TWal Complete Blaster Rebuild

What's the cylinders bore? You can bore it if there's meat left in it
I'm pretty sure its stock but I can measure it when I'm back at home. My main concern is that one of those rods is missing but I haven't looked into it at all. Its very hard to describe what I'm talking about without pictures.
 
Your talking about the clutch push rods? If so, just get a new one from a dealer. And make sure the little bearing is there as well. If you send it to ken, I believe he has all those parts in stock or available. Check his web site or call him.
 
Are you talking about the studs from the case halves to the bottom of the jug?

Or the studs on the jug to the head?
I THINK I'm talking about the studs on the jug that connect to the head... I think. Now that you put it like that I can't even remember which I thought were screwed up. I'll have to look and take some detailed pictures... haha.


Your talking about the clutch push rods? If so, just get a new one from a dealer. And make sure the little bearing is there as well. If you send it to ken, I believe he has all those parts in stock or available. Check his web site or call him.
They have nothing to do with the clutch, I remember them being attached to the cylinder. Like I said I don't remember exactly where they were but I'll get some good pictures soon. I do plan on sending this to Ken and having him add any missing parts for me.
 
I was just going by the way you were describing it. Since the pic shows the head still attached to the jug and no top views of it, can't tell. I see all four studs in the case so that's good. Depending on how badly pitted your sleeve is, if it is stock bore, it should clean up real nice. It will probably get bead blasted prior to getting bored so no rust will be there when you get it back.
 
As I mentioned above, I will be sending this to Ken O'Connor to work his magic. I'm also considering buying a whole new top end as well (since I need a new piston and the cylinder has seen better days) but am not set on anything yet. Give me your thoughts!

just wait till ken gets his hands on it and assesses the damages, unless already bored close to max, that cylinder may clean up nicely.
no sense buying uneeded parts until you get his report I:I
 
I was just going by the way you were describing it. Since the pic shows the head still attached to the jug and no top views of it, can't tell. I see all four studs in the case so that's good. Depending on how badly pitted your sleeve is, if it is stock bore, it should clean up real nice. It will probably get bead blasted prior to getting bored so no rust will be there when you get it back.
Yeah I'll have to look it over again to attempt to figure out why I thought something was missing. It would be great to not have to buy a new top end (besides the piston).


just wait till ken gets his hands on it and assesses the damages, unless already bored close to max, that cylinder may clean up nicely.
no sense buying uneeded parts until you get his report
Absolutely! I thoroughly agree. I'll probably end up making that quest over to CT this summer with everything I have to get a quote or to start rebuilding right away. Ken seems to do what he does very well and I'm really looking forward to having the engine built!
 
if your gonna have 1 built ken is the only 1
That's what I've been told!

Has anyone had a motor completely rebuilt by Ken O'Connor? If so, would you mind sharing the price? I've checked out his price listings online for individual jobs but I don't know how the cost of labor, etc. would factor in. I plan on getting an official quote eventually but I'd love to have a ballpark estimate now.
 
His prices include time I believe. So porting for 150 is 150 said and done.

I think his bottom end checkinf it out is 220? But I would assume that included time, but not extra parts if you are missing any...

O'Connor Racing
 
OConnor racing pm him
Done! Thank you.


His prices include time I believe. So porting for 150 is 150 said and done.

I think his bottom end checkinf it out is 220? But I would assume that included time, but not extra parts if you are missing any...
Wow... what a great deal. For the amount of money I paid for the thing having this work done for under $500 would make me a very happy man. I sent him a message and will hopefully have the chance to journey over to his shop for an assessment of missing parts/full quote one of these days.
 
Ken has built me multiple motors (blaster and banshee) and they perform great. He will steer you in the right direction. All you have to do is tell him what kind of terrain you will be riding and give him a budget. He will give you your best bang for your buck. I would suggest getting it ported and getting the head Rechambered while it's there. It's a little more money, but a LOT more fun.
 
Ken has built me multiple motors (blaster and banshee) and they perform great. He will steer you in the right direction. All you have to do is tell him what kind of terrain you will be riding and give him a budget. He will give you your best bang for your buck. I would suggest getting it ported and getting the head Rechambered while it's there. It's a little more money, but a LOT more fun.
This is absolutely great to hear! It seems as though everyone has something good to say about Ken. Really looking forward to having the money to go out and get this done!

Also, I'd like to get an open discussion going on regarding wheels/tires and gear ratios. I'm going to be doing a lot of trail riding with this Blaster and want as much ground clearance as possible. Quite frankly, I like the look of a bigger tire as well, and want to see pictures/hear comments about how big is too big regarding Blaster tire sizes. Also, what are some good options for wheels? I'd like to get bigger wheels along with the tires so the whole thing looks very uniform and the rear wheels don't look too small.

Please, tell me what you think! PICTURES ARE GREATLY WELCOMED!
 
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for the rear you will be better off with a 9" rim . You will have more of a selection of tires. You could go with a 10'' rim but Imo you would be better with a 9''. Also some wheel spacers for the front and rear. That's the cheaper way other than a wider axle and or wider front a arms. A banshee rear axle is a nice choice to and is wider as well. They can be had on e bay for cheap sometimes and since your tearing things down already and your going to have some time keep your eyes open for one.. I would also go with a 400 rear shock ltz400 400 ex etc.. They too can be had for cheap and r a great upgrade for the $$. When you talk to Ken ask him about the rear shock bushings, you will need them.. As far as tire size I run 18'' and im close to the ground, if there is mud I try and float over it of sorts if I can. If not than im stuck. My rear tire and rim combo does me no justice in the mud. I mostly ride fields though so they work for me..