Stock needle or not?
- Thread starter Blasturd
- Start date
So should i get a stock needle and rejet the bike to that needle, or just jet it with the current needle thats in it?
It just seems as the main jet is too large for the few mods that have been done, ive done leak down test and all is well so it leads me to believe the only other reason it would be taking such a large main is because it has a larger needle than stock.
It just seems as the main jet is too large for the few mods that have been done, ive done leak down test and all is well so it leads me to believe the only other reason it would be taking such a large main is because it has a larger needle than stock.
Get tha t blue needle out and use it to clean the wax from your ears, the only thing thing they are good for!
then change the main smaller. and how does the jet "seem" to big? it either is or isnt confirmed by plug chops
he said it was NOT blue silly
There is no blue needle i said it looks like stainless. But it does not have a single marking so its gotta be aftermarket.
Where can i get a stock needle?
^^^^ yep. The main jet and needle don't have a lot of affect on each other as the needle determines fuel flow up to 3/4 throttle and main jet determines fuel after that. If the plug chop on the main jet shows it is good than the needle has nothing to do with that.
There is no "AIR LEAK" It held 8psi for 5 minutes then i took the tester off i have checked it twice now, its tighter than a ticks ass. The bike runs good with a 290 main but if i get down to a 280 it starts to bog and every jet size below the 280 it just gets worse so i know that the 300 isnt too fat.
there could be an air leak outside of the motor.
per say if your airbox boot wasnt sealed, thats an air leak
or carb boot
are these genuine mikuni jets?
per say if your airbox boot wasnt sealed, thats an air leak
or carb boot
are these genuine mikuni jets?
Or a leak on the exhaust side. Check the exhaust over, make sure it hasn't been cut open and gutted. I leak tested my motor and it was perfect, had to take the carb in and out once and caused an airleak on the reed boot. If you have that large of a main there has to be excess air flow somewhere.
Not wishing to insult your intelligence, but is this the way that you performed the plug chop?
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
if i said the bike bogs with a 280 main we already know that its gonna take a larger main based upon how it runs and main jets go up in increments of 10 so im 2 jet sizes above where it bogged i plug chopped it with the 290 and it was slightly lean so i fattened it up one jet size, id rather be rich and play it safe, but whether its 280 290 or 300 all 3 are big for a lightly modded blaster.
