
 
There are 2 coils on the stator plate for the ignition , one supplies the power ( source coil) the other is the trigger ( pickup coil ).


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There should be a brass washer fitted under the main jet, if it is missing problems with the jetting may be experienced!
 
There should be a brass washer fitted under the main jet, if it is missing problems with the jetting may be experienced!
So rook carb off for the 5th time to inspect it and this happens.. The needle /main jet tube came out. Does this mean new carb? If so where can I get a decent one not Chinese?
 

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That's supposed to be able to come out. It goes in from the top and then the washer and main jet hold it in.
 
There should be a brass washer fitted under the main jet, if it is missing problems with the jetting may be experienced!
Nailed it on the head!!! Got a buddy with a spare carb took the washer and putting it all back now let yall know thanks!!
 
Nailed it on the head!!! Got a buddy with a spare carb took the washer and putting it all back now let yall know thanks!!

It will still run without the washer...not good for the bike . Run like crap jetting will be off . You can get those washers at home depot they're 5mm . 10 for like 50 cents
 
It will still run without the washer...not good for the bike . Run like crap jetting will be off . You can get those washers at home depot they're 5mm . 10 for like 50 cents
Put the washer on aND runs like a damn champ 100x more power THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!
 
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