Please Help !!03 Blaster Starting Problems...

Ok, I have a 250 & 260 main jet... I will pick up a 270 & 280...

But for the keeping me sane perpose I will put back in the 250

I will dig back into the wires, in hopes to find the yellow w black strip in the Carb area...
add a ground and splice together... I will let you guys know how it turns out...

What is crazy I thought I had it complete since I got it to start and idle...
 
Just to make sure can someone tell where the ground (black) Wire is secured.. It's in the rear with a eye loop... I think it's supose to be grounded by the coil... if this is true, then this maybe my first fix.
 
OIFIII said:
Just to make sure can someone tell where the ground (black) Wire is secured.. It's in the rear with a eye loop... I think it's supose to be grounded by the coil... if this is true, then this maybe my first fix.
Click to expand...

yes, the solid black wire with the eyelet gets grounded under the coil bolt, and should not have even started if that was disconnected
be sure to clean any paint off, to make a good bare metal ground
 
UPDATE.....

So I went through all the wires. soldered all connecting wires, re-taped and test with a mutli-meter... Now, for the TORS yellow w/stripe coming from the brain, is spliced with a ground wire... tested the ground with the mutli-meter to ensure good ground.

with the orginal main jet in (230) I connected all the wires and started the bike. It idled as long as I wanted it to.. I tested the the TORS connection... by loosing the ground wire the bike stop running, reconnected, first kick back to a idle... this tells me the TORS system is off the table...

Now, if I hit the gas during the idle is just boggs down, I can slowly roll up the throttle and still bogs...

Do you guys think it a air leak? should I go even bigger on the jet? twice I looked down and fuel was coming out of the drain hose... but when I had it idleing no fuel dripping...

So, anything else I should try on the Carb? float? I just have the hole covered from the oil injector what should I used to ensure that is totally sealed up?

as always thanks much for your input !!! I have to be close!!
 
I'm not sure where you're getting the yellow wire connects to the ground wire ???
is that what the 03+ tors removal link i posted twice now shows ???

i thought it shows both "sets" of wires coming out of the brain, connecting together, each spliced as a pair as they exit the brain ?

the 2 that went to the throttle switch get spliced together,
the 2 that went to the carb get connected together,
right outside of the brain, not back at the carb, not at the throttle, not to ground, right as they come out of the brain connected as pairs. period.
 
AWK - take a look at the wireing diagram for 03+ pg 75.. the TORS is a sigle wire with two switches... I totally elimitate 1 switch since that comes off the main leg. The second switch is "Closed" by grounding the wires spliced together...

please let me know what you see..
 
i remember spending hours looking for the wrong problems, my quad would unpredictabley bog out, start , then not start. idle, then not idle....

it just so happened that i had accidently burned some tape off some loose wires and they were touching each other every now and then.... after i retaped it, problem solved,
sometimes it is the most obvious make sure the wires on the entire bike are taped.

sometimes a simple answer is what you need, if not, you got all these other guys :p
 
Shadow... yep that is why I went through it all again.. soldered, taped and check with a multi-meter... while idleing i have high and headlights, checked rear tail light wires also for voltage, pressing the brake front and back. unless I missed something...
 
OIFIII said:
YFS200 Service Repair Manual (LIT-11616-07-20) - 1988-2006

pg 75
Click to expand...

i'm not looking at any wiring diagrams or manuals, i'm looking at the pics i posted twice now, they have been used by countless members on here with complete success, each and every time, zero fail rate
you must splice both sets of wires as the come out of the tors/cdi box

why must you insist on re-inventing the wheel ?

splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
splice both sets of wires as the come out of the brain
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AWK - I dont have a TORS unit or the wires that came from it. I can add another set from the main wire and see if that works.. ??? I rather be riding that trying to be a spark chaser... but the wires your splicing from the cdi are a ground wire right??
 
OIFIII said:
AWK - I dont have a TORS unit or the wires that came from it. I can add another set from the main wire and see if that works.. ??? I rather be riding that trying to be a spark chaser... but the wires your splicing from the cdi are a ground wire right??
Click to expand...

i explained this way above..............

on the 03+ blasters, the tors unit is part of the cdi, like...it is actually inside the cdi, not a seperate tors brain like the 88-02's
the cdi.tors unit is where the 2 sets of wires come out of and go to the carb and throttle switch, and i've never done an 03+ tors delete,
so i don't knowcolors offhand
just follow the pics and thread i posted above, splice the 2 sets of wires shown in the pics, whatever color it shows
 
AWK - I got it bro, I understand what you are saying; However on the 03 + the CDI has only 1 wire (yellow w/black strip) coming from it that is it... period.. nothing else..

Since all the black wire are grounds and clustered in a couple of groups and secured to the frame the 2 splices your refering to a yellow w/black strip & a Black w/white strip on 02 and older models.. 03+ has the main run going to the throttle microswitch, and off that leg is a switch to the Carb...

My only guess is to make another run on main leg with a ground and see if that works..

Not trying to be pain...take a look at pg 75 so you dont think Im on crack....
 
ok, you are not on crack, i was mistaken, as i never felt the need to read the DIY, just link you to it.
it does in fact say there are 2 connections that need cut and spliced, one yellow to black under the hood, right outside the cdi, and the other at the carb, same color wires, essentially making a complete, spliced loop for the whole circut

if you have spliced the 2 wires shown at the cdi, and the same color set of wires at the carb, i would now agree you have taken the tors "off the table" as you put it

taken right from the 03+ tors removal DIY link i posted above ...............

So back to the TORS. Now that you have BOTH connectors unplugged you will need to cut them off (connectors on ECU side not carb and throttle side)

You will have two wires (black and yellow) left with no connector. one set under hood, one set under seat. Once again, make sure you have cut the connectors on ECU side not carb and throttle side.

Lastly, strip the ends of the wires and splice the yellow and black wires together where they have been cut. (you must splice both sets).

is this exactly what you have done ?????
 
Last edited:
Guys I went out and bought another harness on ebay... long story, short this harness was not as discribed so, a little wiring had to be done, but I got to see what wires were missing and soldered those in... and yes, after splicing both ends, she fired up and revs..

I only hit throttle once to know all was well, cut it off and now to figure what Jet is needed since I have a K&N filter and FMF fatty w/ core two everything else is stock

Thanks Again!
 
OIFIII said:
Guys I went out and bought another harness on ebay... long story, short this harness was not as discribed so, a little wiring had to be done, but I got to see what wires were missing and soldered those in... and yes, after splicing both ends, she fired up and revs..

I only hit throttle once to know all was well, cut it off and now to figure what Jet is needed since I have a K&N filter and FMF fatty w/ core two everything else is stock

Thanks Again!
Click to expand...

WOW, just getting caught up on this thread, so the whole problem was the harness didn't have some of the wiring for the tors? Go figure! I will also be doing the 03+ spilicing on the 05!

Glad it's running! Plug chop that mutha!
 
OK PART II --- I took her out for a test ride... 1st gear bogs at the start.. no bottom end... after a few revs sounds like I'm back in action...then bogs, then takes off like a rocket.. 2-3 as longs as the rpms are up mid range is good, but full throttle bogs out... as in 4th no top end... I did put in a 260 main jet and took off the lid.. would this because It's getting too much fuel?? Im runing 32:1 mix.. only mods are FMF Fatty and K&N Fileter lid off..

What do you think... I thought at first my tors is coming back to haunt me but I didnt get this far before...

As always.. any help is very appreciated..
 
that 260 is too small for that FMF,
where is your airscrew set at ??? play with it in 1/4th turn increments in and out between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns, allow 30 seconds between each turn for the rpm's to react to the new setting, find the highest rpm setting, then fine tune at 1/8th turns for clean revs past 1/4 throttle
needle clip on middle setting,
270-290 main
report back
 
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