Throttle cable routing

noid

New Member
Jun 13, 2008
180
5
23
So I removed tors using the motion pro kit (everything went well). The only thing is that I am looking at page 2-19 and it seems that I have everything routed correctly but the cable hangs down and touches the exhaust, I am worried when the exhaust gets hot it will just melt the cable shielding.

What do you guys think?

Pictures:

IMG_1147.jpg

IMG_1149.jpg

IMG_1150.jpg
 
all cables/wires need to go over the frame cross bar, not under it like you have it
(except the clutch cable)
that will keep it off the pipe, or it will burn thru, and start sticking
 
all cables/wires need to go over the frame cross bar, not under it like you have it
(except the clutch cable)
that will keep it off the pipe, or it will burn thru, and start sticking

How do you mean? When you say frame cross bar do you mean the thing thats holding the headlight?


I think the problem may be that its currently at arrow 1 and it needs to be at arrow 2 maybe?

Untitled.jpg
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that's what awk was saying (at least i think!!!) is that it needs to go between the tank and that cross bar
 
yes, above the cross bar like arrow #2,
on the shifter side of the steering stem
 
To confirm after going through #2 it still needs to go through #3 right?

Picture:
Untitled2.jpg
 
might be a bit tight goin through 2 and 3

it might be tight, by design ???, it's not supposed to move, and gets
ty-rapped onto the cross frame there, or the carb would surge everytime the bars are cranked
thats where every blaster i've ever owned/worked on goes

#9........................

2ziu5hf.jpg
 
If you zip-tied your throttle cable to the crossbar then you would get the opposite wouldn't you? If you crank the bars and the rubber portion cant migrate with it but the inner cable can, then that's when you would have surges. No?

Or is the idea that all the cable slack is supposed to be pulled towards the bars after the ziptie?

This would be great if someone could take a picture from the same angle I did of their setup.
 
There should just enough slack in the adjustment of the cable, that turning the bars causes little or no increace of idle revs.

If you have fitted an aftermarket idle screw when you removed the TORS, there should be no increase in idle, if you have the slack adjusted correctly.