Ordered a 41 tooth rear sprocket today for $30 The front sprocket and chain are practically brand new (Fear not blaaster!)
Tab = $2,590
Tab = $2,590
TRX450R Rebuild
- Thread starter Wifesblaster
- Start date
You plan on keeping this one? I hope so.. You cant put all this $$ and effort into it just to sell,, well not yet anyways..
I think I might keep it. I figured before I am able to judge its performance I should hop it up a little.
Add a case saver to the list. Just me hooked me up for $12. Thanks bro. We'll call it $10 to keep the numbers rounded off.
Tab = $2,600
Tab = $2,600
Ordering the parts is the easy part for me. Finding the time and patience is the hardest for me.
Looks great ... Good parts are not cheap so they should last longer than 15 hrs
Yeah I figure if your going to build it mind as well spend the extra coin on the best parts available.
I work at a Honda dealership. Of all the guys who ride Hondas, and by ride I mean really punish them, I've only seen one fail and that was due to a cracked case that went unnoticed for about 5 minutes. 15 hours is for the most extreme of circumstances, I can assure you. It applies to that 1% who can ride so good that the bike is truly limiting them and they still try to see what it has left.
I'm porting the head on the 450R that died. Slow progress, but I'm teaching the owner. Either way, I'll have to post pics when we get around to putting the engine back together.
Sweet build there. 4 strokes add up quick when you start going through them. Anything that spins and reciprocates will see a lot of stress and will cost more money. Cams, valves, springs, timing chain, etc.
Take note that a long rod will put more stress on the piston rings and can potentially lead to ring float since it accelerates from and decelerates to TDC and BDC quicker. Your situation is worsened because you're going with a stroker. This can lead to blow by and heat the piston quite a bit more when pushed to higher RPM. I've only ever seen it with engines that are over-revved and destroyed as a result. Long rod = less wear on piston skirt during normal operation, more wear on piston rings and skirts (again, due to blow by) during more extreme operation. Of course, this is negligible unless you're looking to gain a few hundred more RPM reliably. In your case, with a long rod stroker, high duration cam, and intended high-rpm build, you're on the verge of falling into the category of those who need to factor that in.
The other factor for long rod engines is the clearance issues with high-duration cams. Since the piston dwells at TDC longer with a long rod, there is a higher chance for interference. I'd be leery about lowering the deck height. The guy that owns the 450R that I'm porting has the same cam you're using in his toolbox that he got from a guy that went through 2 valve jobs because of interference with the reduced deck height and that cam.
Of course, you can remove some of the material from the piston crown in that area and be safer, which I'd do if it was mine. This will give you an opportunity to alter the crown profile for more flow at higher RPM. EDIT: more flow and less reversion. This contradicts a certian individual's opinion from TRX450R.org when he says that there is no such thing as a drag or trail port for 4 strokes, only a good port and a bad port. However, I've come to realize that there are such differences and they can very much be altered.
I'll stop my little ramble unless you want to know more lol.
I'm porting the head on the 450R that died. Slow progress, but I'm teaching the owner. Either way, I'll have to post pics when we get around to putting the engine back together.
Sweet build there. 4 strokes add up quick when you start going through them. Anything that spins and reciprocates will see a lot of stress and will cost more money. Cams, valves, springs, timing chain, etc.
Take note that a long rod will put more stress on the piston rings and can potentially lead to ring float since it accelerates from and decelerates to TDC and BDC quicker. Your situation is worsened because you're going with a stroker. This can lead to blow by and heat the piston quite a bit more when pushed to higher RPM. I've only ever seen it with engines that are over-revved and destroyed as a result. Long rod = less wear on piston skirt during normal operation, more wear on piston rings and skirts (again, due to blow by) during more extreme operation. Of course, this is negligible unless you're looking to gain a few hundred more RPM reliably. In your case, with a long rod stroker, high duration cam, and intended high-rpm build, you're on the verge of falling into the category of those who need to factor that in.
The other factor for long rod engines is the clearance issues with high-duration cams. Since the piston dwells at TDC longer with a long rod, there is a higher chance for interference. I'd be leery about lowering the deck height. The guy that owns the 450R that I'm porting has the same cam you're using in his toolbox that he got from a guy that went through 2 valve jobs because of interference with the reduced deck height and that cam.
Of course, you can remove some of the material from the piston crown in that area and be safer, which I'd do if it was mine. This will give you an opportunity to alter the crown profile for more flow at higher RPM. EDIT: more flow and less reversion. This contradicts a certian individual's opinion from TRX450R.org when he says that there is no such thing as a drag or trail port for 4 strokes, only a good port and a bad port. However, I've come to realize that there are such differences and they can very much be altered.
I'll stop my little ramble unless you want to know more lol.
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As far as the crank goes this was used in a 533 motor for some time. I will be flaying the piston and checking squish and piston to valve clearance. I will be shooting for around .045 squish. The crank has a custom pin height so it can use 06+ trx pistons and crf pistons.
So it's time to update this thread. I ordered a monster exhaust, and dasa big filter kit. Falicon screwed me when they rebuilt the crank. Basically they couldn't give me the measurements of the crank with the custom pin height. Therefor I had no idea on how much to have the head decked. The entire motor is in Az and will be getting, cases trenched, assembled, and dynoed/jetted with my carb. I will update cost to this build after I get the bill.
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