Tors Kit, i have less power

Z

Zep604

New Member
Oct 26, 2012
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Long Island
www.liesndeceptionpaintball.com
A while ago i bought a blaster that had some work, big bore kit, oil block, no tors kit, jetted, crankshaft, a whole bunch. My friend had a briliant idea of first thing on a cold morning to slam the throttle and sent it threw a fence because the throttle "got stuck"

It was easyer then hearing him whine so i had the tors kit installed again.. only i wasnt expecting a huge power cut. When i first got it back the idle was l so low it wouldnt stay running.... When i finally got that it was still quick.. but not what it was.

I relize there not the fastest thing but mine was keeping up with a yfz450 , and now its not even close.

Dose the tors kit kill power, is there a way to tune it back up or is it time to take it off again n just replace the throttle cable once a year to be safe?
 
I think you have other issues. After you re-installed the TORS system,did you make sure that the thumb throttle is opening the carb slide all the way? Also make sure the stock thumb throttle "limiting screw" isn't turned in too far limiting the travel.


Time to get a tether.
 
i didn't actually check to see if the carb is opening all the way, i did check the limiting screw and that looks ok, its pritty far out 2, its almost like the throttle response is kinda bad. You have never herd of the tors cutting power tho?

and on a side note would it be worth me picking up the Haynes manual for it? i cannot find a wiring diagram any wear and i want to rewire the whole thing from inside the frame. Im an engineer so i can probably do without it but id rather not have to
 
Nmy understanding, is that the oil injection runs at 20 to 1 ratio. Someone correct me if I am wrong here.

And without the tors, many run a 32 to 1 ration.

20 to 1 ratio means, 20 percent gas, 80 percent oil ?

32- to 1, means 32 percent gas, 68 percent oil. ?

This would mean, that without the oil injection, that you would run a little leaner and a little more faster.

However, the differance would not be all that noticeable.

You might think about a compression check on it and see if its in spec. How long have you owned it ? as i think you mentioned it had a fresh top end, ect, when you first got it.

I have heard that the big bore kits, I asume you mean the 240cc kits ?? I have heard without them being ported and ect, they are not much faster than a stock blaster. But also the bigger strain on the crank for the bigger size, can reduce soem life in the motor. Its puhing a bigger size piston, wear may ensure sooner than a stock motor.

I own 3 blasters, oen stock with oil injection, 1 stock without and 1 with a fmf fatty and power core and a squish head and that one, is fast and rips, no comparison to the others.

But I can also tell a slight different from the two stock ones, one with the injection and one without. not a big differance, but I can tell a slight differance.

And before I put the squish head one, the one ust had the fmf fatty and power core two and I can tell the differance from just that also. not allot, but I can tell.

So, if you can check the compression, and see if you are a little on the low side. and if you recall was that big bore kit, was it ported and stuff ?

Cuz a few have mentioned on here, that without the port work, it was not faster than a stock blaster.


Sporty
 
Check your plug,check for fresh fuel,clean that carb, check fuel to oil mix is correct and mixed well. and verify the carb is opening all the way.
 
im pritty sure it was ported, but not positive. I still have the guys number i gto it from and he seemed cool with me calling back with questions so i will ask. As i said i have the oil block off and i am running 32-1 with golden spectrum.

I have work till 8am to 3am for the next 3 days but if i get a chance i am going to try and adjust the air mixture, clean the carb out and fresh gas mixture and see what happens..
 
Sporty the oil to fuel is a ratio, 20 parts fuel to 1 part oil (or 25 to 1, 32 to 1) normally measured in ounces.

ZEP, what all did you do to reinstall the TORS? If someone spent the money for all that engine work and it's making the power to hang with a 450, it looks like it would need a bigger carb. I'm wondering if you swapped carbs.
 
i didn't, the guy i bought it from im pretty sure did.. i just texted him and im gona try and have him email me everything he did.

It was quick. If i hit the gas sitting on it normally the front wheels would have no problem coming up a 2 or 3 feet, and i weigh 220.

I didn't actually install the tors kit, i had a guy that works in a bike shop do it. I was very new to ATV's and didn't really know what to do so i didn't take the chance messing it up. (prolly should have just tried it at this point anyway).

I know for sure it has the bigbore with another piston, oil block, tors was removed when i got it. I find it hard to belive but someone told me the disk brakes were a aftermarket, it has a hot cams crank shaft? , it was jetted, and thats all i know of for sure. I want to say it was ported but cannot remember for sure.. or if there was anything else.. the headers are after 2, not sure of the brand tho
 
Replacing the TORS would have shaken the carby up a little, maybe some crap has been stirred up in the carb and is blocking something.

I would be removing the carby and giving it a good clean and setting the float level.

While you are in there check the jets to see if their size relates to your mods.
 
the only thing you could really screw up when changing to a tors delete cap would be that your cable is out of adjustment. what is probably happening is that when you pin the throttle the slide is still hanging in the throat of the carb. you need to remove the carb with the cap and cable still attached and look through it while opening the throttle all the way. if the slide is hanging in the opening you need to tighten the cable until it lifts up out of the throat of the carb.

Did he install an idle screw in the side of the stock carb when doing the tors delete cap? if not you will have to use the cable to adjust the idle but that never works well and will result in hanging idles and constanly having to adjust the cable.

seeing how the tors was still on the quad, that would make your carb a stock carb
 
I agree with Scott, if all that was done was to reinstall the TORS back onto the OEM carb, the most likely problem is your slide isn't being opened all the way. If you do have a ported BBK, the 26mm carb was probably holding it back allot. Where did the parts come from to reinstall the TORS?
 
Sorry for the late responses, was working a haunted house all weekend. I am going to check the slide tonight, and clean out the carb. im going to put all fresh gas, clean the fuel lines, new plug, and see what happens. To adjust the idle there is a screw on top of the TORS kit i am supposed to use now. I am also going to replace the fuel line , you never know. Pin hole from when it got run threw a fence? worth replacing.. cant hurt
 
Just so its on the form i went to go clean the carb, and i notices a very small crack in the fuel line, you dont see it till you actually try n move the fuel line. havent tested it yet but it makes sence. I went out n bought a good rubber fuel line so that should fix the problem.. Thank you everyone for the advice, it did actually help
 
Zep604 said:
Sorry for the late responses, was working a haunted house all weekend. I am going to check the slide tonight, and clean out the carb. im going to put all fresh gas, clean the fuel lines, new plug, and see what happens. To adjust the idle there is a screw on top of the TORS kit i am supposed to use now. I am also going to replace the fuel line , you never know. Pin hole from when it got run threw a fence? worth replacing.. cant hurt
Click to expand...

A new fuel line is not going to fix the problem of power loss.

When you have cleaned out the carb and adjusted the float level, before you put the carb back on do a leak down test.

This may help.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS big screw under seat on top of unit. No TORS brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
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